Dang it! Left my CR 2020 on ALL weekend.

MannyE

Exterminate!
Did I mess it up?

It wasn't super hot, and luckily Miami had some "mild" under 90F temps all weekend but still.

That power switch ain't getting any younger. And I still haven't sent it out for the much needed restoration.
 
No. Some people leave their equipment on all the time. Theory is that leaving it on is easier on it than the heating/cooling that occurs when you power on/off.
 
Does it still work? There's a couple transistors on the power supply board that run pretty hot.
 
No wear on a switch that's left on.
Wear occurs on powering off (don't take that to mean being off).
Think about unplugging something when its on. You know the blue spark that briefly follows the plug out of the socket?
That's what happens when you switch something off inside the switch.
 
My Mac4100 receiver that was built in the late 70's has been on for 4 years. Now I would not leave something that runs in class A on 24/7..other than that it's probably not a problem.
 
I didn't think so, but since I don't know squat about Yamaha and about old stuff in general I was worried something might cook. Yes. It works just fine. I did read that the issue with the CR-2020 power switch was that spark when it's turned off which eventually melts or burns through some part rendering the switch useless. I wouldn't be so worried if there was a replacement or a rebuild kit or protocol. I would hate to have a $400 (unrestored) or a $1000+ (restored) paperweight because of the freaking power switch.

My HT gear on the other hand, spent over 5 years powered up until I realized I really couldn't hear a difference between 5 minutes or 5 years on. And ten years later the equipment you see down in the sig is still working perfectly.

Thanks for the replies. I feel better now. :)
 
I didn't think so, but since I don't know squat about Yamaha and about old stuff in general I was worried something might cook. Yes. It works just fine. I did read that the issue with the CR-2020 power switch was that spark when it's turned off which eventually melts or burns through some part rendering the switch useless. I wouldn't be so worried if there was a replacement or a rebuild kit or protocol. I would hate to have a $400 (unrestored) or a $1000+ (restored) paperweight because of the freaking power switch.

My HT gear on the other hand, spent over 5 years powered up until I realized I really couldn't hear a difference between 5 minutes or 5 years on. And ten years later the equipment you see down in the sig is still working perfectly.

Thanks for the replies. I feel better now. :)
There's a triac mod floating around here. If your switch is good, for 10 bucks in parts it will work forever (i'm only guaranteeing the switch):D .
If you're curious i'll see if i can dig it up for you.
 
I use an Adcom switcher/surge suppressor to take the hit over my power switches.
It's got readily available relays inside rather than impossible to find switches and can be had on eBay all day long for about $75.
 
Is that anything like the TSB (they call them that in the car industry... Technical Service Bulletin...audio too?) Yamaha put out to protect the power switch or even easier? If it's soldering a cap across two leads like in the link you posted (thank you, by the way) :

PD_0022_564_12656


Then I can do that! :banana:
 
No big deal..Like earlier stated.. The power switch takes its abuse on power up and power down only..
 
I'm not familiar
I'd have to know what the acronym means


TSB means Technical Service Bulletin. Yamaha has a Service Bulletin that calls for removing a resistor and adding another two and a capacitor... (or something along those lines) to avoid failure of the power switch.

I was wondering if the thread you pointed out did something similar... let me see if i can find it...

YES... it's here https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/cr-2020.shtml
 
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No it's not the same thing . The triac, acts like (is, depending on who you ask) a solid state relay.
What does is. The switch controls the triac at very low current (milliamps as opposed to amps).
At that rate there is virtually no deterioration of the switch contacts. The triac does the actual unit power switching.
I think the resistor capacitor network does 2 things. The cap acts like a snubber. The series resistor lowers current slightly and parallel one gives a leakage path to current slows rather than stops (at a very small level).
On a new switch it might work great (well it might work great for an old one for that matter).
The switch has an easier life with the triac either way.
I'm certainly not the end all authority on this.
I would say based on some very Savvy techs in the thread I posted. That's the way I would go if it were my gear (and I have)
 
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The CR-2020 Service Bulletin is here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/cr-2020.shtml

The power switch fix is detailed, and involves adding a jumper wire from the fuse holder to the switched outlets.

Just as a matter of convenience/protection, all of my gear is connected via power conditioners/sequencers, so the actual power switch on the components is never used--everything is left in the "on" position--the relays in the power conditioners/sequencers take the hit as they turn things on and off in order.
 
The CR-2020 Service Bulletin is here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/cr-2020.shtml

The power switch fix is detailed, and involves adding a jumper wire from the fuse holder to the switched outlets.

Just as a matter of convenience/protection, all of my gear is connected via power conditioners/sequencers, so the actual power switch on the components is never used--everything is left in the "on" position--the relays in the power conditioners/sequencers take the hit as they turn things on and off in order.

Just because I have several power conditioners/UPS this may be the way to go for me. Especially once I spend umpteen dollars to get the CR-2020 fully restored. Actually, maybe looking at having both as a "belt and suspenders" situation may really be the way to go.

I prefer to spend my money on music not repairing or replacing equipment.
 
Did I mess it up?

It wasn't super hot, and luckily Miami had some "mild" under 90F temps all weekend but still.

That power switch ain't getting any younger. And I still haven't sent it out for the much needed restoration.
Where are you thinking of having it serviced?
 
The plan is to send it to Bob... AKer handle wlhd1610 who is a Yamaha specialist. I was originally going to mail it up, but it seems I may get the chance to drive there and thus avoid 50% of the chance of thing getting ruined in shipping. He's in upstate NY.

I go to this trouble because I don't trust anyone around here to do the job. That's not true... I trust that anyone around here will totally ruin it and/or scam me and either never finish it or sell it to someone after I give it to them. Miami/South Florida has "tradesman issues" unlike any I have seen anywhere else.
 
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