Oldsansui441
Super Member
I replaced those in my 2010 with UKL's because of the low leakage qualities of the tantalums. I had to fit a couple under the board because of the size restraints of the e caps
Second that, I also used UKL's for the same reasonI replaced those in my 2010 with UKL's because of the low leakage qualities of the tantalums.
I replaced those in my 2010 with UKL's because of the low leakage qualities of the tantalums. I had to fit a couple under the board because of the size restraints of the e caps
Yes, four of ‘m are 10V and the other four are 6,3V.Yes, if memory serves l think l could only get the 25v UKL's at that point. Are the original tantalums only 6.3v or 10v?, l cannot remember.
Nice,@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)
Yes, four of ‘m are 10V and the other four are 6,3V.
@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)
Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly.Do you think the original tantalums might have lower leakage current than modern low leakage electros? I am curious on this
Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly
Do you think the original tantalums might have lower leakage current than modern low leakage electros? I am curious on this as l know the original tantalums in this old gear have a bad rep but it does make me wonder as Mr Yamaha was asking earlier about possible benefits or downfalls of quality modern tantalums.
Well that's why I want the old ones, to find out !
The only way to learn and know for sure
@Mr. Yamaha : I just purchased a capacitor leakage tester; please keep the tantalums apart and send them to me incl one specimen of the new caps you may select (unless FGKZ which I have in stock)
Some people suggest using MKS (Wima MKS2,,) datasheets show better tan delta. I've yet to try them/have a shoot out, bit reluctant, also they are a little costly.
All switches will be dismantled, cleaned and preserved. I've done a few in my C-4. There are different opinions on how. I use a glass fiber pen (soaked in deoxit 100) to remove oxidation and preserve them with faderlube. But there is someone on this forum who states that the kind of sanding sanding will damage a mystyrious coating applied by YamahaPS: that sliding MM/MC selection switch need to be fully dismantled for a thorough deep inside cleaning; it's a "open air" type; all signal-carrying metal surfaces are guaranteed oxidized (even black).
And when it, oh well, the rotating selector switches as well.