CR-2020 Repair Advice

@avionic - did you see the service bulletins re. fusible changes ?

My first thought was to completely agree with your fusibles comments - but, there are a couple of service bulletins on the hifiengine site specifically making the changes (more or less) as Sajjad's made.
Service bulletins are to replace 2 each 22 Ω/3.25 watt and 2 each 33Ω/3.25 watt. As well as rewire the convience AC plug. And replace the power supply pass transistors. I've done all three mods many many times.
 
22 and 10 ohm each to 5 watt.

@avionic - did you see the service bulletins re. fusible changes ?

My first thought was to completely agree with your fusibles comments - but, there are a couple of service bulletins on the hifiengine site specifically making the changes (more or less) as Sajjad's made.

Those two were not part of the service bulletin.

And personally I would not have used 5 watt resistors for the service bulletin. There is very limited space where the 22Ω & 33Ω ( service bulletin) reside and the 22 Ω's are suppose to be fusible as well.
http://sportsbil.com/yamaha/cr-2020-servbull1.pdf
http://sportsbil.com/yamaha/cr-2020-servbull2.pdf
http://sportsbil.com/yamaha/cr-2020-servbull3.pdf
 
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Sorry avionic - I most certainly didn't mean to question your experience in any way, quite the opposite - I was simply confused by the earlier reference to 22R max 1/2W (post #3), I took that to refer to what was needed for FR801 & FR802, not what was being replaced.... and subsequently 'lost the plot'.... good job there's a Dr. in the house :)
 
At least take a look at the caps in the protect circuit..
I have finally got the protection circuit board recapped. Good news is relay is clicking, but still there is no sound. The relay is clicking immediately when I flick the switch, it is not clicking like it should. I have checked capacitors twice, they are in right polarity. Where have I gone wrong can you please guide me? Thanks
 
Check your coupler switch position on the rear panel as well as your speaker selector switch on the front panel.
 
Look over your solder connections for solder bridging. The relay driver transistor may be shorted E-C.(TR702)
spot on, cleared the solder bridge and now back to square 1, lights are back on, signal quality meter has gone back to zero, but no relay click and no sound.
 
Need to check the output of each amplifier for the presents of DC voltage.

I have checked and readings are as follows
Speaker selector switch to A-- and measuring voltages on speaker A terminals L+R = 0 volts
However
When I put the probes on speaker B or C it reads -28 mV
And
When I select speaker selector switch to B or C the reading goes back to zero
 
Speaker selector switch to A-- and measuring voltages on speaker A terminals L+R = 0 volts
However
Can't use the speaker terminals if the relay is not clicking. Have to measure the output on each amplifier board before the protect relay.
 
Top edge of each board has a lug marked O and E. O is output and E is ground. Measure the voltage across these two teminals.

Do not short these two terminals together or you will destroy your output transistors.
 
Need to check TR702 and TR706 out of circuit prefered.
 
@avionic you are the man. In the following thread you mentioned capacitor was installed incorrectly and I had the same issue.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/yamaha-cr-2020-help.663359/page-2
Now when I switch on the receiver relay clicks after 10 or so seconds (quite long time). BUT still no sound.
I removed each and every transistor off the relay board and checked with transistor checker, they all check fine. I have also Re soldered the whole board. IMG_0920.JPG IMG_0920.JPG IMG_0919.JPG IMG_0920.JPG IMG_0919.JPG IMG_0918.JPG IMG_0923.JPG IMG_0923.JPG IMG_0927.JPG IMG_0931.JPG IMG_0920.JPG IMG_0919.JPG IMG_0918.JPG IMG_0923.JPG IMG_0923.JPG IMG_0927.JPG IMG_0931.JPG I get no reading neither between TP1 and 0 nor 0 and E on both amplifier boards.
 
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