Any sub recommendations?

This is all helping immensely. Thank you. And yes, I do recall m6erfan’s instructions regarding the dual sub hook up. For a single sub installation via the high (speaker) level inputs, rather than sending two wires to each sub, would wires from all four speaker terminals (on the receiver) go to the four high level inputs on the sub?




That’s certainly a fair request. As it turns out, I included that particular image in my previous post because it corresponds to the controls contained on the back of the Rythmik F12, a sub which I’ve become intrigued by through the course of my brief research. I realize it more than doubles my stated budget, but the Christmas bonus was fairly generous this year ;) and it seems like, in addition to being a sealed unit, it has some other features, like being servo driven, that would lend itself very well to providing the crisp, clean bass enhancement that a strictly musically oriented listener might appreciate.
If you can swing the Rythmik then go for it. Servo subs have their detractors, but for music I can't recommend one highly enough. I've been using subs for close to four decades, servo controlled for almost three, still have both variations. All can be used to great affect, and my twin Dayton Sub 1200's rock with music, but the single servo unit is still better.

That's not to knock the Daytons, even with two the servo sub without correction for inflation was ten times the price of both, it should be better.
 
If you can swing the Rythmik then go for it. Servo subs have their detractors, but for music I can't recommend one highly enough. I've been using subs for close to four decades, servo controlled for almost three, still have both variations. All can be used to great affect, and my twin Dayton Sub 1200's rock with music, but the single servo unit is still better.

That's not to knock the Daytons, even with two the servo sub without correction for inflation was ten times the price of both, it should be better.

Thanks for the endorsement, Grenadeslio. The many reviews I’ve read - from actual reviewers and end users, rather than salesmen - leads me to believe that, while I could probably spend less and be quite happy with the result, the F12 is pretty close to a ‘can't miss’ in terms of 1) delivering clear, crisp musical fidelity, often times on a par with units costing much more and 2) in possessing the controls necessary to maximize the listening experience in a wide range of room configurations.

As for hooking up the receiver (which only has one set of speaker outputs) would I run wires from all four speaker outputs to all four line level inputs on the sub?
 
I use a JL Audio D110. IT is an awesome sub. Small but very powerful. It is sealed and integrates very well with my Harbeth speakers. Like others have said, if you integrate a sub well it does not call attention to itself, but the impact is very tangible. Sometimes it is surprising how different subs can be interns of quality. For me the JL Audio sub is very tight, precise and fast. I compared JL Audio and SVS and the JL sub was a clear winner. I have previously owned Paradigm and M&K subs. The JL Audio sub is head and shoulders better than those (in my system and room). Good, luck, take your time, and don't be afraid to spend a little more than you first wanted to. If you compromise too much, you will regret it and end up spending more to correct it.
 
As for hooking up the receiver (which only has one set of speaker outputs) would I run wires from all four speaker outputs to all four line level inputs on the sub?

+ and - from the speaker outputs to the "high" level inputs, not the line level. If your receiver has jumpers on the back connecting pre outs to main ins then these can be utilized with the subs "line level inputs", my preferred method, but many prefer using the speaker level inputs.
 
+ and - from the speaker outputs to the "high" level inputs, not the line level. If your receiver has jumpers on the back connecting pre outs to main ins then these can be utilized with the subs "line level inputs", my preferred method, but many prefer using the speaker level inputs.

Right, sorry. Meant to say high level inputs, not line level. My question though was do I double up my wires on all four speaker outputs from the receiver and send four to the mains and four to the high level inputs on the sub? I don’t believe my little receiver has any jumpers on the back.
 
Right, sorry. Meant to say high level inputs, not line level. My question though was do I double up my wires on all four speaker outputs from the receiver and send four to the mains and four to the high level inputs on the sub? I don’t believe my little receiver has any jumpers on the back.

Yes, the Rythmik doesn't appear to have high level outputs if I'm seeing it right. Below is a picture of the low level and high level inputs & outputs on the back of my Dayton Sub 1200's.

The outputs have a built in high pass set at 80hz if wanting to limit the main speakers low frequency requirements, this allows the mains to handle more power, but as you can see I'm not utilizing this option.

Many yrs of using subs has shown me I prefer my mains to do most of the heavy lifting with the sub just picking up where the mains fall short.

Don't worry that you can't use the low level inputs, many prefer using the high level inputs anyway. The sub in my music rm has the opposite setup, low level inputs & outputs but no high level inputs so less flexible for connecting to a receiver, it was aimed at the high end where separates dominate.

1515984813183519837269.jpg
 
Yes, the Rythmik doesn't appear to have high level outputs if I'm seeing it right. Below is a picture of the low level and high level inputs & outputs on the back of my Dayton Sub 1200's.

The outputs have a built in high pass set at 80hz if wanting to limit the main speakers low frequency requirements, this allows the mains to handle more power, but as you can see I'm not utilizing this option.

Many yrs of using subs has shown me I prefer my mains to do most of the heavy lifting with the sub just picking up where the mains fall short.

Don't worry that you can't use the low level inputs, many prefer using the high level inputs anyway. The sub in my music rm has the opposite setup, low level inputs & outputs but no high level inputs so less flexible for connecting to a receiver, it was aimed at the high end where separates dominate.

View attachment 1089358
My Dayton sub-1200's do not have a 80hz high pass on the speaker level outs. The pic you posted doesn't look like the amp on my sub-1200's either.

What version of Dayton sub 1200 do you have?
 
If I were to throw these four in the mix, is there any one that you guys feel stands head and shoulders above the rest when being used for music listening 100% of the time and HT use 0% of the time, in a 1500^3 carpeted room with soft furniture by a guy who likes classic rock and metal played with reference type precision?

1) Rythmik F12 - $940 shipped
12” woofer, sealed design, 370W RMS,
Optimized for the audiophile and the only one listed here to feature a servo sub. Some reviewers claim it’s very nearly the equal of many other more well known brands costing several times more. At the same time, it has the least powerful amp among the four, although I don’t know if the servo driver might enjoy any sort of advantage in efficiency.

2) HSU ULS-15 Mk2 - $854 shipped
15” woofer, sealed design, 600W RMS,
Optimized for the audiophile. Another one that is touted for being an excellent bargain and significantly outperforming its price point.

3) JL Audio d110 - $1000 shipped
10” woofer, sealed design, 750W RMS,
Most powerful amp, but smallest woofer in this lineup. I sometimes see people question the price point (value), but rarely the performance.

4) ELAC Debut S12EQ - $699 shipped
12” woofer, sealed design, 500W RMS,
Is relatively new, has good reviews and is interesting because of the unique auto EQ function that uses your smartphone as a calibrated mic to quickly optimize the output to best match any speaker placement - an especially attractive feature to me given the very limited number of placement options available in my listening room.
 
Yes, the Rythmik doesn't appear to have high level outputs if I'm seeing it right.

I believe the high level inputs on the Rythmik are situated there in the middle.

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My Dayton sub-1200's do not have a 80hz high pass on the speaker level outs. The pic you posted doesn't look like the amp on my sub-1200's either.

What version of Dayton sub 1200 do you have?
The model right before the current model, I purchased two at a discontinued price, $92 for the pair lol.

I like it's looks better, and the extra features not on the current model, but still feel the current model is a hell of a deal.
 
The model right before the current model, I purchased two at a discontinued price, $92 for the pair lol.

I like it's looks better, and the extra features not on the current model, but still feel the current model is a hell of a deal.
Wish they would have kept that as an option, switchable would have been great.
 
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