phantomrebel
Serial Tapist
Just a quick writeup for BR-20T noobs like myself as I think blown VU lamps in these decks is a common problem (3 out of the 5 decks I looked at had blown lamps) and they are easy to replace.
All you need to do is remove the bottom 2 screws on the lower faceplate then tilt this faceplate up so it locks in place...nice feature! (I removed the knobs and other screws for service, but you don't have to for this bulb replacement project).
Locate the board under the VU meters that is held in by two screws. Unplug the side connectors (two on left, one on right) then remove the two screws. The board will pull down (note there is a black plastic friction post in the rear center of the board that also needs to be released). The board will now dangle from three additional connectors along the top which now can be unplugged to remove the board and bring to the work bench.
The plastic lens covers are taped to the backplates. To separate, you just need to remove the tape strip running side to side along the bottom front and then fold the lens back (the piece of tape at the top center acting as a hinge). This exposes the axial lamps that are soldered in. The replacements commonly available are clear while the OG's are frosted. I used 8V L24's from StudioSound.
Simply put your hot iron briefly on the soldering tabs to release the old lamp, then place the new axial across the tabs, hit it again briefly with the iron and then snip off the excess wire. There was enough original solder on the tabs that I didn't need to add any.
When done, replace the lenses, put new clear tape across bottom, reattach the connectors and push the board back in (be careful to align the green timecode lamp, friction pin, and lenses before finally setting it in). Put the screws back in, close the faceplate, reinstall knobs and screws and your done. Maybe a 15 min procedure and less than $6 in parts so you have no excuse to live with dark meters. I thought about LED replacements (with resistors), but I like the old school glow that matches my other equipment.
All you need to do is remove the bottom 2 screws on the lower faceplate then tilt this faceplate up so it locks in place...nice feature! (I removed the knobs and other screws for service, but you don't have to for this bulb replacement project).
Locate the board under the VU meters that is held in by two screws. Unplug the side connectors (two on left, one on right) then remove the two screws. The board will pull down (note there is a black plastic friction post in the rear center of the board that also needs to be released). The board will now dangle from three additional connectors along the top which now can be unplugged to remove the board and bring to the work bench.
The plastic lens covers are taped to the backplates. To separate, you just need to remove the tape strip running side to side along the bottom front and then fold the lens back (the piece of tape at the top center acting as a hinge). This exposes the axial lamps that are soldered in. The replacements commonly available are clear while the OG's are frosted. I used 8V L24's from StudioSound.
Simply put your hot iron briefly on the soldering tabs to release the old lamp, then place the new axial across the tabs, hit it again briefly with the iron and then snip off the excess wire. There was enough original solder on the tabs that I didn't need to add any.
When done, replace the lenses, put new clear tape across bottom, reattach the connectors and push the board back in (be careful to align the green timecode lamp, friction pin, and lenses before finally setting it in). Put the screws back in, close the faceplate, reinstall knobs and screws and your done. Maybe a 15 min procedure and less than $6 in parts so you have no excuse to live with dark meters. I thought about LED replacements (with resistors), but I like the old school glow that matches my other equipment.
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