Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

It's not freezing cold outside so making use of the table saw. Probaly all I'll get done on the ewave today. Need to still rip 4 grill surrounds and cut some plates for the cross-overs.Too many projects,. too cold in winter, too busy in summer. :)
 
Hi there audio guru's!

This is Mark. Few years ago I own a good pair of JBL 4425., but I have no choice but to sell it that time since I need money and I still have my JBL L-100 century.

After few years, I'm missing the sound of the 4425's.

So a week or two ago. I looked for my JBL 2416H-1 compression drivers and JBL D130f 15" full range speakers on our storage. I tested them and they are working good.

Now... I want to make a speaker out of those drivers.

So I searched searched and searched until I reached this great forum.

So for almost a week I back read most of the pages on this thread. (im not yet finished until now)

I'm impressed on how dedicated are the Guru's sharing their knowledge and making all the efforts to make test and shootouts.

Too bad as I've read Mr. Zilch already passed away.

I hope there's still someone out there who can help me with my project.

I just want to ask the following:

1) Do you think I can implement the idea of econowave using the D130 and 2416H drivers?

If so..,

2) Please recommended waveguide type (horn) for jbl 2416H

2) Please suggest a best suit crossover schematic for these drivers.

D130F is a fullrange 8 ohm version / 15" with more than 100db sensitivity (i think) rated at 25W

2416H is 8 ohms with around 100db or more sensitivity / 50W /

TIA Everyone! :)
 
Hi there audio guru's!

This is Mark. Few years ago I own a good pair of JBL 4425., but I have no choice but to sell it that time since I need money and I still have my JBL L-100 century.

After few years, I'm missing the sound of the 4425's.

So a week or two ago. I looked for my JBL 2416H-1 compression drivers and JBL D130f 15" full range speakers on our storage. I tested them and they are working good.

Now... I want to make a speaker out of those drivers.

So I searched searched and searched until I reached this great forum.

So for almost a week I back read most of the pages on this thread. (im not yet finished until now)

I'm impressed on how dedicated are the Guru's sharing their knowledge and making all the efforts to make test and shootouts.

Too bad as I've read Mr. Zilch already passed away.

I hope there's still someone out there who can help me with my project.

I just want to ask the following:

1) Do you think I can implement the idea of econowave using the D130 and 2416H drivers?

If so..,

2) Please recommended waveguide type (horn) for jbl 2416H

2) Please suggest a best suit crossover schematic for these drivers.

D130F is a fullrange 8 ohm version / 15" with more than 100db sensitivity (i think) rated at 25W

2416H is 8 ohms with around 100db or more sensitivity / 50W /

TIA Everyone! :)

Hi Mark!

EconoWave is also about "affordability".

So I have to ask ( before recommending anything );

Where do you live & ( as a consequence ) how is your access to in-expensive parts ?

:)
 
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Hi Mark!

EconoWave is also about "affordability".

So I have to ask ( before recommending anything );

Where do you live & ( as a consequence ) how is your access to in-expensive parts ?

:)

Hi EarlK!

Thanks for your reply!

Great if EconoWave is for affordable great sound.

I'm from Manila, Philippines.

I'm not sure if the inexpensive parts there are inexpensive here :)

There's plenty of imports and locally made drivers here but I'm not sure about the quality and specs.
I think it's much expensive to buy and test each one since most of the time we can't return/change item.

So in my case, since I have these drivers already, it will be much economicable for me to use these than buy a new one. :)
 
Well I hate how the bed liner stuff rolled out. Wanted textured came out just lumpy. Had a nice texture then cured overnight and then yuck.Stuff is durable though. Gonna be sanding this off for hours. So new plan is oak veneer. Have just enough This cabinet is turning into a project all by itself.
 
Collet was loose apparently. Gouged the hell out of the front. I don't think they can be salvaged. I think I'm going to go with modular design. Separate cabinets . Thinking a 2 car ported sub cabinets and 2 smaller cabinets that hold a 6x9. The sub cabinet something like 1.5 cuft portedto 35 hz or so.
Thinking this 12" one. Then just redo the baffle to recess the driver a bit.
http://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-e-12sp-12-single-vented-box-speaker-cabinet--260-630
and this 6x9 cabinet.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-6...closure-pair-charcoal/4845857.p?skuId=4845857


Wish I had better wood working skills. I can modify a cabinet. but never been able to build a good box though.
 
Collet was loose apparently. Gouged the hell out of the front. I don't think they can be salvaged. I think I'm going to go with modular design. Separate cabinets . Thinking a 2 car ported sub cabinets and 2 smaller cabinets that hold a 6x9. The sub cabinet something like 1.5 cuft portedto 35 hz or so.
Thinking this 12" one. Then just redo the baffle to recess the driver a bit.
http://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-e-12sp-12-single-vented-box-speaker-cabinet--260-630
and this 6x9 cabinet.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-6...closure-pair-charcoal/4845857.p?skuId=4845857


Wish I had better wood working skills. I can modify a cabinet. but never been able to build a good box though.
Remember that the mid/woof must have sufficient margin at ca 2kc or higher to be usable with the recommended compression drivers, regardless of the LF capability. If the crossover region doesn't stay clean at expected drive levels, the midrange is not going to sound good.
 
Yeah useing the dayton dc250-8 10" woofer. It's not a subwoofer. The subwoofer cabinet would be used as a ported speaker cabinet. Gotta put the driver in something and that will do the job and is inexpensive.
 
Got the 2 goldwood subwoofer boxes. Mocked up the cabinets with driver and compression horn. One word fugly. Looks like carpet covered mess
Wife said it looked like wall-e the robot.:biggrin:


fb2a767b5bf4ce5612353b82ed4e40b7.jpg

Imagine this covered in black carpet. Not worth sending the sub cabinets back I'll find a home for them.
Well time to go to the home center for some plywood.
 
Well we're getting there. 3/4 oak ply. Looks ok.
Tommorow cut out the hole for the woofer and horn. The do the top and bottom.
13.5" W x 22 " T x11.75" deep. 1 4x4 sheet and a couple scrap pieces for the back.
 

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Hi everybody!
I need help with a crossover. I repeated Econowave by coreyk78 post #11720:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...conowave-speaker.150939/page-586#post-3990313
and now I don`t know which crossover will better for me? What You can say about Critesspeakers CS-1.5 crossover:
http://www.critesspeakers.com/crites-cs-1-speaker-project.html

Undoubtably, the Crites CS-1.5 crossover is the best choice if one builds a Crites CS-1.5 .

But that's not what you built.

You appear to have built a copy of coreyk78's work / therefore I suggest you continue down that choosen path and use whatever crossover he used ( unless he was ultimately unhappy with his choice ?? ) .

:)
 
But that's not what you built.

You appear to have built a copy of coreyk78's work / therefore I suggest you continue down that choosen path and use whatever crossover he used ( unless he was ultimately unhappy with his choice ?? ) .

:)
Yes, I tried to contact with coreyk78, but he does not answer. And now I do not know what I should do
 
Yes, I tried to contact with coreyk78, but he does not answer. And now I do not know what I should do
According to the info I read in other posts ( after the post that you linked into ) he used the High Sensitivity version of the crossover .

So this is the one he used ;

HiSens XO Schematic B.jpg

I recommend building it up and going from there .
- Remember, one can directly add capacitors together ( paralleled ) to get a new value .
- Plus one can string coils ( inductors ) in series to directly add their values .

If there's not enough bass ( when compared to mids coming from the woofer ) then use the following < than 95db version of the crossover and consider increasing it's coil size.
from the stock 1.5mH coil to say, in-between 2.5 to 3.5mH ( while keeping the top end true to the < 95db schematic ) .
- You can increase the stock 1.5mH to 3.0mH simply by taking your existing pair of 1.5mH coils and running them in series .
- Orient the second coil at a right angle to the first ( & about 4" from the end of the first coil ).

So this one then ;

JackGiff_-95_crossoverschematic.png


:)
 
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+1 Earl. They got the crossover done right early on. I've used the stock crossover in 6 different designs but this last pair I'm switching over to the MiniDSP but I have the extra amps to do that.
 
According to the info I read in other posts ( after the post that you linked into ) he used the High Sensitivity version of the crossover .

So this is the one he used ;

View attachment 868156

I recommend building it up and going from there .
- Remember, one can directly add capacitors together ( paralleled ) to get a new value .
- Plus one can string coils ( inductors ) in series to directly add their values .
Thank you for the crossover scheme. But I am a newbie and it`s will my first speakers. I would be grateful if anyone upload photos of crossover. I don`t know which Crossover Components I need?
 
Thank you for the crossover scheme. But I am a newbie and it`s will my first speakers. I would be grateful if anyone upload photos of crossover. I don`t know which Crossover Components I need?
I can't really find a photo for either of the 2 JackGiff crossovers ( previously displayed ) showing them as assembled , but here's the next best thing.
- It's an early Zilch crossover / though it's clearly a simple evolution of the standard JackGiff type ( which preceded it by a couple of years ) .
- While a few of the component parts are different, this network uses the exact same layout ( topology ) / so use it as a "guideline" ( as to how to layout & then wire-up your network ).

- Just change the parts values to match whatever JackGiff crossover you decide to use .

post-24405-13819830323992.jpg


:)

PS; I recommend that you create your own shopping list which is called a Bill of Materials ( BOM ),
> along the lines of the following ( created by Zilch in 2010, for the network displayed within this post ).

attachment.php
 
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