The restoration of a Yamaha CA-2000 (Japanese CA-2010)

I replaced those in my 2010 with UKL's because of the low leakage qualities of the tantalums. I had to fit a couple under the board because of the size restraints of the e caps

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Yes, if memory serves l think l could only get the 25v UKL's at that point. Are the original tantalums only 6.3v or 10v?, l cannot remember.
 
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@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)
 
@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)
Nice,
I know Peak makes a nice LCR.
I use old school Sencore LC-77 (poor man's LC-103). Life just would not be the same without it :D
 
Yes, four of ‘m are 10V and the other four are 6,3V.

Ahh sorry, l now see you already mentioned this after l looked over your entire post again. So the 10v would be 2mm smaller in diameter than the 25v UKL's so yes they may very well fit fine as you say.

@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)

Do you think the original tantalums might have lower leakage current than modern low leakage electros? I am curious on this as l know the original tantalums in this old gear have a bad rep but it does make me wonder as Mr Yamaha was asking earlier about possible benefits or downfalls of quality modern tantalums.
 
Do you think the original tantalums might have lower leakage current than modern low leakage electros? I am curious on this
Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly.
 
Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly

Good point mbz, l use the mks2's a lot in 3.3uF and under (esp where low leakage were orig fitted) but l haven't used for the larger values. As you say they are fairly pricey in the larger values and Element 14 doesn't stock the 10uF either.
 
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Do you think the original tantalums might have lower leakage current than modern low leakage electros? I am curious on this as l know the original tantalums in this old gear have a bad rep but it does make me wonder as Mr Yamaha was asking earlier about possible benefits or downfalls of quality modern tantalums.

Well that's why I want the old ones, to find out !
The only way to learn and know for sure
 
@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)

Thanks, I will. I ordered the 10V FG’s, but will order the 10V KL’s also in the next order.

Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly.

We are talking about 100 uF here ;)
 
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I used KL's for the tantalums as well. Here is a photo I dug up. As you can see it was a bit of a tight fit but it works. It's a really nice phono stage, makes any record a little more magical.
 
PS: that sliding MM/MC selection switch need to be fully dismantled for a thorough deep inside cleaning; it's a "open air" type; all signal-carrying metal surfaces are guaranteed oxidized (even black).

And when it, oh well, the rotating selector switches as well.
 
PS: that sliding MM/MC selection switch need to be fully dismantled for a thorough deep inside cleaning; it's a "open air" type; all signal-carrying metal surfaces are guaranteed oxidized (even black).

And when it, oh well, the rotating selector switches as well.
All switches will be dismantled, cleaned and preserved. I've done a few in my C-4. There are different opinions on how. I use a glass fiber pen (soaked in deoxit 100) to remove oxidation and preserve them with faderlube. But there is someone on this forum who states that the kind of sanding sanding will damage a mystyrious coating applied by Yamaha :rolleyes:
 
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