I like the Fluke 77 so much that when I saw a 79/III true RMS on ebay for €80 I just bought it. Having a total of 3 multimeters going forward will be a real luxury.
Cheers,
James
Cheers,
James
I see the new power supply is being put to good use. That power button looks really good, l think they naturally lose some of the orange pigment out of the plastic button over time, mine is the same.
Warm white - cool white -- still to bright for that orange colored grommet. I've been using amber colored " water clear" diodes.
Seams have been a lot of progress here James, pretty glad to see your hard work is giving good results, as should be.
Cheers,
Rodolfo
Yes..Do you have a Mouser reference for what you've been using?
Yes..
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Broadcom-Avago/HLMP-EL30-PS000?qs=/ha2pyFaduiw5sJ8R5A4bPWPjjhg2qWXA187RjEn6dwFFz4gqPrwnSuQBpRJnYLK
I sand the rounded dome flat with a belt sander.
The binding posts look really nice. Nice and clean, they look almost like originals from an AX series amp.
How does the M-50 sound? I got many years of enjoyment out of mine. One of the dumbest things that I ever did was get rid of it. After 3 months of on/off working on the 70 I'm starting to get seriously ready to listen to it.
The panel cutout for the inputs works as far as width goes (need 11mm, is 12mm) but the vertical distance won't. Need about 30mm but have 26mm. The problem is that the insulating bushings and fixing ring have too large of a diameter. I would need to file (etc) the slot longer to make this work and I really don't want to make any such attacks on the case.
Because of the overall diameter of the posts I decided to make an adapter plate to mount to the inside of the case to support the posts. I made that today and it turned out well. I'll make a complete explanation tomorrow but in the mean time here is a teaser photo.
The amber LEDs I posted.View attachment 1162065
Nice work on the panel, looks familiar to me from a few days ago, haha. I had to trim a couple of mm of the bottom of my binding post panel because l didn't allow for the little right angle part of the inner frame because l had the main rear panel off.
Here is a photo of the power light on the C-50, it is noticeably more orange than that on the M-50. I replaced the globes in both. I said in an earlier post that the button loses it's orange colour, l meant the little rubber boots. Strange thing is that l pulled the boot out of the C-50 completely to inspect and it isn't orange at all but rather a cream colour.
I was a but worried that I had measured correctly and in the end came very close to having to file off some of the bottom of the plate. It fits but just barely. I used 3mm thick aluminum because I wanted it to be thick enough to drill and tap M-3 holes for the mounting screws. That worked but if I was to make another one I would make the plate 1mm shorter, it just barely passes above the main PCB.
The power switch boot in the M-70 is also cream colored. I'm guessing that the light bulb is also just yellow enough that when combined one ends up with the yellow power light.
So the binding posts are mounted, the pcb has been re-flowed, de-fluxed, inspected and re-installed. The heat sinks and pre-drive board are back in and everything re-soldered.