Marantz 2325 Loud noise in both speakers HELP!

Looking at the data sheet, the MY2-02 appears to have pcb pin type terminals instead of the perforated spade type. If so, it will work just fine. It will just be slightly trickier to solder to.
It appears that I'll have to shorten two of the pins, due to having only 6 holes on the PCB.

Thanks -- John
 
Looking at the data sheet, the MY2-02 appears to have pcb pin type terminals instead of the perforated spade type. If so, it will work just fine. It will just be slightly trickier to solder to.

The first LY that I ordered Steven had the perforated pins and they wouldn't go through the holes. I re-ordered LY2-0-24DC and it worked perfectly, just like other component pins. The difference was the 0 in the center of the part number.-Stu
 
The first LY that I ordered Steven had the perforated pins and they wouldn't go through the holes. I re-ordered LY2-0-24DC and it worked perfectly, just like other component pins. The difference was the 0 in the center of the part number.-Stu
Yep, I’ve had both kinds of boards. Now it’s just one of those things I look for before ordering a relay - wide spade terminals or narrow pin terminals. The data sheet will tell you the right version depending on terminal type and layout.
 
Hi All -- The relay and replacements for the tantalum capacitors have arrived and are installed, but the popping noise is still present. It seems to occur more often in the left channel than in the right. Any advice?


Thanks -- John
 
watching this with interest as Randy has my 2325 now and has a snapping condition as well. Symptoms do not sound similar however.

Good luck!
 
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Let me know what he found or how the issue was remedied.

Thanks -- John

Hi John,

I likely will not get any feedback from Randy til the end of the month. He had a number of projects ahead of mine and I am not in any particular rush either.
As I said, your symptoms and observations are similar but not the same as mine, even if he nails down a cause it may not be (and likely isn't) your issue.

Geoff
 
Are these Klipsch speakers at higher volume??

Even though the popping is independent on each channel,
I would recommend reflowing all solder joints on the Power Supply and checking the big copper inductor coil solder joints on the mains.
I have seen ends so loose they can be pulled out.
That goes for any leg that moves while gently massaging the parts above.

Look at every solder joint with a magnifying glass for a ring or deterioration around the legs and if possible, turn off the lights and watch the tracks for sparks when it pops.
 
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I had not heard any popping from Geoff's 2325 so as to be able to pinpoint it. I've had issues with the small buffer board about in the center of the bottom of the chassis so always rebuild this with not only new electrolytics, but replace the double diode with two 1N4148's in series and replace all of the transistors. I will post the subs used later when I'm at home to access the info.

Being too lazy to go back and look, has anyone suggested connecting the left preamp output to the right main amp input and vice versa on the other channel to isolate where the fault is, amp module or preamp side? If the noise is still on the same channel it's the amp. If the noise goes away it may be that the switching contacts on the preamp out jacks are dirty. They can be permanently bypassed by the use of short RCA to RCA cables. Do not use any unshielded "u bars" here.
 
I had not heard any popping from Geoff's 2325 so as to be able to pinpoint it. I've had issues with the small buffer board about in the center of the bottom of the chassis so always rebuild this with not only new electrolytics, but replace the double diode with two 1N4148's in series and replace all of the transistors. I will post the subs used later when I'm at home to access the info.

Being too lazy to go back and look, has anyone suggested connecting the left preamp output to the right main amp input and vice versa on the other channel to isolate where the fault is, amp module or preamp side? If the noise is still on the same channel it's the amp. If the noise goes away it may be that the switching contacts on the preamp out jacks are dirty. They can be permanently bypassed by the use of short RCA to RCA cables. Do not use any unshielded "u bars" here.
Hi -- I actually have the red RCA's that connect directly to the modules unplugged. I never bothered to plug them back in after changing parts, but the popping is still present and is more frequent in the left channel than in the right.

Thanks -- John
 
The module depends on that RCA connection to make ground I believe but it is not why you have popping. It does seem that it's the amp module then. It absolutely can be those transistors or any other or a diode. You can always swap the transistors from good channel to bad to check that and sometimes it's the only way to figure out the bad guy. One thing I always do is change out the front end pair of transistors AKA the differential pair as any noise in them gets very much magnified. They should be gain (hFE) matched for best results in setting the dc offset and likely lowering the distortion a hair or two.
 
The module depends on that RCA connection to make ground I believe but it is not why you have popping. It does seem that it's the amp module then. It absolutely can be those transistors or any other or a diode. You can always swap the transistors from good channel to bad to check that and sometimes it's the only way to figure out the bad guy. One thing I always do is change out the front end pair of transistors AKA the differential pair as any noise in them gets very much magnified. They should be gain (hFE) matched for best results in setting the dc offset and likely lowering the distortion a hair or two.
Thanks for the advice. The differential pairs have already been changed along with the rest of the TO-92 transistors on both boards, that just leaves the larger transistors and diodes as the possible culprits. I'll have to swap parts around like you advised.

Thanks -- John
 
R719 and R720 can get so hot that the 'de-solder' themselves from the circuit board. I replace them with 1.2KΩ 3Watt metal oxide film types leaving the leads long. If you leave a little lead (say 1/16 of and inch) protruding through the solder side of the board, you can make a better solder joint. I have seen this make a 'popping' noise and take out the 20V zener diodes, H716 and H717 (1N5932B). I mount new ones up off the board as the leads form part of the heat sink.

2325 RPA.jpg 2325 RPA.jpg

Tom
 
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R719 and R720 can get so hot that the 'de-solder' themselves from the circuit board. I replace them with 1.2KΩ 3Watt metal oxide film types leaving the leads long. If you leave a little lead (say 1/16 of and inch) protruding through the solder side of the board, you can make a better solder joint. I have seen this make a 'popping' noise and take out the 20V zener diodes, H716 and H717 (2N5932B). I mount new ones up off the board as the leads form part of the heat sink.

View attachment 1111296 View attachment 1111296

Tom
Hi Tom -- I haven't had to replace any resistors as of yet, but I did reflow all the solder joints on both of the module boards.

Thanks -- John
 
John,
I took Tom's advise and replaced those two resistors as he recommended and my unit runs beautifully. Very happy with it.


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