The restoration of a Yamaha CA-2000 (Japanese CA-2010)

Although I first need to finish my T-2 mini project and my also new Micro Seiki DDX-1000 project, I couldn't help myself. So I started with cleaning the front plate and all knobs.

There appeared to be green corrosion on some knobs, but that turned out to be dirt :bigok:

The faceplate is a different story, there is something on it. Not sure what it is, but it couldn't be removed with: normal cleaner, sticker remover, turpentine, white spirit and thinner. So, I'm a bit out of options there. Maybe some of you know a different approach. In the last pictures you can see it, there are some cloudy stains on the faceplate.

Next steps: inventory of needed parts and to order them.

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I'm currently doing a CA-2000 refurb. Some proprietry parts on the function board, hope there ok.
Some hints,
- take out a gym membership, serious weight.
- remove L&R power amps to lighten the load, need to unsolder 4 "input" (+/-V, IN, GND) wires
- Unsolder 4 wires connecting meters to meter board so front plate can be removed
- Nichicon PW and EP caps on the power supply
- measure all FR's replace if out of spec
- replace VD1212's with 2 x 1N4148
- I would not overdo the step down, buy a quality low noise isolation transformer (torroidal), 700VA
would probably be ok, 1KVA plenty
 
Nice project! :beerchug:
I have observed that kind of stains on anodized pieces. I'll try to investigate...
It's damage to the sealant or clear coat on the anodized surface. Usually from using ammonia cleaners (windex for the US) or other harsh chemicals cleaners (water is the best cleaner). I have had luck with acrylic polish (like Future) to lessen the effects. Perhaps resealing with anodized sealant would work but I haven't tried (not until I get a garage, available here: http://www.caswellplating.com/anodizing-sealant-1-lb.html).

Plastic parts can be repainted with lacquer paint like Alclad.
 
I'm currently doing a CA-2000 refurb. Some proprietry parts on the function board, hope there ok.
Some hints,
- take out a gym membership, serious weight.
- remove L&R power amps to lighten the load, need to unsolder 4 "input" (+/-V, IN, GND) wires
- Unsolder 4 wires connecting meters to meter board so front plate can be removed
- Nichicon PW and EP caps on the power supply
- measure all FR's replace if out of spec
- replace VD1212's with 2 x 1N4148
- I would not overdo the step down, buy a quality low noise isolation transformer (torroidal), 700VA
would probably be ok, 1KVA plenty
I have a feeling MR Yamaha will take this restauration a bit further than that.

Also, he should be in really good physical shape after that last B-2 restauration:thumbsup:
 
Beautiful amp !
Does it run on 100V ?
Maybe the white stains are some kind of corrosion ?

Yes, 100V! I need a proper transformer.

I'm currently doing a CA-2000 refurb. Some proprietry parts on the function board, hope there ok.
Some hints,
- take out a gym membership, serious weight.
- remove L&R power amps to lighten the load, need to unsolder 4 "input" (+/-V, IN, GND) wires
- Unsolder 4 wires connecting meters to meter board so front plate can be removed
- Nichicon PW and EP caps on the power supply
- measure all FR's replace if out of spec
- replace VD1212's with 2 x 1N4148
- I would not overdo the step down, buy a quality low noise isolation transformer (torroidal), 700VA
would probably be ok, 1KVA plenty

Thx, some of those are allready on the list. VD1212's and FR's. I think this one is getting the Nichicon Muse treatment.

It's damage to the sealant or clear coat on the anodized surface. Usually from using ammonia cleaners (windex for the US) or other harsh chemicals cleaners (water is the best cleaner). I have had luck with acrylic polish (like Future) to lessen the effects. Perhaps resealing with anodized sealant would work but I haven't tried (not until I get a garage, available here: http://www.caswellplating.com/anodizing-sealant-1-lb.html).

Plastic parts can be repainted with lacquer paint like Alclad.

Yes I was a bit afraid of that. You think it can be fixed without damaging the lettering?
 
Yes I was a bit afraid of that. You think it can be fixed without damaging the lettering?
I have had a lot of success with Future floor polish on Pioneer and Marantz faceplates(my Yamaha gear has been clean).

This is what the product is called in the UK(perhaps Eurozone) https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C . Future in the Netherlands is availalble here: "in superstore's like Edah and C-1000. Also look in "Super de Boer" and 'Albert Heijn' which is locally referred to as 'AH'"(got this info from a plastic modelers forum which is where this is mostly used, outside of cleaning floors).

You're best bet is to ask about it in a Netherlands modeling community website and they will have the right name. Again it's just clear acrylic floor polish.
 
I have had a lot of success with Future floor polish on Pioneer and Marantz faceplates(my Yamaha gear has been clean).

This is what the product is called in the UK(perhaps Eurozone) https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C . Future in the Netherlands is availalble here: "in superstore's like Edah and C-1000. Also look in "Super de Boer" and 'Albert Heijn' which is locally referred to as 'AH'"(got this info from a plastic modelers forum which is where this is mostly used, outside of cleaning floors).

You're best bet is to ask about it in a Netherlands modeling community website and they will have the right name. Again it's just clear acrylic floor polish.
Great info, thanks. Do you polish the surface including the letters or do you go around them?
 
Plastic parts can be repainted with lacquer paint like Alclad.

The largest button on my PX-2 turntable is ugly! Some one scratch it and I tried sanding it out only to discover that it isn't brushed aluminum, it's some kind of finish over plastic!
Anybody know how I can refinish it to look original?
 
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@avionic:
Find a parts unit.
Isn't that the "down" button ?

Good used button would be best, but I haven't seen one in 3 years!
Yes, it is the 3-wide down button below L/R/Up buttons

The linked product wouldn't seem to work well; the button is 3D with sides
 
A question on the Tantalum discussion. In the phono section there's eight 100 uF tantalum capacitors in the signal path (C101 - C108). I was planning on replacing them with new AVX tantalums, but they are pretty expensive. Is there any drawback by replacing them with eight 100 uF Nichicon FG's?

Were they chosen in the 70's because of there physical size against electrolytics or were the chosen for their sonic performance? :idea:

Even stranger, according to the schematics (of a CA-2010) they should be 33 uF and 220 uF, but the ones in this CA-2000 are all 100 uF, four rated 6.3V and four rated 10V.

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A question on the Tantalum discussion. In the phono section there's eight 100 uF tantalum capacitors in the signal path (C101 - C108). I was planning on replacing them with new AVX tantalums, but they are pretty expensive. Is there any drawback by replacing them with eight 100 uF Nichicon FG's?

Were they chosen in the 70's because of there physical size against electrolytics or were the chosen for their sonic performance? :idea:

Even stranger, according to the schematics (of a CA-2010) they should be 33 uF and 220 uF, but the ones in this CA-2000 are all 100 uF, four rated 6.3V and four rated 10V.

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Size, every time. Replace those with the ones you want to (the FG). Tant caps actually have pretty high distortion I believe actually when being used to pass AC, no sonic benefit there.
 
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