Yamaha CA-1010

Thanks Avionic. I saw in some of the previous post you suggested putting another capacitor in parallel with the filter caps. Why is this?
 
I saw in some of the previous post you suggested putting another capacitor in parallel with the filter caps. Why is this?
Can you link that post.. The only reason I can think of is by-passing with a small film cap. To dump diode switching noise to ground.
 
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Sorry Avionic I miss read the post but this is what I found. Seem like something I should do?

So I went a slightly different route with the filter caps -- basically what I mentioned in the first post on this page. And you know what? It worked beautifully! What you see sticking out in the first two pics are these. You just clip the lug ring to expand it a bit (so it fits the cap screws), then align the lugs and bend them up over the screw to approximate the original off-center lug positions, and they slip right in the board! Because of the screw terminals, you need to give the caps a little extra clearance at the bottom, which you can kind of see in the third pic.

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The filter caps are some nice EPCOS with very low impedance and ESR and very high ripple current capacity. The price was cheaper than the KG's would have been through Percy, plus the shipping was cheaper, plus I was able to add some interesting crossover caps as well!

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Now the amp is done, the Class B bias is good, and I'm enjoying the results!

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What do you guys think about the nichicon Muse series caps? Im looking at these for the big filter cap 493-14703-ND or 338-1990-ND any feedback?

Definitely, go for the first one (Nichi KG's). They have the original diameter, so the aesthetics are correct. You only have to widen the holes in the PCB and / or snip a bit off the lugs (I did both a bit). I have installed similair CDE's (second link) in my B-2 and I ended up replacing them with Nichi KG's. The fitment of the CDE's was not correct. You have to snip off 3 legs and then you end up with two flimsy snap-in legs which are not aligned in the same position as the original lugs. They also made the bass the B-2 produced a bit boomy.

My opinion on the Mundorfs: they are too small (30mm dia), so aesthetically it doesn't look too great and the original bracket doesn't fit anymore.

Bypassing is a good idea, but don't forget to solder them securely and don't leave 'm like shown above :p
 
Definitely, go for the first one (Nichi KG's). They have the original diameter, so the aesthetics are correct. You only have to widen the holes in the PCB and / or snip a bit off the lugs (I did both a bit). I have installed similair CDE's (second link) in my B-2 and I ended up replacing them with Nichi KG's. The fitment of the CDE's was not correct. You have to snip off 3 legs and then you end up with two flimsy snap-in legs which are not aligned in the same position as the original lugs. They also made the bass the B-2 produced a bit boomy.

My opinion on the Mundorfs: they are too small (30mm dia), so aesthetically it doesn't look too great and the original bracket doesn't fit anymore.

Bypassing is a good idea, but don't forget to solder them securely and don't leave 'm like shown above :p

Copy that.
I am not fitting Mercedes parts in my Datsun 240Z either !
If you want the vintage Yamaha experience/ownership, stay we replacements parts from inside the family, IMHO.
 
Thanks Mr. Yamaha. I ended up ordering the KG's as well as all the new caps to re-cap the power supply board as well. For C417/418 (330uf 63V) 493-12049-1-ND, C415/416 (220uf 80V) 493-11103-ND, C419/420/C427/C428 (47uf 80V) 493-11811-1-ND, C425/426 (1uf 50V) UKL1H010KDDANA-ND, C401 (220uf 25V) 493-11634-1-ND, C403 (22uf 25v) 493-14482-ND, C402/C406 (100uf 16V) 493-15610-ND, C411/412 (10uf 50V bi-polar) 493-10249-1-ND, C409/410 (2.2uf 25V Bi-polar) 338-3591-ND, Main filter caps I ordered the 493-14703-ND and to finish it off two new relays. Time start making the CA-1010 sound good again. If you guys see anything that you think I should change let me know. Thanks
 
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Thanks Mr. Yamaha. I ended up ordering the KG's as well as all the new caps to re-cap the power supply board as well. For C417/418 (330uf 63V) 493-12049-1-ND, C415/416 (220uf 80V) 493-11103-ND, C419/420/C427/C428 (47uf 80V) 493-11811-1-ND, C425/426 (1uf 50V) UKL1H010KDDANA-ND, C401 (220uf 25V) 493-11634-1-ND, C403 (22uf 25v) 493-14482-ND, C402/C406 (100uf 16V) 493-15610-ND, C411/412 (10uf 50V bi-polar) 493-10249-1-ND, C409/410 (2.2uf 25V Bi-polar) 338-3591-ND, Main filter caps I ordered the 493-14703-ND and to finish it off two new relays. Time start making the CA-1010 sound good again. If you guys see anything that you think I should change let me know. Thanks
Damn, too late.
I'm afraid the KGs will be too tall to fit in. Do we talk 80V? I remember considering some KGs and they were too tall.
I had to go for Nippons for this reason, 22000uF/80V. These were a bit slimmer but just right height.
OOPS MIX UP. It was CA-1000. For CA-1010 KGs fitted well, just had to snip the lugs a bit on sides.
 
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Damn, too late.
I'm afraid the KGs will be too tall to fit in. Do we talk 80V? I remember considering some KGs and they were too tall.
I had to go for Nippons for this reason, 22000uF/80V. These were a bit slimmer but just right height.

22.000 uF / 80V ;)

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Nice...Mr. Yamaha, I got the power-supply board re-capped, both relays replaced and the main filter caps are going tomorrow (took a file and filed the lugs down a bit to get them to fit super snug...What caps do you guys suggest for bypassing? Ill be posting the caps I ordered and the lead spacing as well once Im all done.
 
...What caps do you guys suggest for bypassing?

Anything between 1 and 2.2 uF will be fine, polyprop film cap like Panasonic ECW-F, though I spotted that avionic cranked it up to the 6~7 uF region in a previous project somewhere....

I use the same series to replace all rectifier snubber caps, normally fitting perfectly well in Yammie amps of this era.
 
-Ive ordered 16 1N4148FS-ND to replace all 8 VD1212/H64R, is that the correct amount? 2 on function c board, 4 on Tone board, 2 on main board R/L are there any missing VD1212/H64R's I haven't accounted for?
-Any recommendations for thermal grease? I was just going to use CPU thermal compound...
 
You might be thinking of one of my photos. I believe I used some 6.8uf that I had laying around. I've always felt the bigger the bypass, the better (for filter caps at least).

-Ive ordered 16 1N4148FS-ND to replace all 8 VD1212/H64R, is that the correct amount? 2 on function c board, 4 on Tone board, 2 on main board R/L are there any missing VD1212/H64R's I haven't accounted for?
-Any recommendations for thermal grease? I was just going to use CPU thermal compound...

You need to make very sure it's non-conductive. Not all of them are. I use Mouser 567-120-2.
 
I was going to use Zalman Thermal grease zm-stg1 it says "The composition is dielectric (electrically nonconducting) to prevent electrical hazards and complies with the RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) standards for the highest level of safety."..I will definitely make sure its good to go before applying it...Thanks cdfac and Avionic
 
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