Starting Marantz 2325 rebuild

@Wallie : thank you once more for the BOM.
But I just wanted to mention that in the document, the "amount" of each component is quite messed up, many mistakes
And P100 is missing altogether from the list.
Maybe you want to update the document before too many people use it and and up with missing components ?
 
@Wallie : thank you once more for the BOM.
But I just wanted to mention that in the document, the "amount" of each component is quite messed up, many mistakes
And P100 is missing altogether from the list.
Maybe you want to update the document before too many people use it and and up with missing components ?

P100 is the FM front end, no electrolytic caps or anything to replace in there. No need to even take it's cover off.
 
Ooops, yes you're right. It is P150 (AM board) that is missing in the BOM....

I can't locate the Mouser numbers but here's my replacements and values. The 1.0 and 4.7s could be film caps if you wanted to, I had the lytics and chose to use them. All are Panasonic or Nichikon 105 degree c.
_DSC0334a.JPG
 
^^^ Yeah, film caps on the AM board would be a useless upgrade.

You could take the front end cover off and put a little DeOxit on the bearing points to make for quieter tuning.
 
I can't locate the Mouser numbers but here's my replacements and values. The 1.0 and 4.7s could be film caps if you wanted to, I had the lytics and chose to use them. All are Panasonic or Nichikon 105 degree c.

I'll update the BOM with these, thanks! I collected the information from this thread (and the Leestero one), as this was my first serious restoration and was simply following along :D
(EDIT: update of the BOM is done)
 
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@Wallie : thank you once more for the BOM.
But I just wanted to mention that in the document, the "amount" of each component is quite messed up, many mistakes
And P100 is missing altogether from the list.
Maybe you want to update the document before too many people use it and and up with missing components ?

I agree on the amounts per parts, I'm fixing it now! I automated this process, and it messed up indeed from time to time. No problem for me as I bought way more than needed when I was shopping for my caps.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I was responding in a positive way to: "The 1.0 and 4.7s could be film caps if you wanted to, I had the lytics and chose to use them." It wouldn't have gained you anything to have used film caps on the AM tuner board recap. The distortion on AM runs 2-4% at best so why waste any money on going to films was my premise.

On the front end, between the sections of plates, the shaft the movable section rides on has points where it is supported which I called bearing points. If they get oxidation you can hear a noise like someone blowing in a mic while doing tuning. Just a bit of DeOxit to these points will clean it up so that the noise is reduced or eliminated. It can land in a spot that makes reception poor too so is worth doing. Too much and it will pull the tuned frequency off until the carrier liquid evaporates thoroughly which is usually at least over a day and up to several. For sure you don't want to flood a front end with DeOxit!
 
Sorry for the confusion, I was responding in a positive way to: "The 1.0 and 4.7s could be film caps if you wanted to, I had the lytics and chose to use them." It wouldn't have gained you anything to have used film caps on the AM tuner board recap. The distortion on AM runs 2-4% at best so why waste any money on going to films was my premise.

On the front end, between the sections of plates, the shaft the movable section rides on has points where it is supported which I called bearing points. If they get oxidation you can hear a noise like someone blowing in a mic while doing tuning. Just a bit of DeOxit to these points will clean it up so that the noise is reduced or eliminated. It can land in a spot that makes reception poor too so is worth doing. Too much and it will pull the tuned frequency off until the carrier liquid evaporates thoroughly which is usually at least over a day and up to several. For sure you don't want to flood a front end with DeOxit!

My front end cover screws are locked tight, can't budge 'em, but I did a little shot of Deoxit right behind the drive wheel thru the hole the shaft goes through. Thanks for the input.
 
@Wallie
Now you might want to finish the work in beauty by adding P200 : FM IF Amplifier board to your BOM :biggrin:

I thought I had finished it all and then I see this shiny cover I never noticed, and there P200 was hiding.....:confused:.....lucky me I had the necessary caps in stock :)
 
Now you might want to finish the work in beauty by adding P200 : FM IF Amplifier board to your BOM :biggrin:

Will do when possible, probably tonight. I have not recapped this board, but I will make the list of the electrolytics and find some suitable replacements :)

EDIT: Update is done! Took a bit longer than expected :rolleyes:
 
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No pressure, but it's just if you make something available to everyone, which is very nice of you, the information should be complete :)
 
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Just a follow up on this rebuild thread. It's been a little over a year since I did it and the 2325 has been my daily driver during that time. It sounds absolutely great and effortless driving some JBL L-100's as well as Klipsch Fortes (not at the same time). The heating problems that concerned me don't appear to be a problem in daily use. I still have one aggravating small problem that I thought was fixed when I Deoxited the internal pre/main jumpers. When I first turn the unit on and there is no signal (usually on phono input), there is a light static sound that dissipates over about 5-10 seconds, never to be heard again. It's such a small distraction that I'm not about to dig into it to try to find the source. Mainly I just play my classic rock albums the way they were intended to be played. I may have this thing buried with me. :naughty:
 
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Moved on to the PL01 Dolby, Tone and Meter Circuit Board. Just a few caps on this little board. Didn't touch any other components

After replacing all electrolytics (one on bottom of board)
IMG_1710_zpsuxtfgeaq.jpg


And the parts used:
PL01 Dolby, Tone & Meter Circuit Board

CL05/06/07 10µF/16V - Nichicon KL 10µF/16V Mouser 647 UKL1C100KDD1TD
10/11/12/13
CL/14 33µF/35V - Elna Silmic II 33µF/50V Mouser 555-AFS50V330MH4#5
(Bottom of Board)

Then the P300 FM MPX Circuit Board

After replacing caps. Nothing else touched. Lots of these became WIMA films
IMG_1711_zpssvfmpo7z.jpg


And the parts I used. Since I wasn't planning on doing this board originally, I didn't order any parts. Luckily, I had everything on hand, but some of the caps were Nichicon KL series. They are not 105 degree caps, but hopefully they will be OK in this location. If you see any glaring errors, or anything I should change, please let me know!

P300 FM MPX Circuit Board

C302 33µF/10V - Nichicon KL 33µF/16V Mouser 647-UKL1C330KDDANA
C304 22µF/16V - Panasonic FC 33µF/25V Mouser 667-EEA-FC1E220
C307 .47µF/50V - WIMA MKS2 .47µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2.47/50/10T
C308/309 .22µF/50V - WIMA MKS2 .22µF/63V Mouser 505-MKS20.22/63/5
C323/324 .22µF/35V - WIMA MKS2 .22µF/63V Mouser 505-MKS20.22/63/5
C325/326/ 1µF/35V - WIMA MKS2 .1µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
331/338
C327 220µF/25V - Nichicon PW 220µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V221MPD6
C328 220µF/16V - Panasonic FC 220µF/16V Digikey P11199-ND
C329/332 10µF/16V - Nichicon KL 10µF/16V Mouser 647 UKL1C100KDD1TD
C337 4.7µF/35V - Panasonic FC 4.7µF/50V Mouser 667-EEU-FC1H4R7

Hi Steven... Was wondering why you used film caps in place of the Electro's for C307/308/309/323/324/325/326/331/338? Thank you in advance. 'O' Frank
 
Was wondering why you used film caps in place of the Electro's for C307/308/309/323/324/325/326/331/338? Thank you in advance. 'O' Frank

I use films in most of those locations on the MPX board because they fit nicely, rather than for whatever improvement the films might or might not bring.
 
It arrived yesterday in one piece. The seller did a phenominal job packaging it up!

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Purchased it with the right channel out. After some testing I realized the issue was on the PU01 board, also noticed one of the filters had vented.
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With the help of this thread, the PU board was a breeze to gain access too.

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Got the tone board, PU01 and buffer done last night. Figured I'd get that PITA PU01 done and out of the way!
 
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