Technics SL1300MK2 vs SL-D2

Hi,
I just restored a sl1300 to its former glory as an upgrade from my D2. Funny thing is, it doesn't seam like an upgrade at all. I replaced the D2 with the 1300 in exactly the same setup, even switched headshells. The 1300 starts to rumble at volume above 1/4 the D2 did not ever rumble at any volume. When I lift the 1300 (heavy!) while playing the rumble disappears. What can I do? It's the first table to rumble in this setup and by far the most sophisticated one.
 
Well, first off, the Sl-D2 actually was a little better then the 1300 when new in terms of rumble, -75 dB for the D2 vs -73 dB for the 1300. If you are getting the rumble to go away by lifting the turntable what is clearly happening is the turntable is interacting with the surface it's on. Vibration is the cause but right now you don't know from where. The turntable itself could be producing the vibrations that travel through the base and then bounce back up into the turntable producing the rumble or it could be traveling through the surface its on into the turntable. Another factor that could be in play is the cartridge / tonearm resonance. If the combination of the two produces a resonant frequency in the wrong range, it could lead to increased sensitivity to this.

Are the two using the same cartridge? The two do have different arms, so what could adversely affect one could be completely benign in the other.

Can you try a different location that will put the turntable on a different surface to see if that helps?

Shelly_D
 
I,ve put a pillow under the unit and all rumble is gone. It definitely has to do with acoustic feedback. Thing is NO other turntable, all cheaper ones, have this problem. I now how to solve it, it's just that I can't believe that there's nothing with the unit itself. My guess is the damping of the platter/arm section inside the chassis has a problem. When I press the platter lightly it already touches the chassis.
View media item 9651
 
:boring:
When I press the platter lightly it already touches the chassis.

If it`s bottoming out that quickly, I think you need to adjust your platters` suspension. The SL1300mk2 has a double suspension so you`ll have to adjust the suspension springs on the bottom of the turntable. With the dustcover in place, lock your tonearm, take your headshell off and flip the turntable over on that pillow you got handy and you`ll see on the bottom near each of the feet a hole with a spring and a nut down inside the spring. You`ll need to go clockwise on the nuts to raise the platter. You will need a 7mm deep well socket to get down in there. Give each one a turn and flip the turntable back over to see if you accomplished anything. If not, repeat the process and it will raise the platter. I try to get it so the platter is halfway between it`s upper and lower limit`s. Also try and get as level as possible. If it`s level now and not bottomed out on any of the 4 springs, then by adjusting each suspension spring equal turns, it should stay level as you adjust it up. Good luck. If this works, you should no longer need your pillow, except for sleeping and dreaming of your SL1300mk2 playing sweet music and no rumble !! :boring:
 
Mine doesn't do that at all - never has. In fact, I'm often amazed at how much air I can excite in the room without any feedback whatsoever.

FYI - the DV10x5 is a match made in heaven for this tt.
 
:boring:

If it`s bottoming out that quickly, I think you need to adjust your platters` suspension. The SL1300mk2 has a double suspension so you`ll have to adjust the suspension springs on the bottom of the turntable. With the dustcover in place, lock your tonearm, take your headshell off and flip the turntable over on that pillow you got handy and you`ll see on the bottom near each of the feet a hole with a spring and a nut down inside the spring. You`ll need to go clockwise on the nuts to raise the platter. You will need a 7mm deep well socket to get down in there. Give each one a turn and flip the turntable back over to see if you accomplished anything. If not, repeat the process and it will raise the platter. I try to get it so the platter is halfway between it`s upper and lower limit`s. Also try and get as level as possible. If it`s level now and not bottomed out on any of the 4 springs, then by adjusting each suspension spring equal turns, it should stay level as you adjust it up. Good luck. If this works, you should no longer need your pillow, except for sleeping and dreaming of your SL1300mk2 playing sweet music and no rumble !! :boring:

Don't forget to remove the platter before you flip the table over.

John
 
So I've managed to diagnose the problem: the audio insulation springs have worn out, the adjustment screws are turned in all the way and
the turntable base still touches main base. Probably due to transport without locking the unit.
Partnumbers:
SFGA132-01 Rubber insulator: these are broken on all 4
SFQH132-01 Spring insulator: worn out.

Any chance of finding them or an other fix?

Elevating the unit works only half as the turntable base rests on the main base, so there only is insulation from the feet, and they don't do the best job alone...
 
Your best bet is a parts unit. The fact that the 13, 14 and 1500 MK 2 have a cuing issue that affects nearly all examples of the table means that parts unis are occasionally available cheap or are being parted out on eBay or Organ Donor Parts, an AK sponsor.

When you find a turntable being parted out, it pays to ask whether the seller has the parts you're looking for but hasn't listed them.

John
 
I'm asked to repair 2 SL-1700MK2, does anyone know if this unit also has the cuing issue as both units lift doesnt work...

No, the cuing problem mentioned is restricted to the SL-1300 MK2, 1400 MK2 and 1500MK2.

John
 
So the cuing on the sl1700mk2 should be an easy fix? Both units have a problem with the cueing.

I don't recall you mentioning the nature of the cuing problem on this particular SL-1700MK2 but there are three possible sources for the problem. One is the aforementioned belt failure. This is an easy fix and by far the most common problem. The second is a lack of damping fluid in the cuing piston. This is the easiest fix. The third is a cracked gear for the timing motor. This is the most difficult fix but it's not that hard. (Bear in mind that it could be all three.) We need more information.

John
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info, I will dig into the issue and come back with more info, first I'll try to tackle the damping problem on the SL1300, I'd love to see this one fully functional.
 
Back
Top Bottom