You can use this for your 22Ω (fusible, flameproof). It's 1/3W instead of 1/4W but close enough.
Everything else sounds good.
On your tester:
B = beta = hFE (gain)
Uf = Vf (forward voltage, same as you would read on your meter in diode test mode)
Be careful with those output transistors, they can't be replaced in exact spec anymore.
Also, to echo what OMGCat said earlier, be careful with those bias transistors that were mounted on the heatsink. The legs are usually brittle with heat cycling and any bending can crack them and take out the output stage from thermal runaway. It's probably worth adding 2x BD135-16S to replace them in future, just leave them for now if they are intact, but for the future if you start poking around in there to recap etc.
Be careful if soldering any polystyrene capacitors. They won't tolerate much heat from your solder tip. I'm not familiar with the A-700. But I would imagine there are a few.will give me a couple days to keep cleaning up the solder joints
I do the same as you are for solder work, go until I feel fatigued and then lay off. If you keep pushing that's just asking for mistakes.
I wouldn't worry about being slow. To do this job properly takes a lot of time and if you rush you will just have to go back in there anyway.
I'm going through one of my A-1000s right now and have about 8 hours into it and I haven't even removed all of the old parts yet. So far it's been cleaning, removing glue and retouching joints.
I've been unlucky as far as glue on the film caps though. Two of them are pretty much a fuzzy mess with one having had the solder turn into some sort of dust that was a giant pain to remove.
The phono stage is really nice in this amp. I'm not running any crazy setup but with my Signet Tk5e/AT120lc combo it sounds very nice.
To my ears it's pretty comparable to the stage in the C-80 though you don't have any loading options. I haven't tried to do any improvements on it as the best improvement for me would probably be to get a nicer table and cart.
If there fastened to,or pressed against a heatsink.... Yes.2 smaller transistors need heat sink compound?
So I’m beginning to put together an order for caps. Shewee what a task... anyway the information you provided is absolutely valuable and thank you!! A few questions to start.Excellent work.
Let us know how it sounds.
Did you end up building a DBT?
For the recap, my suggestions are below for key locations.
Power amp board:
100uF x4: Nichicon KZ 100uF 25V (C179-182)
330uF x4: Nichicon KZ 330uF 50V (out of stock, but digikey has them)
1000uF x2: Nichicon KZ 1000uF 50V
680uF x2: Chemicon GPD 750uF 80V or Chemicon GVD 820uF 80V
For the phono board:
47uF x2: Nichicon ES (bi-polar) 47uF 50V
1000uF x2: Nichicon KZ 1000uF 25V
Notes:
- Both Nichicon and Chemicon 680uFs always measure way below spec, hence recommending 750uF or 820uF for replacement (even the 750s measure ~690).
- I've gone up a voltage rating where possible, so that the caps match the stock footprint. I recommend this as it brings ripple current closer to factory intention.
- For remaining caps, doesn't really matter what you use - my recommendation would be Nichicon PW / HE (both 105* rated and relatively cheap). If there are any 6.3V ones, bump those to 10V or 25V (if diameter allows): will have lower ESR and last longer.
- If you want to spend more, you can use Wima MKS2 film caps for smaller values, just make sure the voltage is high enough per parts list (50-63V is fine for most, but there's 4x 2.2uF 100V near the front, C227-C230, electrolytics are easiest for those) and that physical fit is OK. There's 4x B.P. 2.2uF (2x 25V, 2x 50V) you can use these MKS2 for.
- Most people replace the trimmer resistors on a rebuild (up to you), Bourns single turns or multiturns both work fine. Multiturns are nice for the idle adjustment. @OMGCat! might be able to tell you the part number as he did this task more recently than I, there's a version with longer legs that is easier to mount.
- If you didn't order them already, to replace the two bias transistors (2SD-400), I use 2x BD135-16S. I can post a pic of how I mounted them, care is needed with polarity / orientation.
• you suggest nichicon pw/he, I understand nichicon as manufacturer what does the pw/he mean? How do I ensure that’s what I order.