Marantz 2325 Loud noise in both speakers HELP!

I don't know if this is your problem, but the large green resistors on the power amps (R719 and R720) can get so hot that after a long time their solder joints can crack.
Sometimes this can even take out the 20V Zener diodes (H716 and H717).

I always replace these resistors with 3W Metal Oxide types and make sure that I solder them properly.

Tom
Thanks Tom -- I will definitely examine those too.

John
 
I suspect that the tantalum capacitor at C703 (33µF/6.3V) is failing; it can be replaced with a bipolar type (e.g., 33µF/25V Nichicon ES).
Thanks Leestereo -- Yeah, I forgot about those Tantalums. I read somewhere once that when they start to fail, they can cause all sorts of mischief. I'll order new ones tomorrow.

Thanks again -- John
 
Hi Guys -- Under closer inspection, the speaker protection relay appears to be pretty spent. Is there an exact replacement that requires no modifications for the 2325?

Thanks -- John
 
Hi Guys -- Under closer inspection, the speaker protection relay appears to be pretty spent. Is there an exact replacement that requires no modifications for the 2325?

Thanks -- John
Yes. Order from Mouser Electronics. Part #653-LY2-0-DC24 $7.55 Good luck with your project!
 
Yes. Order from Mouser Electronics. Part #653-LY2-0-DC24 $7.55 Good luck with your project!

While most 2325's use the LY relay wurlyman references, some 2325s use an MY relay. Be sure to check the spacing of the coil lugs on the old one. If they are in line with the contact lugs, it's an MY.

Tom
 
You may want to post a picture if you can, I'm working on a 2325 right now and replaced the original relay with the part wurlyman listed.
 
Ahh, looks like two leads are cut short, is this the original relay?
Are there eight holes in the PCB? If so you can use the suggested replacement as the extra two leads aren't used or in my case soldered.
 
The 2325 on my bench just got the LY relay. Things changed during the years of production so Tom is quite right to mention checking the pin spacing. (Of course!!)
 
My original relay was an LY and I replaced it with a new LY. It has 8 pins but only six are used.
ORIGINAL
_DSC0134.JPG

REPLACEMENT
_DSC0225.JPG
 
Ahh, looks like two leads are cut short, is this the original relay?
Are there eight holes in the PCB? If so you can use the suggested replacement as the extra two leads aren't used or in my case soldered.
There are only 6 holes on the PCB, which leaves me to believe that this is the original relay.

Thanks -- John
 
Judging by the photos I posted, do I need a LY or a MY relay?

John
It looks like it says MSJ on the top of your relay so you probably need the M model. Here's what the underside of my board looks like. You can see the two unused holes.
_DSC0221.JPG
You can also see the manufacture number in the center of the board. Does yours match this P800 board?
 
It looks like it says MSJ on the top of your relay so you probably need the M model. Here's what the underside of my board looks like. You can see the two unused holes.
View attachment 1098860
You can also see the manufacture number in the center of the board. Does yours match this P800 board?
Thanks Wurlyman! What is the actual part # for the M model?
 
I ordered a MY2-02-DC24 relay from Mouser today, I'll post an update when it arrives and is installed.

Thanks Everyone! -- John
 
Looking at the data sheet, the MY2-02 appears to have pcb pin type terminals instead of the perforated spade type. If so, it will work just fine. It will just be slightly trickier to solder to.
 
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