A-700 Restore

No.... 4.7KΩ 1/4 watt probably flameproof carbon film. Not a fusible per say.
Post a photo of it..
Look at the schematics legend. for the resistor type identification chart. Lower left side grid F-G / 1.
 
Unless specified in the schematic.or parts list. Its a 1/4 watt carbon film.
 
That's just a normal carbon film 1/4w.
Color code matches 4.7kΩ as you said.

You can use this.
The wattage isn't too important for resistors other than the fusible/flameproof ones (where it's more critical).
For the normal carbon film resistors as long as the wattage is equal or greater (and the dimensions are the same) you're good to go.
 
Trying to determine what wattage resistor to get to replace R271, View attachment 1131939
4.7k ohm
70.7v
.1 watt

I used the voltage and resistance indicated on the schematic did the math using the calc and cane up with .1
Do I order a .1 watt or is there a rule to follow?
This tip was only for fusibles with given resistance and current ie milliamps.. Thats it..End of story.. I don't see any so far in the A-700 schematic.
 
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That's just a normal carbon film 1/4w.
Color code matches 4.7kΩ as you said.

You can use this.
The wattage isn't too important for resistors other than the fusible/flameproof ones (where it's more critical).
For the normal carbon film resistors as long as the wattage is equal or greater (and the dimensions are the same) you're good to go.

Thank you, I’m starting to get a little understanding about how to navigate around. It would help if I printed that schematic. I will work on that tomorrow. I really appreciate your help
 
The fusibles in this unit. Will be standing elevated above the board. Either on end like the greenish ones. Or length wise. But above the board.
 
This tip was only for fusibles with given resistance and current .. Thats it..End of story.. I don't see any so far in the A-700 schematic.

Ok my misunderstanding, it’s good for me to re read some posts. Also thanks for nudging me to look at the schematic that’s what I need to be doing more of
 

The things you mention about the flickering lamps is pretty abnormal, I'd have some BAV-21 diodes handy in case the single one on the rectifier/fuse board has gone bad. I had a similar issue with an A-720 in this thread, but your issue sounds different again so may not be the same thin

I’ll add some BAV-21’s to my order, after looking at some of these solder joints I’m surprised I had sound at all
 
The following are all the corroded parts I’m going to replace.
R271 cfr
R338-341 mfr
R373 cfr
R367-369 cfr
R274 cfr
D149,D150

I have one corroded flameproof resistor I’m having trouble finding a part number for, its R335 22ohm one of the standing with turquoise leads. Any help would be welcome and I will be able to submit the order.

I’m using carbon film 1/4 watt on all with the exception of the metal film R338-341 that @zaibatsu was so kind to link the part no.

The zeners are also from a link from zaibatsu.

I’ve added the bav21 diodes to my order as suggested.

I did receive the mk-168 transistor tester from China that I ordered off eBay for cheap, recommended on another post and tested a 2sc3370 transistor out of circuit with these results
NPN 123=ECB
B=67 uf=538mv
What do these numbers tell me?
 
You can use this for your 22Ω (fusible, flameproof). It's 1/3W instead of 1/4W but close enough.
Everything else sounds good.

On your tester:
B = beta = hFE (gain)
Uf = Vf (forward voltage, same as you would read on your meter in diode test mode)

Be careful with those output transistors, they can't be replaced in exact spec anymore.

Also, to echo what OMGCat said earlier, be careful with those bias transistors that were mounted on the heatsink. The legs are usually brittle with heat cycling and any bending can crack them and take out the output stage from thermal runaway. It's probably worth adding 2x BD135-16S to replace them in future, just leave them for now if they are intact, but for the future if you start poking around in there to recap etc.
 
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