Troubleshooting CD Players

The rails need some kind of lubricant on them, either oil or grease. Light machine oil works best on most players. Clean the rails and lube them as detailed in this thread. Oil the top bearing of the spindle motor.
Check for scraping noises when the troublesome CDs play. Thinner CDs will sometimes cause the chuck to rub on the support bracket.
The best way to check the laser is by using an oscilloscope to view the rf waveform. The electronic adjustments could be off but you need a scope to perform them. This is a Toshiba mech and pickup, NOT Sony. They never were very good.

Thanks for the info sir. I will have to see how to access the spindle motor when I get back in. I did download the manual and it shows disassemble procedure.

I have ordered some replacement electrolytic caps to recap the unit. I purchased Nichicon audio grade KT and KA depending on available values for the series. Bipolar caps I will use MP and US series.

When I get it back apart I will lube the rails. I have some Teflon GEL lube I can use. I do have a scope (Tektronix 2235), but wouldn't know where to look, or what to look for. I'm not really proficient with it, just used it to peak radios. I have played several more CD's since the post, some of recent purchase to see if maybe they wouldn't play due to the reflection of the newer CD's being less? At any rate, all have played flawless. I'm almost of the opinion that the Stones CD is a bootleg possibly made on a CD-R which I don't think will read on the older players? It doesn't show any signs of recognition. I polished the Zeppelin CD with some NOVUS fine scratch remover and it still skips in the exact same spot. When prompted to the next song, it plays it just fine. It does have some weird marks on the underside of the CD, but it also does play on the NAD.

When I had it apart, I played or ran the Stones CD and another and it was very smooth and no noise on the one it recognized, but the Stones it just spun a little and then stopped, like no info on the CD.

I might ad it does sound very nice to my ears playing through the R-1050.
 
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You oil the spindle motor from the top with a syringe. You should be able to get to it though the slot that the laser moves in, just move the laser out all the way by turning the motor that moves it.
 
Dr audio, I stumbled on this thread while searching for a cure for my cd player. I read all of this thread and I didn't see anything pertaining to my cd players drawer (on 2 occasions) not closing after I loaded a disc. I have the marantz cd6006 unit. It is still under warranty, but I don't want to send it in just yet. The only way I could get it to close was to nudge the drawer by hand. I tried to shut the power off the player while the drawer was open thinking that might close it, no dice. It always opens fine and it appears to be open all the way. I can live with this problem but I can't help wonder if this is going to lead to bigger problems down the road. Any advice would surely be helpfull.
 
Dr audio, I stumbled on this thread while searching for a cure for my cd player. I read all of this thread and I didn't see anything pertaining to my cd players drawer (on 2 occasions) not closing after I loaded a disc. I have the marantz cd6006 unit. It is still under warranty, but I don't want to send it in just yet. The only way I could get it to close was to nudge the drawer by hand. I tried to shut the power off the player while the drawer was open thinking that might close it, no dice. It always opens fine and it appears to be open all the way. I can live with this problem but I can't help wonder if this is going to lead to bigger problems down the road. Any advice would surely be helpfull.
So what you are saying is, the "Close" button does not work. Have you tried pushing the play button?
If that works then the close switch is not working.
If you give the drawer a nudge and then it closes on it's own, it is likely that the switch that senses when the drawer is in the open position is bad or out of adjustment. If that is the case, the drawer motor is probably still turning against the belt or trying to turn and it's stalled because the drawer is already fully open. This is bad for the motor, the belt and the drive circuit. If it's in warranty, take it in for service.
 
The close button did not work,the play button did not work and neither did pressing the number 1 track button. And the unit is totally silent while I'm trying to close it as I am able to place my ear right next to the player. Also while I push the close button, my display changes from open to close just as it would under normal circumstances. thank you for your quick response.
 
The fact that the display changes from open to close indicates the open limit switch is probably ok. The problem may be with the microprocessor door control output pin or the door motor drive circuit. Take it in for service before it goes out of warranty!
 
dr*audio or others, are there reccomended sources for replacement drawer belts?

I recently picked-up an older Sony unit (207-esd) and replaced the belt with a rubber band to confirm a belt replacement was warranted, it is, but I'm having difficulty finding decent sources for correctly sized square belts.

I'm hoping someone can help. :thumbsup:
 
dr*audio or others, are there reccomended sources for replacement drawer belts?

I recently picked-up an older Sony unit (207-esd) and replaced the belt with a rubber band to confirm a belt replacement was warranted, it is, but I'm having difficulty finding decent sources for correctly sized square belts.

I'm hoping someone can help. :thumbsup:
Measure the belt and try Vintage Electronics. If you give him the measurements he should have something.
 
Measure the belt and try Vintage Electronics. If you give him the measurements he should have something.

Thank you, small follow-up question if I may... is that Vintage Electronics .com or .net or an eBay seller, etc.? :dunno:

Many thanks. :beerchug:
 
marrs communications says the have the original Sony belts. I have never done business with them, found it searching around the search engines. and I hope it's OK to say who they are. $22 for all the belts for a CDP player...and it's a .com
 
CD drawer will not open
I just succeeded in repairing my 20 year old Sony 5 CD changer. The drawer/platter would not open, but if I turned the whole thing upside down and wiggled the drawer then it worked intermittently. Since giggling the wires to the servo motor also sometimes fixed it, I put in new wires and even a new connector plug, but it only worked for a short while. So I bit the bullet and disassembled it further removing the drawer, gears and ribbon cables to get at the servo motor. It was soldered to a small board such that the torque of the motor had broken the solder joint. Just re-flowed the solder and all is fixed for hopefully another 20 years. Careful, there are arrows on some gears that must be aligned to get things in sync.
 
I want to once more thank the good Dr. for this thread. I've repaired a Denon DCD-1500 II, a Sony 302, and countless others with his simple to execute tips.

THANK YOU, DR*AUDIO!
 
Great info in this thread Dr. Audio.
I have a sony x111es that's driving me crazy.
New belt, cleaned and oiled the sled rail and cleaned the lens with eye glass cleaner.
It was working great for months then started having problems with longer discs. As it would get up past the 45 min mark, it would skip a bit then spin down and read NO DISC.
After this occurred a couple of times it just stopped working.
I have since oiled the drive motor and greased some gears and it will play fine but if I try to skip around from track to track it will skip then click a few times before reading NO DISC. Definitely more of a problem further into the disc.
I love the player but it's only at about 90% functionality right now.
Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Mike
 
Dr Audio, I have an issue with my old Panasonic Shockwave portable cd player. It skips on nearly all my cds usually on tracks 1-3 ( Sometimes on other tracks). Some cds are worse then others. It also skips with the lightest touch. I tried cleaning the lens with a q-tip moistened with water. That did not work. I then cleaned the rails that the laser slides on with alcohol and then applied a bit of light machine oil. This also did not work. I lastly cleaned off the oil and tried some Silicone Lubricant. This also failed. Im not sure what else to try. I would like to add that i do not move the cd player, it just sits still on my desk with no vibration but if i put the antishock mode on it works better and rarely skips with these issues. I just do not like to put it on antishock mode because it degrades the sound with compression and kills the battery life much faster. Thanks
 
Just found this thread and I'm guessing my query should have been posted here rather than in a new thread, which nobody's responded to yet.

Thread here: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-cdp-doesnt-track-can-i-do-this-myself.782382/

TL;DR version: picked up a Pioneer PD-M910 changer at thrift store for essentially nothing. It's the typical Pio upside-down laser assembly, lens fell out, it wasn't in the unit (there are a few holes in the bottom of the chassis) Bought a PD-M500 also for cheap, transplanted the laser in, thought I was good, turns out it doesn't track worth a shit. Google machine tells me that I probably need to do some tracking adjustments as the lasers are individually adjusted. Is this something I can do myself, and any tips? Or is this a job for a Real Tech(tm)? I'm somewhat fearless, but beyond a multimeter and a soldering iron I don't have a lot of experience. I do have a scope but don't really know how to use it. I have a basic sine wave generator but not much else in the way of test equipment.
 
Dr Audio, I have an issue with my old Panasonic Shockwave portable cd player. It skips on nearly all my cds usually on tracks 1-3 ( Sometimes on other tracks). Some cds are worse then others. It also skips with the lightest touch. I tried cleaning the lens with a q-tip moistened with water. That did not work. I then cleaned the rails that the laser slides on with alcohol and then applied a bit of light machine oil. This also did not work. I lastly cleaned off the oil and tried some Silicone Lubricant. This also failed. Im not sure what else to try. I would like to add that i do not move the cd player, it just sits still on my desk with no vibration but if i put the antishock mode on it works better and rarely skips with these issues. I just do not like to put it on antishock mode because it degrades the sound with compression and kills the battery life much faster. Thanks
In portable players the suspension starts to sag over time and the CD rubs against the inside of the case. If it has springs you can carefully stretch them but must just have rubber bellows. You can try putting washers under the bellows.
 
Just found this thread and I'm guessing my query should have been posted here rather than in a new thread, which nobody's responded to yet.

Thread here: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-cdp-doesnt-track-can-i-do-this-myself.782382/

TL;DR version: picked up a Pioneer PD-M910 changer at thrift store for essentially nothing. It's the typical Pio upside-down laser assembly, lens fell out, it wasn't in the unit (there are a few holes in the bottom of the chassis) Bought a PD-M500 also for cheap, transplanted the laser in, thought I was good, turns out it doesn't track worth a shit. Google machine tells me that I probably need to do some tracking adjustments as the lasers are individually adjusted. Is this something I can do myself, and any tips? Or is this a job for a Real Tech(tm)? I'm somewhat fearless, but beyond a multimeter and a soldering iron I don't have a lot of experience. I do have a scope but don't really know how to use it. I have a basic sine wave generator but not much else in the way of test equipment.
If you get the service manual it will tell you exactly how to connect the test equipment and how to adjust it.
 
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