Too bad, I though it could be useful for those in need to deal with that board.dly, this video is going to greatly feed the myth that the Dolby board on these units is the cause of all channel drop issues on these models.
Although it's a bit long, it's a very well produced video and it was very nice of him to reference my AK posts on Dolby board repair. The image you see above as the background for his video is from my AK post.
That said, he made the classic mistake of jumping right to the Dolby board. He never verified that the Dolby board was the cause of the signal drop. Late production units with the factory wire ribbon cables, like that one, are much less likely to have Dolby issues. All of the work he did there may have been unnecessary. Also, if you do need to rebuild the board, it's not necessary to remove the Dolby switch. With a little patience you can resolder the pass-throughs under it with the switch on the board.
Sadly, this video is going to greatly feed the myth that the Dolby board on these units is the cause of all channel drop issues on these models.
- Pete
Same troubleshooting and repair methodology apply to the QRX 8001 and QRX 9001 quad units as well ... more or less anyway.
Only thing I'd add is, the quad units have the push button switches sandwiched between a couple boards, and the only way to clean them right is to break down the stack ... and half the battle is getting that far, so you might as well pin the pass throughs while you're there.
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If you're still auditioning desoldering tools, I'm really liking the Jameco BenchPro SA6R. That's conservatively rated at 30 watts, but mine measures out at 42. Plenty of heat, good recovery, and I seldom need to go more than one click of the button for a clean joint. I went with the trusty old RatShack for years, but this runs rings around that, especially for getting into tight spots.
http://www.jameco.com/z/SA6-R-11-Long-UL-Listed-Electric-Desolder-Pump-Blue-_2168261.html
How do you go about cleaning out the solder in that unit while using it hot?