Any sub recommendations?

MajorInfidel

New Member
A quick bit of background. This Christmas I was gifted a very cool little TEAC CR-H101 CD receiver. I popped on here about a week ago to solicit some recommendations for speakers to make the most of the receiver's relatively meager 20W/channel Class D amplifier. After some outstanding advice from the members here, I ultimately decided to go with a pair of Klipsch RP-160Ms. Well, they have arrived and even with only a few hours of time on the speakers, I am beyond thrilled with what is possible today for less than a grand all in. I just listened to Dire Strait's live Alchemy album and you couldn't wipe the smile off my face. The accuracy of the sound reproduction is certainly remarkable, but it's the quality of the soundstage imaging that really has me floored.

It's the case then, that I could be very content with this set up, as is, for a very long time. At the same time, the TEAC receiver does have a subwoofer output. While I find the RP-160M's 6.5" woofer to be very competent, are there any subs out there that you think might serve as a nice compliment to the Klipsch speakers? I stress the word "compliment", because as I say, I very much appreciate the reference type sound accuracy of these speakers. But if there was a sub with a reputation for adding a little bass emphasis that was very tight, refined and extremely well composed, I certainly be willing to consider it. I'm a classic rock/metal guy for the most part, so all I'd really be looking for is maybe just a little more super clean pop on Neil Peart's kick drums or Geddy's bass. And if that's an unrealistic expectation, then I'm happy to hear that, as well.

The room in question is roughly 12' by 15' and the Klipsch speakers are on stands about 7' apart and maybe 8' or 9' away from my primary listening position. If purchased, the sub would be set down low, against the back wall, pretty much centered between the RP-160Ms and maybe another 6' behind them. One thing I'm not sure about is if a powered subwoofer would be called for here, or if the TEAC receiver is intended to provide the power. And if it's the latter, does this detract from the power that's available for delivery to the RP-160Ms?
 
Last edited:
That sub output looks like it's a summed (L+R) RCA line level out.
So you will need a powered (active) sub.

As for which one,there is'nt really a simple answer as there are so many ways to approach this sorta thing.
Most will advise staying away from ported enlosures for music useage,and a LOT will say "go big or go home" as SOP.
Thing is neither of those is a 100% sure-fire bet for sub hunt success.

I say that as both my current subs are ported enclosures and have < 10" woofers,and I could be any happier with them.

And as mentioned budget is a big part of this deal too.

But deals are out there,my Canton AS85-SC was bought NIB/unopened for $150.00 and that's like a $600.00 sub new.

My best advice is to do a search of this forum using the keyword "subwoofer" and study those threads.
I'm sure you'll have plenty more questions afterwards.

Clear as mud,right ?

Bret P.
 
Get a powered sub. The sub output on your amplifier needs to be connected to a powered sub. As for specific recommendations, that depends more on your budget than anything else.

Thanks, Joe. I figured that was the case, but wasn’t sure. Would $350 allow for any decent contenders?
 
IMO/E you can get something quite nice for $350. Try Amazon (no affiliation). Their return policy is extremely liberal.
 
Most will advise staying away from ported enlosures for music useage

Thanks for the info, Bret. So are we saying then, that for a person of a modest budget, powered subs are better suited to home theater type applications and not really appropriate for a music listening system optimized for clear, accurate sound reproduction? As I mentioned above, I’m totally willing to live with that as an answer if it’s the reality of the situation.
 
Thanks for the info, Bret. So are we saying then, that for a person of a modest budget, powered subs are better suited to home theater type applications and not really appropriate for a music listening system optimized for clear, accurate sound reproduction? As I mentioned above, I’m totally willing to live with that as an answer if it’s the reality of the situation.

Subs can indeed be used for music. I recommend you read this:

https://www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/75367747-sealed-vs-ported

SVS makes both ported and sealed subs. Notice that sealed subs seem to be a better fit for music while ported does a better job on movie sound effects. When you look at the top of the line Velodyne subs, they are ALL sealed.

Hope this helps...
Regards,
Jerry
 
It's not a requirement but you might consider going with a Klipsch sub, since they're designed to match with their main speakers. The R-10SW looks like it might be perfect for your application.
 
Thanks for the info, Bret. So are we saying then, that for a person of a modest budget, powered subs are better suited to home theater type applications and not really appropriate for a music listening system optimized for clear, accurate sound reproduction? As I mentioned above, I’m totally willing to live with that as an answer if it’s the reality of the situation.

A sub is a sub. It's either a good one or a not so good one.
FWIW: I've been using DIY dual powered 12" transmission line subs for more than 15 years. I built them for music. However, they add greatly to the sound from HT/surround sources. My subs have been used exclusively with ESL's and Maggies. IME just about every speaker, even "full range" floor standers with the exception of all out assaults on the state of the art, will benefit from the addition of one or preferably 2 subs. The all out assaults generally include their own powered subwoofers. That they usually include powered subs should tell you something.
 
Subs can indeed be used for music. I recommend you read this:

https://www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/75367747-sealed-vs-ported

SVS makes both ported and sealed subs. Notice that sealed subs seem to be a better fit for music while ported does a better job on movie sound effects. When you look at the top of the line Velodyne subs, they are ALL sealed.

Hope this helps...
Regards,
Jerry

Thanks, Jerry. That article was a great introduction to the subject. Now I want an SVS SB-1000. :D
 
Not to muddy the waters but consider two subs run in stereo. You can feed your subs from your amp with another set of speaker cables, to the sub's speaker level inputs. Nearly all speakers can benefit from this, even so called 'full range' models.

Personally I lean towards sealed front firing subs, I've always found them most impressive when set up correctly.
 
Last edited:
A sub is a sub. It's either a good one or a not so good one.
Well, yes and no. Unless it's a cost-no-object subwoofer, sacrifices need to be made in the name of price. One that's designed more for HT will probably sacrifice accuracy in favor of higher SPLs.
 
Not to muddy the waters but consider two subs run in stereo. You can feed your subs from your amp with another set of speaker cables, to the sub's speaker level inputs. Nearly all speakers can benefit from this, even so called 'full range' models.

Personally I lean towards sealed front firing subs, I've always found them the most impressive when set up correctly.

Brett, could you please explain in a little more detail how the connections work in a set up like you’re describing here? My TEAC receiver has one single RCA output for the subwoofer. I’m sure your explanation makes perfect sense to 99% of the members here, but I’m not too proud to admit that it’s mostly Greek to me.

ETA: I looked at some subwoofer photos on amazon and think I may have figured it out. So my single RCA cable from the receiver would go into the white ‘LFE’ input on the first sub - and the a pair of RCA cables would go from the line level output on the first sub to the corresponding line level inputs on the second sub. Is that about right?
 
Last edited:
Brett, could you please explain in a little more detail how the connections work in a set up like you’re describing here? My TEAC receiver has one single RCA output for the subwoofer. I’m sure your explanation makes perfect sense to 99% of the members here, but I’m not too proud to admit that it’s mostly Greek to me.

ETA: I looked at some subwoofer photos on amazon and think I may have figured it out. So my single RCA cable from the receiver would go into the white ‘LFE’ input on the first sub - and the a pair of RCA cables would go from the line level output on the first sub to the corresponding line level inputs on the second sub. Is that about right?

In the scenario I was posted about earlier, you would forget the sub output on your amp and simply run another set of speaker cables to the subs speaker level/high level inputs. So you will be running your 160's full range and using the sub to support where the 160 naturally rolls off. It's actually the simplest way (to me) and very effective at getting full range stereo sound.
 
Last edited:
Even if ported they can still be great for music, especially if running two in stereo. Dayton subs from Parts Express are excellent, their customer service is second to none, and they currently have their 8" on sale for $99. At that price the Dr says take two and call me in the morning. They also make for great speaker stands, and in this location integrate with the main's in a way the speaks retain their original sound, just bigger.

Now if the budget allows, my recommendation would be Rythmik.
 
Last edited:
In the scenario I was posted about earlier, you would forget the sub output on your amp and simply run another set of speaker cables to the subs speaker level/high level inputs. So you will be running your 160's full range and using the sub to support where the 160 naturally rolls off. It's actually the simplest way (to me) and very effective at getting full range stereo sound.

14080381-A659-4604-8CC3-A2AAFE971ED7.jpeg

Okay, so you’re saying that I would just double up on the speaker wires going into each of the speaker out terminals on the receiver and connect the extra set to the two subs at the “High Level In” terminals as marked in the above photo.

Would the two wires going to each sub attach to the red “L+” and “R+“ terminals, or the black “L-“ and “R-“ terminals?
 
Okay, so you’re saying that I would just double up on the speaker wires going into each of the speaker out terminals on the receiver and connect the extra set to the two subs at the “High Level In” terminals as marked in the above photo.

Would the two wires going to each sub attach to the red “L+” and “R+“ terminals, or the black “L-“ and “R-“ terminals?

Yep, exactly!

Speaker wires would go to one set of terminals on the sub; L+ & L- or R+ & R-
 
Back
Top Bottom