Sansui Frequently asked, and more...

file:///C:/Users/bear/Downloads/Sansui%20Serial%20Number%20170301.pdf LB Pete has created a copy of the serial number data base.
This file could be useful if someone wanted to maintain it as entries were made.
I decided that was more than I wanted to take on some time ago.
Members thoughts?
 
Casey, it's not a copy of the existing database, it's a complete update as of yesterday. I'm all set up to maintain and update it. The updates just need to be posted on the database page. I don't have access to that.

- Pete
 
Casey, here's a link to the current file from 2009. http://akdatabase.org/Sansui/Report2.pdf. That file "report2" needs to be replaced with the new file I gave you. The AK Database appears to be on a separate server. We need to find out who has access to it. Is there someone you can ask?

- Pete
 
Rebuilding the 9090DB Dolby board, anyone replaced the 1N60 diodes along with caps and transistors? Is it worth it?
 
I wouldn't change them unless they are bad. Very few people have a need for the functions that board provides.

- Pete
 
An update on availability of the STV-2H: I tried to order some today, and the (very nice) guy at Consolidated who I talked to said he's sold hundreds - but they're all gone now!

If anyone knows where either the STV-2H or the NTE 605A can be obtained, can you let us in on it? Thanks.

I have found local NTE dealer can order NTE 605a diodes. They say that the part number has been discontinued for years but was revived.
Most likely any NTE dealer will be able to order them now.
 
So, what is your recommendation to use on original F1040 Sansui board without damage?
Thanks
 
I have found local NTE dealer can order NTE 605a diodes. They say that the part number has been discontinued for years but was revived.
Most likely any NTE dealer will be able to order them now.
I am sorry I don't know the answer to that, especially as I have only just learned that you want this for a F-1040 board. (used in 5000x ?).

May I suggest you start a thread and ask the question? - bear in mind that you may be advised to upgrade the board (as most people do) - there was a thread/post detailing exactly how to do this.
 
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There is a lot of information on upgrading that board. The procedure starts in post 163 in the FAQ thread.

Please post the serial number for the database. Click on the link in my signature block.

- Pete
 
I have an AU-11000 that is having some issues. A lot of the caps, etc. have been replaced previously, but am looking to find a reputable dealer/tech to look it over. Any suggestions?
 
I wonder if anyone with a pair of SP-5000's uses an EQ and if so what is your opinion on the sound with and without. I don't have an EQ but was thinking of getting one if it is worth it.
 
Hi,

I recently aquired a 5000, and was intent on performing the modifications as shown at the start of this thread, but ran into some problems.

The reason for this post is twofold, the alternative bias diodes NTE-605a and STV-2h are not available locally, and from what I can gather are almost impossible to get hold of anywhere, so I needed an alternative for these. The second reason for the post is that the fault on the 5000 I have was left channel distortion, which tuned out to be a corroded base lead on the 2SA485 bias transistor, and I am having difficulty finding a suitable alternative for the 2SA485/2SC485 pair in a metal can case.

Inspired by the excellent work EchoWars has done in identifying alternative bias diodes I decided to use 2 1N4148 diodes in place of the old LV-2 diodes.

In searching for alternative transistors, I settled on the commonly available BD139/BD140 complementary pairs, the specs are a reasonable match to the originals.

Last was to work out a way of making an transistor/bias diode assembly that would provide the thermal equivalent of the old assembly, and the following details what I did.

This is a modification instruction that will replace the old 2SA485/2SC485 bias assemblies with new assemblies made from readialy available components

What you will need

BD139 x2
BD140 x2
1N4148 x8
1.5mm (or 1/16") dia heatshrink, approx 35mm length (1 1/2")
6mm dia (or 1/4") heatshrink, approx 50mm length (2")
Suitable hookup wire, 2 colours, approx 100mm (4")

Also, before starting any work on the unit, take out the protection fuses on the rear panel and discharge the power supply and output caps as per the instruction in the first post in this thread.

A new assembly is made up from one transistor and a diode pair in series. I chose to connect one end of each diode pair directly to the base of each transistor, as this is the way they end up being connected when assembled to the PCB, You could do it with two leads for the diode pair if you wish.

This is what we want to end up with for pair of assemblies

Transistor_diodeconnection.jpg


Start by first pre-bend the transistor leads to match the hole layout in the PCB. The holes in the PCB are tight, and correct alignment will make fitting easier.

sansui5000BD139_140legsbent-1.jpg


and then make up a transistor/diode pairs like this (this shows the BD140 PNP transistor, the BD139 NPN is the same except the diod pair are reversed). NOTE: as these components are being soldered very close to the body of the component, use care with the soldering, only apply heat for as short a time as possible to make a joint. Also take care with the termination of the diode to the base lead of the transistor - make sure that is is not shorted to the adjacent collector lead.
sansui5000BD140withdiodes.jpg


The assmebly is then covered with the larger heatshrink (approx 1/2" length). The 6mm dia heatshrink is a tad undersised for this, I stretched it just a little using long nose pliers prior to fitting. I used two different colour flying leads to easily distinguish between the BD139 and BD140 as the component coding is covered by the outer heatshrink.



sansui5000BD139_140finished-1.jpg


Assuming that the old assemblies have been removed for the PCBs, the new assemblies can now be fitted. Make sure that the holes in the PCB are clear, as the new transistor leads are a tight fit. The diode flting leads are fitted as follows

sansui5000NEWDIODEPCBCONNECTION.jpg


And

Transistor_diodeconnection_1.jpg


And this shows the new assemblies fitted

sansui5000BD139_140assembled-1.jpg


The bias pots should be wound fully CCW prior to turn on, and then bias set as per the service manual (23ma measured at the protection fuse for each channel).

Notes:

- I did this without removing the boards as I didn't have a high wattage soldering to desolder the braid earth connections. I did remove the RHS capacitors to get access to the component side of the RHS PCA. It would be easier if the boards were removed, and care should be taken when removing the old bias assemblies, the pads on the board are a little fragile.

- the diodes could be assembled using two flying leads as per the original arrangement if so desired.

- These instructions are for the F1040 PCA, and I assume that they will also be applicable to the later F1040-1 PCA.

And a final word of advice to owners of 5000's and 5000A's with F1040 and F1040-1 PCA's. As stated earlier in this post, the failure in my 5000 occured due to the base lead on one of the 2SA485's corroding off the body of the transistor. All of the 2SA485/2SC485's I removed had evidence of corrosion on the leads (and the interior of my 5000 had no other signs of corrosion. lead oxidation etc)

sansui5000OLDBIASTRANS.jpg


Thye would had all failed sometime in the future.... a time bomb waiting to go off. I would suggect that you have a look next time you have the covers off, it is relatively easy to see if there is corrosion present.

My original thread on this is here

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=347022

I hope this is of some use to other 5000 owners in the future. If anything is not clear or if anyone has and questions either PM me or post up here.

Cheers

John

Is it possible to repair the photos? I've got a 5000 which needs some surgery
 
Hey Folks,

I have an 8080DB on the bench and it has the dreaded Dolby board problem. When I got it, one channel was out and I traced the problem back to that board. I removed it, recapped it, wired and soldered all of the pass-throughs, and cleaned all of the switches with Deoxit. When I reinstalled it, neither channel worked. So, I removed it again and reflowed the solder. Still, both channels are dead.

I used Mark, from Blueglow's video as my guide. He says to use the existing solder + new in the pass-throughs. I believe the instructions here say to remove the old and use only new. Is it possible that's the problem? Not dissing Mark, I've learned a bunch from his vids. Just wondering. Any other suggestions?

Thanks
Matt
 
I had to replace Dolby board ribbon cable with individual wires. There were multiple breaks in mine.
 
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