Yamaha ns-200m crossover schematic

JMS

Member
I have recently purchased a pair of ns-200ma speakers that I am very impressed with. There are a few issues that I would like to fix that I believe to be crossover related. To address this I have purchased a par of ns-200m crossovers that I plan to upgrade and swap them out. My problem is I don't if they are compatible. The donor crossovers are not here yet but from the pics I have seen the caps are of similar values but I have questions about the inductors since they are not marked. If someone has a schematic of the ns-200m (not ns-200ma) they could pass along to me I would be thrilled. Information about the 200m speakers seems to be non-existant. I have the crossover schematic for the ns-200ma to compare to.
I can rehab the ones in the speakers but the downtime would be painfull because I am enjoying them as they are.

Thanks in advance
JMS
 
The schematic for the crossover shows a rather simple network with with just 2 capacitors each and a pair of inductors. Recapping this speaker will be cheap and pay dividends. 6.8, and a 2.7 uF caps. My favorite cap' for crossovers is the Axon True cap. Parts Connexion has them, http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_axon.html the 2.7uF is a $1.46 cents each, and the 6.2 uF is $1.89 each, the 6.2 is close enough to the 6.8. The existing cap's are probably 20% tolerance parts. The Axon True Cap is made by the same French outfit that makes the Solen Cap which cost just a bit more money. Parts Connexion has those as well and I see Solen has a a 2.7mF for $2.67 cents, and a 6.8mF for $3.50 cents each. In a couple of forums dedicated to crossovers the Axon was reviewed to have a better sound once burned in then the Solen. The Axon's vastly improved the sound of my Polk Monitor 10B's.

NS-200m service manual:
https://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_ns-200.pdf/download.html
 
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Thanks for looking but I think you ran into the same search problems I have been having. The link was to ns-200 which is a later model speaker and a totally different animal. The one I am looking for is a 3 way monitor made in the mid 80's and is in the direct lineage from NS-1000m,NS-500m... If you didn't look too close you would say these were a slightly smaller version of the NS-1000m except they have a cone midrange not dome. The NS-200ma replaced the NS-200m and was made only 1 year (1986)
 
The 200M is an under appreciated (and under valued) gem. Having owned the 500m and 1000m, the 200m is much more versatile and forgiving while still giving a good serving of the transparency that this line is known for. Do post your re-cap results.
 
Thanks Sam, I agree totally with your view. Back in the golden ago of audio I demoed and sold many pairs of NS-1000, NS-1000M, NS-690 and 670. I know we do not have a very long aural memory but I remember very well the transparency, imaging and huge 3d soundstage of the NS-1000. Although I cannot and willnot make any claim as to how these Ma's compare to NS-1000's, these same attributes are very much present. They just need a tuneup to bring out their best.
 
Thanks Sam, I agree totally with your view. Back in the golden ago of audio I demoed and sold many pairs of NS-1000, NS-1000M, NS-690 and 670. I know we do not have a very long aural memory but I remember very well the transparency, imaging and huge 3d soundstage of the NS-1000. Although I cannot and willnot make any claim as to how these Ma's compare to NS-1000's, these same attributes are very much present. They just need a tuneup to bring out their best.

The 670 and 690 Series 1 are also personal favorites. The cloth domes give up very little to the Be domes. While waiting for a replacement Be tweeter, I installed a 670 tweeter in the 1000M. Same mount, same housing, the lineage is obvious. Cloth is not as hot as Be so the level had to be brought up with the High control. (High control is not a tone control but a proper ceramic attenuator, which with changes to the crossover addressed the 670's tendency to overheat the controls and melt the plastic housing). Once leveled, it was hard to tell the difference. Be gives metal strings and cymbals the metallic ring that completes the image but that is the only difference. On a double side note, the NS-1000M still stands the test of time when paired with McIntosh MC60 tube amps. The true M's are great stuff and were far ahead of their time. Sadly, the "golden era" would not last with the gradual cheapening of the line that began with the 500M and the Ma series. Anyways, I am getting off track here. Cheers.
 
The 670 and 690 Series 1 are also personal favorites. The cloth domes give up very little to the Be domes. While waiting for a replacement Be tweeter, I installed a 670 tweeter in the 1000M. Same mount, same housing, the lineage is obvious. Cloth is not as hot as Be so the level had to be brought up with the High control.

It's hard to go wrong with any of these! Having two pair of 670's I find them to be well balanced and very transparent. I do set the tweeter volume on them to about 2:00. As much as I love the 500m's, I often think about which speakers would have to go if I were to downsize. I think it would be the 500m's.
I bought a set of Braun L710's which are fine speakers and do certain things very well to my ears, but the Yamaha's edge them out for me. The Yami's seem more refined and balanced; none of my speakers have been recapped by the way.
As a side note, I think the 200m is very similar to the 70T in many respects. The 70T was my first introduction to Yamaha speakers.:biggrin:
 
I can't find the crossover specs for the NS-200M anywhere. I want to rebuild mine.
After I'll pull them, I'll post back here with what I find.
Note: they're NS-200M, not Ma

...great speakers...
 
I can't find the crossover specs for the NS-200M anywhere. I want to rebuild mine.
After I'll pull them, I'll post back here with what I find.
Note: they're NS-200M, not Ma

...great speakers...
I have a working pair of 200m crossovers that I purchased that I planned to recap and put in a pair of 200ma speakers. They are enough differences between the crossovers between the 200m and 200ma that I decided against it. The caps are identical except the series cap for the tweeter is a slightly different value (maybe not enough to notice). Like you I have not found a schematic for the 200m's so I don't know what the inductor sizes are but I do have a schematic for the 200ma's so I know what those are. If you want the cap values for the 200m's so you can prepurchase them, let me know. I would also part with the intact 200m crossovers if you are interested. As of now the ma's are in parts so I can make the cabinets as close in appearance to the Kenrick sound ns-1000's as I can. Yes the are good enough to make that investment in time.
JMS
 
I have a working pair of 200m crossovers that I purchased that I planned to recap and put in a pair of 200ma speakers. They are enough differences between the crossovers between the 200m and 200ma that I decided against it. The caps are identical except the series cap for the tweeter is a slightly different value (maybe not enough to notice). Like you I have not found a schematic for the 200m's so I don't know what the inductor sizes are but I do have a schematic for the 200ma's so I know what those are. If you want the cap values for the 200m's so you can prepurchase them, let me know. I would also part with the intact 200m crossovers if you are interested. As of now the ma's are in parts so I can make the cabinets as close in appearance to the Kenrick sound ns-1000's as I can. Yes the are good enough to make that investment in time.
JMS

Thank you for the offer. I plan on just recapping my existing crossovers. If I can decipher the inductor values, I'll post them here.
That's very cool you're redoing the cabinets. Will you be documenting it on here?
Would love to see the process and end results.
Thanks
 
Pulled one of the crossovers on the NS-200M and the cap values are:
47
18
3.5
2.5
Iirc that's the same values as a NS-670.
I'm going to place an order for Audyn Q4 MKP foil caps soon, unless someone recommends against it?
I'm trying to avoid bright / sibilant caps, so staying away from Solen / Dayton / cheaper Jantzen Crosscap.
If, during the recap, I can see the inductor values I'll post them here.
 
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