Nukedstereo
New Member
What was your lead spacing? I took a quick measurement at 20mm is that correct?
Can you link that post.. The only reason I can think of is by-passing with a small film cap. To dump diode switching noise to ground.I saw in some of the previous post you suggested putting another capacitor in parallel with the filter caps. Why is this?
So I went a slightly different route with the filter caps -- basically what I mentioned in the first post on this page. And you know what? It worked beautifully! What you see sticking out in the first two pics are these. You just clip the lug ring to expand it a bit (so it fits the cap screws), then align the lugs and bend them up over the screw to approximate the original off-center lug positions, and they slip right in the board! Because of the screw terminals, you need to give the caps a little extra clearance at the bottom, which you can kind of see in the third pic.
The filter caps are some nice EPCOS with very low impedance and ESR and very high ripple current capacity. The price was cheaper than the KG's would have been through Percy, plus the shipping was cheaper, plus I was able to add some interesting crossover caps as well!
Now the amp is done, the Class B bias is good, and I'm enjoying the results!
What do you guys think about the nichicon Muse series caps? Im looking at these for the big filter cap 493-14703-ND or 338-1990-ND any feedback?
Definitely, go for the first one (Nichi KG's). They have the original diameter, so the aesthetics are correct. You only have to widen the holes in the PCB and / or snip a bit off the lugs (I did both a bit). I have installed similair CDE's (second link) in my B-2 and I ended up replacing them with Nichi KG's. The fitment of the CDE's was not correct. You have to snip off 3 legs and then you end up with two flimsy snap-in legs which are not aligned in the same position as the original lugs. They also made the bass the B-2 produced a bit boomy.
My opinion on the Mundorfs: they are too small (30mm dia), so aesthetically it doesn't look too great and the original bracket doesn't fit anymore.
Bypassing is a good idea, but don't forget to solder them securely and don't leave 'm like shown above
Damn, too late.Thanks Mr. Yamaha. I ended up ordering the KG's as well as all the new caps to re-cap the power supply board as well. For C417/418 (330uf 63V) 493-12049-1-ND, C415/416 (220uf 80V) 493-11103-ND, C419/420/C427/C428 (47uf 80V) 493-11811-1-ND, C425/426 (1uf 50V) UKL1H010KDDANA-ND, C401 (220uf 25V) 493-11634-1-ND, C403 (22uf 25v) 493-14482-ND, C402/C406 (100uf 16V) 493-15610-ND, C411/412 (10uf 50V bi-polar) 493-10249-1-ND, C409/410 (2.2uf 25V Bi-polar) 338-3591-ND, Main filter caps I ordered the 493-14703-ND and to finish it off two new relays. Time start making the CA-1010 sound good again. If you guys see anything that you think I should change let me know. Thanks
...What caps do you guys suggest for bypassing?
Concur..Anything between 1 and 2.2 uF will be fine
Boy I sure don't remember that.. I usually go for a 2.2µf..I spotted that avionic cranked it up to the 6~7 uF
-Ive ordered 16 1N4148FS-ND to replace all 8 VD1212/H64R, is that the correct amount? 2 on function c board, 4 on Tone board, 2 on main board R/L are there any missing VD1212/H64R's I haven't accounted for?
-Any recommendations for thermal grease? I was just going to use CPU thermal compound...
Arctic Silver ? If so .. bad idea. Arctic silver ceramique is OK. Some of that CPU crap is electrically conductive.I was just going to use CPU thermal compound...
Thanks! Have you updated the lights on the CA-1010's to Leds?That should suffice then..