Bass attenuator knob in loudspeakers

[presscot]

I have modified my DIY 2-way speaker to 3-way. The old 2-way system consists of a 6.5" woofer, SEAS H602, and a 1" tweeter, SEAS H400. Crossover network is an ordinary 2nd order. I added a passive subwoofer into each speaker to convert it to 3-way system. The sub is a 7" driver bandpass cabinet. They get along well with each other. But sometimes I think the sensitivity of sub is lower than the sat. So what if I added some potentiometers or attenuators to the sat in order to compensate for the sub? Any ideas?

 

[Bassblaster]

I dont think it would be ideal to add a trimmer to the woofer due to the heat it would have to dissipate. better to adjust your tone controls on your amplifier.

 

[JoeESP9]

FWIW: Using a 7" "woofer" to change a two way system into a three way does not mean you have "subwoofers". They are simply woofers.

 

[sKiZo]

I'd think you'd be better served adding a high pass circuit instead of a common attenuator?

 

[presscot]

How about "fader" control? What if I rearrange the connection by using speaker A and B of amp, I will get 4 channel system, and putting the fader knob in between speaker A and B in order to assign for front and rear channel as in car-audio. Any advantages and disadvantages?

 

[presscot]

FWIW: Using a 7" "woofer" to change a two way system into a three way does not mean you have "subwoofers". They are simply woofers.

Yes, it's actually a woofer but before that it used to be a subwoofer, still it's in the bandpass cabinet, so I just called it subwoofer in order not to confuse with the 6.5" seas.

 

[presscot]

I'd think you'd be better served adding a high pass circuit instead of a common attenuator?

Due to the error design of the 2-way's enclosure, the bass was lacked for this speaker. The low-end frequency decreased at 100 Hz, port size is too small and short because earlier it wasn't designed for the H602. So this is the reason of my converting it to 3-way.

 

[whoaru99]

I'd think an L-pad of necessary power handling would facilitate cutting back the mid/high section while maintaining the loading of the crossover.

But, yeah, if you can convert to biamp, preferably active, that would be the cat's meow

 

[onplane]

How about "fader" control? What if I rearrange the connection by using speaker A and B of amp, I will get 4 channel system, and putting the fader knob in between speaker A and B in order to assign for front and rear channel as in car-audio. Any advantages and disadvantages?

A and B speaker outputs vary from amp to amp. In some amps the A and B outputs are in parallel. That is, if you twisted together the wires from two speakers and inserted the twisted pair in A, it is exactly the same as connecting those speakers individually to A and B. In other amps, A and B outputs put the speakers in series. The idea here is to protect those amps from very low impedances, which the amps are not designed to handle.

Before you use A and B, you need to understand how your amp works.

A far, far better solution is what whoaru99 mentioned ... bi-amp! That is, get another amp with its own volume control to power your 7 inch woofers. This way if the woofers are behind in SPL, you simply turn the volume up on the woofer amp.

Regards,
Jerry