Polydome cleaning.

7.62

Infinity nutcase.
Just thought I’d show the difference with the product I use. You’ll need a bunch of Qtips, I do this 3 times with the last step using about 25 Qtips each making sure the product is cleaned from the domes. Takes me about an hour each.
B12219E8-8581-49D4-B8F0-DDAB70D232E7.jpeg
After,
8785498D-F2EB-43AE-9269-FA26B6393A67.jpeg
The third step is a bunch of Qtips rinsing any product from the voice coil and the rest of the dome, inner and outer.
8D623D57-2073-4E10-9EFA-EC8EAE7F719C.jpeg
The product used.
7162DD3F-0ED1-4F43-876B-3BADA557DEC8.jpeg
You can see where I missed a small area around the wires, that’s ok with me, sure it can be done but I don’t want to risk damaging the wires.

Enjoy the Music.
 
I hope that stuff is nothing like Armor All the white looking stuff, I used Armor All on a set of spare polydomes that I had stored away, I Checked to see what they looked like 3 years later and they were all cracked/disinterested so bad they were shot, I've been using pure silicon rc shock oil for over 5 years on the ones in my k9 and they still look like the day I started using it, sooner or later all our polydomes will be toast.
 
I wish there was a go to product for those domes because I wonder if it would work on rubber surrounds as well.
There's been a fair amount of discussion but no clear consensus that I saw.
Bill at Millersound treated my 5" Watkins rubber woofer surrounds with something when he repaired them, still slick and shiny.
Wish I knew what he used as I'm sure any product he uses has been thoroughly tested by him.
 
I wouldn’t use armor all on anything. I’m partial to both Mothers and Mequiars products. If they are faded and oxidized whatever you want to call it you can do nothing or take a chance I guess. The mequiars seems to hold up well and least I can tell does keep the domes soft and supple. I’ll do this about every 2 years.

I’m waiting for my son to send me pics of his domes on his Kappa 8’s. I did this same thing before he got them for Christmas 2 years ago.

I’ll share them as soon as I get them. I think this is better than doing nothing for long term if they are in decent shape.
 
Just thought I’d show the difference with the product I use. You’ll need a bunch of Qtips, I do this 3 times with the last step using about 25 Qtips each making sure the product is cleaned from the domes. Takes me about an hour each.
View attachment 1034581
After,
View attachment 1034582
The third step is a bunch of Qtips rinsing any product from the voice coil and the rest of the dome, inner and outer.
View attachment 1034583
The product used.
View attachment 1034587
You can see where I missed a small area around the wires, that’s ok with me, sure it can be done but I don’t want to risk damaging the wires.

Enjoy the Music.


The change in appearance is obvious.
First time treating those or had they been done before?
 
I have been doing this for my Kappa 9.1 Series II for a long time now. Below is what they look like today. So long term, they still are pliable etc... I do them on occasion. Not sure what the white is (like a powder type form). I guess a very very minute layer of the poly material breaking down.

vsdX6Ud.jpg

vsdX6Ud.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing uvafan, those look great. Goodolpg im unsure but I’m guessing it’s the first time and I should have snapped a few pics of the Qtips. The first round of cleaning the tips are a blueish color., I only do about a dime size patch then start with a new one.

After it’s just maintained as I mentioned. I’m curious, are you using the same stuff uvafan?
 
Thanks for sharing uvafan, those look great. Goodolpg im unsure but I’m guessing it’s the first time and I should have snapped a few pics of the Qtips. The first round of cleaning the tips are a blueish color., I only do about a dime size patch then start with a new one.

After it’s just maintained as I mentioned. I’m curious, are you using the same stuff uvafan?

The bottle I currently have looks a bit different (pictured below). But also curious about the silicone oil someone else mentioned, and how it is working out. I can't tell any sonic differences though. It is certainly a whole lot better alternative than connecting an 8 ohm driver as a replacement, or letting them alone (we all know how that ends up). And until someone (hopefully) comes out with a formed polymer replacement, I will continue doing it. Alternative materials is something Infinity could have also used, but didn't. So must be some sonic benefits to this material over papers, etc...

7i52VGG.jpg
 
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I went on meguiar's site and they say both protectant's mentioned here only last 2 to 3 weeks? how can that be?
 
I went on meguiar's site and they say both protectant's mentioned here only last 2 to 3 weeks? how can that be?

Probably due to car use. The constant rubbing, etc... that comes with a vehicle. Or if used externally, the rain, wear etc... In this application it is pretty much left to work into the material. Could also be used as the UV portion only last a couple weeks on vehicles. Works pretty good though. Is it a Holy Grail? no way. but it is about the best I have come up with so far. Wished I was an expert at forming polymers lol...
 
Probably due to car use. The constant rubbing, etc... that comes with a vehicle. Or if used externally, the rain, wear etc... In this application it is pretty much left to work into the material. Could also be used as the UV portion only last a couple weeks on vehicles. Works pretty good though. Is it a Holy Grail? no way. but it is about the best I have come up with so far. Wished I was an expert at forming polymers lol...
I've been using the pure silicon rc shock oil for years probably wouldn't make any sense in switching to the Meguiar's as I don't think you could remove the silicon coating on them now.
 
I've been using the pure silicon rc shock oil for years probably wouldn't make any sense in switching to the Meguiar's as I don't think you could remove the silicon coating on them now.

How did the oil effect the sound, or did it? I think any good conditioner (something that does not effect sound), is a better alternative to letting them just continue to degrade. Which is what they will do if left to their own device.

On the subject of Polydomes, that guy that used to sell the Silicone polydome replacements, on the auction site, got the mold and all right. He just used the wrong material to make them. It is some type of polymer. Much like the pellet form of polymer that is melted and formed in a dye in manufacturing.
 
How did the oil effect the sound, or did it? I think any good conditioner (something that does not effect sound), is a better alternative to letting them just continue to degrade. Which is what they will do if left to their own device.

On the subject of Polydomes, that guy that used to sell the Silicone polydome replacements, on the auction site, got the mold and all right. He just used the wrong material to make them. It is some type of polymer. Much like the pellet form of polymer that is melted and formed in a dye in manufacturing.
To be honest I couldn't hear any difference in the sound, the silicon oil goes on so thin and then I buff it off with a soft rag leaving just a dry looking polydome, feels dry to the touch too, my brother molds stuff all the time, he said the polydomes look like a soft/med Urethane.
 
I wish there was a go to product for those domes because I wonder if it would work on rubber surrounds as well.
There's been a fair amount of discussion but no clear consensus that I saw.
Bill at Millersound treated my 5" Watkins rubber woofer surrounds with something when he repaired them, still slick and shiny.
Wish I knew what he used as I'm sure any product he uses has been thoroughly tested by him.
------- non silicone brake fluid is what he used on my infinity RS2 midrange speaker surrounds --- that's a secret. Don't tell anyone. Russ
 
Russ, thanks.
I think I made a decent impression on Bill when we interacted last year but I didn't feel comfortable asking him what he used. Figured it could be a secret, and as I already mentioned, I have faith if Bill uses it then it has a track record, is safe, and works.
I must have a dozen or more of the 5" midranges that I'd like to protect.
Being the handy cheap skate car guy I am, I actually have a bottle of non silicone brake fluid here.
Maybe I'll pick a midrange and give it a try.
 
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I went on meguiar's site and they say both protectant's mentioned here only last 2 to 3 weeks? how can that be?

Probably due to car use. The constant rubbing, etc... that comes with a vehicle. Or if used externally, the rain, wear etc... In this application it is pretty much left to work into the material. Could also be used as the UV portion only last a couple weeks on vehicles. Works pretty good though. Is it a Holy Grail? no way. but it is about the best I have come up with so far. Wished I was an expert at forming polymers lol...

I tend to agree that the automotive (intended use) is the reason for the limited protection period stated--especially for exterior application. Cars undergo a hard life with temperature changes, sun (UV) exposure, road salt, and harsh car-wash detergents. Even interior materials take a beating. I apply the stuff to my Polydomes about every year to 18 months as routine maintenance, and it has worked very effectively at keeping them clear and supple. I generally put on a fairly heavy dose and let them sit overnight before buffing off the excess and re-assembling the drivers.
 
i was going to say the same, i think that rating is for the harshness of automotive use. In my enviroment the domes will never see the sun directly and for the most part be covered with the grill so the conditioning last much longer. ^ that's a great idea, i may try to soak method next time.

OTOH, had I said I use a non silicone brake fluid on anything I bet you guys would freak the hell out ! I guess coming from Bill that makes it ok....LOL.

Which reminds me, these need to take a ride
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I hope he can fix them. thats the way i got them.
 
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