Yamaha CA-2010 Coupler Switch Replacement

mbz

Addicted Member
Running tests on refurb'd CA-2010, ran as separate/power amp. When completed reverted switch and
left channel was gone. Resistance measurement at coupler showed left was open and right channel
was 14ohms, not ideal but...

Gave it the magic spray but it wasn't much better. Decided to strip it down and give it a clean. Before and after picks below. No drama. Then thought that I'd better clean the DC/NORMAL switch, it was in same condition.
However during reassembly I bent one of the copper sliders. So I spend the next hour trying to recover the
slider, it's OK but was thinking what a waste of time. Did a quick search on Mouser, ALPS switches sell for
about $3-$4, for this you get a nice new/clean switch, no problems for years. The alternative is to strip the
switch down.

My question, does anyone know of a drop in replacement from mouser etc... Same issue on CA-800, 1000,
1010.Coupler_Before.JPG
Coupler_After.JPG
 
Certainly a jumper RCA cable will work however I'm reluctant to add anything to the signal path.

A while back I was given some "boutique" interconnects, then sometime later couldn't work out why the system sounded cr@ppy.
During testing had switched to another set of interconnect, surprised myself how much a difference they made.

Suppose what I'm saying is all coupler switches of this vintage need to be stripped down and cleaned. A quick spray may buy you some time.
Also, I'm too lazy to trawl through Mouser looking for the right part number...
 
Whats the difference.. A switch in the signal path or a jumper cable. Not much difference.
Yeah, fair point. A switch can be had for $3-$4, the interconnects more expensive and probably better performance.
I'd still like to track down the replacement part. Cleaning both switches and repair of the slider took about 2hours and switches are still not that clean.
Both switches could be replaced in 20-30minutes and no more problems in that area at least.
 
Pinout below, all holes 1mm dia, measurements +/-0.5mm. Switch depth is 10mm
Screw holes not shown, 20mm apart centered. Toggle is 4mmx7mmx12mm, approx 3mm throw.

Spent a few hours trawling, closest I found was
Mouser EG2201C
https://au.mouser.com/productdetail/e-switch/eg2201?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtHXLepoqNyVZDOWY7elTCOgU46DsKljLI=
Includes mounting holes, 4mm leg spacing but rows are only 2.5mm apart. No screw holes
Contact:Silver plated over copper alloy

I don't like the missing screw holes, also the need to bend legs. Looks like the best option is to carefully clean existing item.
Please don't spend any time on this.

Coupler.JPG
 
I went through a similar search for my 2010 and l couldn't find a suitable replacement switch. I ended up buying a complete pre out main in board from overseas because my switch had been pushed in during shipping (not when l bought but possibly previously) and it had damaged the board. If you run into real trouble with yours l could see if my old switch is salvageable?
 
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Thanks for the offer. Guess I was a bit miffed about how dirty it was and how easily damaged the sliders were, not to mention the time taken.
And for a few extra $$$'s I could get a new one, yep, dreaming, Mines working ok now, it only has to make point contact. A little off post but
the vocals seem very forward/dominant.
 
t how dirty it was and how easily damaged the sliders were, not to mention the time taken.
And thats the easiest slide switch to dismantle and clean.Most of the sliders I've been cleaning here lately have four or six sliders in them.
 
And for a few extra $$$'s I could get a new one

Yes l know how you feel, l think in this case Yamaha must have used one of the cheapest switches available, faily poor quality IMHO esp considering the rest of the amp. Yes they are rather forward sounding, what speakers are you using?
 
Yes they are rather forward sounding, what speakers are you using?

I'm using a set from little known Greg Osborn, the Epitome, probably Mk2 or 3??? They seem to handle the pace of the CA-2010
http://www.osbornloudspeakers.com.au/

I've never been big on spending money for boutique speaker/interconnects however I like his datalink/silver link cables.

I also have some altec speakers but that's another project...
 
I had a look at that site, they look like really well made speakers :thumbsup:, l don't have anything that nice unfortunately :(.

Do you think those interconnects make an audible difference over say a half decent $50-$100 pair?
 
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Do you think those interconnects make an audible difference over say a half decent $50-$100 pair?
Drifting way off post, but hey...

I got the spkrs as part of a package, valve power amp, pre, CDP and various cables. Interconnects included Neotech KHS124A and Kordz Vortex and a few others.
Now I'm sure that both Neotech and Kordz make some wonderful cables and maybe the two mentioned are entry level. The Kordz is horrible, the Neotech slightly
better. The Osborn noticeably better. Had the cables not been included in the package then there was no way I'd spend that sort of money on them. Now I can't
listen to music without them.

I've loaned my spare set (spkr&interconnect) to AKer elasticus, if your interested in a demo, they could take a trip up the road.
 
The Kordz is horrible,
Being a bit tough on the Kordz Vortex. I just gave them a quick demo, making sure I connected them up right (directional).
They sound OK. A While back noticed the music didn't sound right, had switched to the Vortex as a test, replaced them with the Osborn, problem fixed.
 
That is very interesting, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Aah yes makes it financially easier if you can get a package deal, nice score by the sounds of it.
 
Being a bit tough on the Kordz Vortex. I just gave them a quick demo, making sure I connected them up right (directional).
They sound OK. A While back noticed the music didn't sound right, had switched to the Vortex as a test, replaced them with the Osborn, problem fixed.

O.K so fairly noticeable then, good to know. I just use some decent quality Belkin's, the better ones not the cheaper type.
 
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