Sansui 2000A recap list wanted and knob issue

timnan

New Member
Hi all,
Does any one have a copy of recap list for Sansui 2000A?
Many thanks.

One knob won't turn, while other knobs are fine without any noise. If I try to turn it very hardly it just turns a little bit, and both clockwise and anti-clockwise are same. Will DeOxit work? Or any other reason the knob won't tirn?
 
The bass changing knob won't turn easily. Especially the one next to panel (don't remember exactly maybe this one controls right channel). Strange.

I have this on my partners 2000 when l first got it, when the knobs haven't been used for a while they seize between the inner and outer treble and bass controls (left and right channel). You will have to remove faceplate and slowly drip some WD-40 or similar between the inner and outer shafts and slowly work them back and forth until completely free. Try not to get and WD-40 into the pot itself, if you do flush it out with some specific pot cleaner/lubricant, good idea to clean all pots and switches anyway while you are at it.

As to the cap list, ryuuoh is right, l can't find one either. You will have to open her up and visually inspect all caps and write your own list, this works better anyway and won't take that long. Don't forget to also replace any problematic transistors while you are recapping, ie the notorious 2SC458's and any complements if any.

All the best with your project, they are a very nice receiver :thumbsup:.
 
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The inner shaft turns freely without any issue. The outer control doesn't work at all. I will try WD40 on the outer control. Is that possible something inside pot seized or stuck? I have idea about the structure of this kind of controls.

I couldn't find a list as well. you are right maybe there is no such thing available for this model. Thanks for reminding the notorious transistors I already added this part to my plan. I will do more research before I actually start.

Thanks again.




I have this on my partners 2000 when l first got it, when the knobs haven't been used for a while they seize between the inner and outer treble and bass controls (left and right channel). You will have to remove faceplate and slowly drip some WD-40 or similar between the inner and outer shafts and slowly work them back and forth until completely free. Try not to get and WD-40 into the pot itself, if you do flush it out with some specific pot cleaner/lubricant, good idea to clean all pots and switches anyway while you are it.

As to the cap list, ryuuoh is right, l can't find one either. You will have to open her up and visually inspect all caps and write your own list, this works better anyway and won't take that long. Don't forget to also replace any problematic transistors while you are recapping, ie the notorious 2SC458's and any complements if any.

All the best with your project, they are a very nice receiver :thumbsup:.
 
The inner shaft turns freely without any issue. The outer control doesn't work at all. I will try WD40 on the outer control. Is that possible something inside pot seized or stuck? I have idea about the structure of this kind of controls.

Maybe it is something in the pot itself if you can hold the outer knob closest to the faceplate and still turn the main (inner) knob freely. I don't think a penetrating agent like WD-40 will help if this is the case.

Yeah it looks like no one has posted a list yet for these, to be honest l normally just write up a my own list anyway because of possible inconsistencies between different versions of the same units (updated circuit boards) etc. Same goes for the service manual, there is often a few parts that don't necessarily line up with what is physically in the unit itself.

Hope it all goes smoothly for you, l will be doing the same to the 2000 when l get a chance.
 
I also believe that there is a factory bulletin for a couple of wiring mods for the Sansui 2000A to eliminate hum etc. I think this bulletin is at the end of the service manual.
 
Thank you very much.

Yes I just tried. The inner knob will turn freely when I apply pressure on the outer knob against faceplate. Well, the inner knob does turn freely but it is not as smooth as the treble/balance/volume knobs. I will get WD40 and give a try anyway since this is a simple procedure. hopefully can be fixed by WD.

I am just too lazy to open up the case and disconnect/connect wires again. I should write down all values last time I opened it. If there are so many different hardware versions I agree any list from other people does not make sense. I have to create my own.

I just found recap is actually not an economic activity plus lots of time. 3 large capacitors may cost at least $60-70, led lamps may $30 more, transistors are cheaper. In total probably parts need $150 though the amplifier itself is under $100 of value in eBay. Next time if I see a serviced listing for $100 more than a same model but un-serviced one I will go for the serviced.




Maybe it is something in the pot itself if you can hold the outer knob closest to the faceplate and still turn the main (inner) knob freely. I don't think a penetrating agent like WD-40 will help if this is the case.

Yeah it looks like no one has posted a list yet for these, to be honest l normally just write up a my own list anyway because of possible inconsistencies between different versions of the same units (updated circuit boards) etc. Same goes for the service manual, there is often a few parts that don't necessarily line up with what is physically in the unit itself.

Hope it all goes smoothly for you, l will be doing the same to the 2000 when l get a chance.
Maybe it is something in the pot itself if you can hold the outer knob closest to the faceplate and still turn the main (inner) knob freely. I don't think a penetrating agent like WD-40 will help if this is the case.

Yeah it looks like no one has posted a list yet for these, to be honest l normally just write up a my own list anyway because of possible inconsistencies between different versions of the same units (updated circuit boards) etc. Same goes for the service manual, there is often a few parts that don't necessarily line up with what is physically in the unit itself.

Hope it all goes smoothly for you, l will be doing the same to the 2000 when l get a chance.
 
What hums? My amp seems no hums or noises. Do you mean the bad transistor issue? Maybe I am lucky.:)

I also believe that there is a factory bulletin for a couple of wiring mods for the Sansui 2000A to eliminate hum etc. I think this bulletin is at the end of the service manual.
 
If there are so many different hardware versions I agree any list from other people does not make sense. I have to create my own.

I guess l wasn't referring to the Sansui 2000A specifically, this was just a general comment but l know there is nothing more annoying than placing a special order off a list or the service manual then finding that you have 3 or 4 different value components in your particular unit so then you can't finish the job without re-ordering. I know many units have slightly different versions.

Next time if I see a serviced listing for $100 more than a same model but un-serviced one I will go for the serviced.

Yes but a "serviced unit" won't have had all of the work done that you are planning to do, yours will be a superior unit to the vast majority when you are done.

What hums? My amp seems no hums or noises. Do you mean the bad transistor issue? Maybe I am lucky.:)

I am not implying that your particular receiver has any hum but l have read somewhere here on AK that Sansui did put out a service bulletin for a couple of mods on the 2000A, maybe check the service manual for this. No this is not the transistor issue. Yes you can be lucky for sure, the 2000 here hasn't developed any noises with transistors yet but it's only a matter of time :biggrin:.
 
The 2000A and 2000x could be kissing cousins for all the interchangeable parts between them. I DO know that both of the 2000A I had and now have Do have 2000x boards in them and my 2000X has a couple 2000A boards in it. So it's not as easy as it sounds. But it's about 1/2 the cost as you noted above for caps and transistors. I didn't spend more than $60.00 on the last of the 2000's I did and that was about 5 years ago. And that was for everything.

I would strongly suggest getting both the "A" and "X" manuals, and matching up the boards on the unit with the board #'s in the manuals. Then determine what is on your boards, and replace parts using the values and voltages actually on the boards. Then keep the copies of the marked up manuals.
 
I put the Service Bulletin in the back of the "A" manual when I did my 1st "A". Sent it to HIFIENGINE and I believe AKDATABASE. The hum issue is addressed by moving 1 wire from one ground point to another.
 
Oh it is complicated I will get both X and A. Where did you buy capacitors from? I went to eBay it seems all these parts are expensive. 3 of 1000uf larger capacitors ask for $20 more. Two kinds of lamps together cost about $40. Plus some small capacitors and transistors, it is more than $120 at least. Maybe back in few years ago price could be lower?




The 2000A and 2000x could be kissing cousins for all the interchangeable parts between them. I DO know that both of the 2000A I had and now have Do have 2000x boards in them and my 2000X has a couple 2000A boards in it. So it's not as easy as it sounds. But it's about 1/2 the cost as you noted above for caps and transistors. I didn't spend more than $60.00 on the last of the 2000's I did and that was about 5 years ago. And that was for everything.

I would strongly suggest getting both the "A" and "X" manuals, and matching up the boards on the unit with the board #'s in the manuals. Then determine what is on your boards, and replace parts using the values and voltages actually on the boards. Then keep the copies of the marked up manuals.
 
Yes WD40 worked amazingly. I pried out the outer knob by using 2 spoons and applied a single stream on the shaft where close to the root of the control. That place is actually inside of facepanl but with the straw on WD40 bottle I am able to reach that area.
Cheers. Thank you.




I have this on my partners 2000 when l first got it, when the knobs haven't been used for a while they seize between the inner and outer treble and bass controls (left and right channel). You will have to remove faceplate and slowly drip some WD-40 or similar between the inner and outer shafts and slowly work them back and forth until completely free. Try not to get and WD-40 into the pot itself, if you do flush it out with some specific pot cleaner/lubricant, good idea to clean all pots and switches anyway while you are at it.

As to the cap list, ryuuoh is right, l can't find one either. You will have to open her up and visually inspect all caps and write your own list, this works better anyway and won't take that long. Don't forget to also replace any problematic transistors while you are recapping, ie the notorious 2SC458's and any complements if any.

All the best with your project, they are a very nice receiver :thumbsup:.
 
I put the Service Bulletin in the back of the "A" manual when I did my 1st "A". Sent it to HIFIENGINE and I believe AKDATABASE. The hum issue is addressed by moving 1 wire from one ground point to another.

Do you mean this page?
 

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That's the bulletin. The cost in parts to rebuild a 2000 series shouldn't be more than $30 if you pick the parts correctly. I use Digikey and Mouser. Try a heat gun (remove panel) on the stuck control, along with the WD-40. The heat will allow it to turn more easily and then the WD-40 can wick in and clean things out. Don't force things!
 
Thanks. You somehow inspired me. I found 75v 2200uf is a lot expensive than 80v 2200uf, several times more. You are right I can buy a higher voltage one and save money.

Which brand of capacitor is better? Or what brand should be avoided?



That's the bulletin. The cost in parts to rebuild a 2000 series shouldn't be more than $30 if you pick the parts correctly. I use Digikey and Mouser. Try a heat gun (remove panel) on the stuck control, along with the WD-40. The heat will allow it to turn more easily and then the WD-40 can wick in and clean things out. Don't force things!
 
My go-to cap for the 2000 series is the Nichicon LGU2A272MELC, 2700 uF, 100 VDC. They usually come in on the lower end of tolerance, so are a good match. You'll need three.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LGU2A272MELC/?qs=/ha2pyFaduh/O1WymznZehyLDzuh0qxT2kkoemaczDpFM3iUNaIJdQ==
It's 35 mm diameter so it fits the clamps. Just dress your wires neatly to solder them to the non-terminal PCB leads. You can also extend them a bit with a short piece of heavy copper buss wire if necessary.

Caveat- Check the size in your unit. I think it's the same as the 2000x, but not 100% positive.
 
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