Dennis Murphy Pioneer SP-BS22-LR DIY Modifications

[pablo1gr]

I guess my question really is L2 pin 2 at D2,29 what does that conects to? Pin 1 goes to IN+ and C3 pin 1 goes to D4,29 and that is conected to IN+ as well, so how does L2 connects to L1? Sorry I dont have acces to a radioshack pcb board I have a grid style board and Its my first time doing a circuite, I figure where ground and everything elese goes but i dont get where L1and L2 conect and where to cennect L2 #2 pin.

 

[drew_t]

^ Review photo #11 and #12 and the paragraphs following them in post #3. You connect L2 and L1 when you "sandwich" the old board and the new board. "Sandwich the two boards together, with the 1/8” nylon spacers between them. Doing so will require the long inductor L2 lead [shown in photo #12] to pass through the IN+ via on the original crossover board. Solder this lead to the bottom side of the via and then trim the excess lead as short as possible. Connect the IN+ and IN- leads to the appropriate terminals on the terminal cup."

Be aware the Radio Shack board layout relies on the short copper strips that connect some of the holes. For example, D2,29 and D4,29 are on the same copper strip. You will need to do something to physically create these connections if they don't exist on the grid board you are using.

 

[pablo1gr]

^ Review photo #11 and #12 and the paragraphs following them in post #3. You connect L2 and L1 when you "sandwich" the old board and the new board. "Sandwich the two boards together, with the 1/8” nylon spacers between them. Doing so will require the long inductor L2 lead [shown in photo #12] to pass through the IN+ via on the original crossover board. Solder this lead to the bottom side of the via and then trim the excess lead as short as possible. Connect the IN+ and IN- leads to the appropriate terminals on the terminal cup."

Be aware the Radio Shack board layout relies on the short copper strips that connect some of the holes. For example, D2,29 and D4,29 are on the same copper strip. You will need to do something to physically create these connections if they don't exist on the grid board you are using.

Thanks for your replay, I think I undestand now, L2 pin2 conects at D2-29 with C3 pin1 at D4-29 and the IN+ at D3-29. That is what got me confuse bot ends seam to be solder to positive terminals creating a short but I can se now that IN+ on the vias just servs to conect L1 to L2 and the IN+ gets move to new radioshack pcb. Did I get it correct? I think I made it more complicated that it really is

 

[MCM_Fan]

Thanks for your replay, I think I undestand now, L2 pin2 conects at D2-29 with C3 pin1 at D4-29 and the IN+ at D3-29. That is what got me confuse bot ends seam to be solder to positive terminals creating a short but I can se now that IN+ on the vias just servs to conect L1 to L2 and the IN+ gets move to new radioshack pcb. Did I get it correct? I think I made it more complicated that it really is

If it will help clear up your confusion, here is a photo of the back of one of the Radio Shack perf boards with the red jumper wires soldered in place (no components mounted on the board):

And here's some more info on the connection of the IN+ lead:

As shown in the schematic and described in the text, that is the original lead that connects directly to the + input terminal on the speaker cup. It does not connect to the original crossover PCB at any location. It connects directly from the + input terminal on the speaker cup to location D3,29 on the Radio Shack perf board, as shown in Table 4.

As shown in Photos 6 and 7, there is no wire connected to the IN+ via on the original crossover PCB. Here is the text that accompanies those photos:

"You will also need to remove the IN+ lead (red wire) from the PCB and pull it apart from the IN- lead. Set it aside for reuse.

At this point, the only items remaining attached to the original crossover PCB are L1, R1 the W+/W- leads and the IN- lead."

And, here's a photo that shows that wire connected between the speaker cup and the Radio Shack perf board:

Hope that clears up any confusion.

 

[restorer-john]

What a fantastic thread MCM_Fan! Several years down the track you are still committed to helping others.

I applaud you, well done.

 

[pablo1gr]

If it will help clear up your confusion, here is a photo of the back of one of the Radio Shack perf boards with the red jumper wires soldered in place (no components mounted on the board):

And here's some more info on the connection of the IN+ lead:

As shown in the schematic and described in the text, that is the original lead that connects directly to the + input terminal on the speaker cup. It does not connect to the original crossover PCB at any location. It connects directly from the + input terminal on the speaker cup to location D3,29 on the Radio Shack perf board, as shown in Table 4.

As shown in Photos 6 and 7, there is no wire connected to the IN+ via on the original crossover PCB. Here is the text that accompanies those photos:

"You will also need to remove the IN+ lead (red wire) from the PCB and pull it apart from the IN- lead. Set it aside for reuse.

At this point, the only items remaining attached to the original crossover PCB are L1, R1 the W+/W- leads and the IN- lead."

And, here's a photo that shows that wire connected between the speaker cup and the Radio Shack perf board:

Hope that clears up any confusion.

Thamk you so much it certanly did. I can wait to heare this babys

 

[pablo1gr]

If it will help clear up your confusion, here is a photo of the back of one of the Radio Shack perf boards with the red jumper wires soldered in place (no components mounted on the board):

And here's some more info on the connection of the IN+ lead:

As shown in the schematic and described in the text, that is the original lead that connects directly to the + input terminal on the speaker cup. It does not connect to the original crossover PCB at any location. It connects directly from the + input terminal on the speaker cup to location D3,29 on the Radio Shack perf board, as shown in Table 4.

As shown in Photos 6 and 7, there is no wire connected to the IN+ via on the original crossover PCB. Here is the text that accompanies those photos:

"You will also need to remove the IN+ lead (red wire) from the PCB and pull it apart from the IN- lead. Set it aside for reuse.

At this point, the only items remaining attached to the original crossover PCB are L1, R1 the W+/W- leads and the IN- lead."

And, here's a photo that shows that wire connected between the speaker cup and the Radio Shack perf board:

Hope that clears up any confusion.

Thank you so much. It clear a lot of my confusion. Cant wait to hook up this bad boys.

 

[pablo1gr]

Ok Im happy to report back and say that the mod was a complete success, everithing worked , Im trying to find out how to post the pictures of my work, as soon as I find out Ill be posting some

 

[pablo1gr]

I drew the place for the components first

This is the back of my board, I skipped the jumper wired and use the leads of the components to conect them





L2 conected to IN+


The two board put together




I didn't have washers so use a pize of hot glu stick, I cut it to size a ran the screw in the middle, it's not glamorus but it work. Its not as clean as I have wanted it bit for being my first circuit board im happy, I hooked everything up and it sunds good, less sharp, more detait and full body but I have to say, I did a comparasion of the moded and unmoded one. I was leastening to grandma's hand by Livingston Tylor on chesky records and the finger snaping is very subtle like its hard to hear as opese to being very audible almost in your face with the unmoded speaker, there passages like at 0:43 that the sound its just like a little clic and sounds nothing like a finger snap, on the non moded you can hear the snap on the back ground. On this particular song I like the non moded version but for everithing else I like the moded one, on vocalasthe un-moded sound like in a box or empty room whe the moded one sounds very present and full body. Im happy with what I got, it was a bit challeging but you guys help me a lot. Thank you.

 

[pablo1gr]

Im experiencing some port chuffing after the mod is this normal? Did i do somthing wrong? How can I stop it?

 

[drew_t]

Fry's has these for $68/pair this week with a promo code.

Now $59 . . . they're blowing these things out, I guess.

 

[nfafan]

Now $59 . . . they're blowing these things out, I guess.

Pretty sure for web-ordered local pick up only, no delivery beyond 50 miles of a local Frys.

 

[lukiedog]

Looks like Dennis Murphy is selling the modified center channels for $129 + shipping:

http://philharmonicaudio.com/

 

[keeif]

Hi!

I'm interested in performing this mod but the original pictures are no longer displaying. Any chance you'll be reuploading them? Imgur is a good alternative hosting site if you need it.

 

[Rockyhill]

Not to be a buzz kill on this thread but I've had these stock for 6 months on two amps. I see no need to mod. But that's just me.

 

[keeif]

I found the thread and pictures were archived on archive.is, here: https://archive.is/LK3OQ

 

[MCM_Fan]

I found the thread and pictures were archived on archive.is, here: https://archive.is/LK3OQ

Cool, thanks for posting that. I have a new photo hosting account at postimg.org. I've had it since last September when Photobucket went down without warning for a week. So, that's not a problem. The problem is all my posts in this thread are over a month old. So, the edit function has been disabled. I'd love to go back and edit all my posts in this thread (and others) to update the links to the images to preserve this thread in its original context.

 

[keeif]

Ah - that's a shame. Good to hear a response from you though. And nice job on the writeup and thanks for sharing!

 

[MCM_Fan]

Ah - that's a shame. Good to hear a response from you though. And nice job on the writeup and thanks for sharing!

I'm going to contact the site moderators and see if there is any way I can edit my original posts with updated links to the photos. It's a fun little project. I'm glad others are still finding the write up useful, even without the photos (for now).

 

[MCM_Fan]

Images restored.