The bent fork is likely the result of reinstalling the meter movement into its plastic cover without making sure the post (if it's there) in the adjustment screw lines up between the prongs of the fork.
The catch...if the meters are glued in, the adjustment screw is inaccessible.
Best you can do is straighten the fork. Set the zero position, set the adjustment screw from INSIDE the plastic housing and hope everything lines up when reassembled. Meter movements need to be handled with near watchmaker's precision, so be gentle.
Not sure why these meters are glued in. My 1010 also have glued in meters but this is not mentioned in the service manual.
I agree, but that would still be on the front panel and got affected by knocking vibration. The ideal scenario, if I could predict this crap, would be to remove meter assembly BEFOREIts much easier to unsolder the meter wires at the circuit board. And just leave the meters glued to the front panel.
No.. Disagree. Ideally checking for the fuse first. There was most likely nothing wrong with the OEM LED.I agree, but that would still be on the front panel and got affected by knocking vibration. The ideal scenario, if I could predict this crap, would be to remove meter assembly BEFORE
banging on the aluminum next to it. Is it possible to check for broken coil wires within assembly?
That is what I was expecting as well but AFTER replacing the fuse, meter light were working fine but OEM LED was not . Only then I replaced it with new LED and created this mess.No.. Disagree. Ideally checking for the fuse first. There was most likely nothing wrong with the OEM LED.
I've never found a burnt out LED in that app. I have found physically broken LED's there. They still illuminated just the little pin was broken off and no longer shining out the front panel.Always a first for everything.That is what I was expecting as well but AFTER replacing the fuse, meter light were working fine but OEM LED was not . Only then I replaced it with new LED and created this mess.
As Murphy`s law in my signature said...I wish I had not followed that rule.
Damage has been done already, I double checked OEM LED now when it is out and guess what - bastard works! So you are right little pin was probably broken but now it is too late to turn the clock back.I've never found a burnt out LED in that app. I have found physically broken LED's there. They still illuminated just the little pin was broken off and no longer shining out the front panel.Always a first for everything.
Thanks for the advice but accessing the meter was never a problem. The meter assembly goes easily out from the plastic shell which stays glued to the front plate. Adjuster just happens to have fork shape but that is irrelevant to needle position.I wonder, is there any way to adjust the meter's rest position with them glued in place? @willyrover might be right about the fork being bent by the (not accessible adjuster screw), because the fork look deformed. There may be a adjustment screw at the front of the meter assembly which is not accessible in this unit due to them being glued onto the faceplate. For instance, the B-2 has holes on the faceplate to access the adjustment screws.
Thanks, how about CA-810 looks the same to me?CA-2010 has the same meters Yamaha P/N Ji000440..
They look a bit smaller (not sure) and the scale is different.Thanks, how about CA-810 looks the same to me?
I have just looked closely, yes scale on 1010 shows extra mV reading at the bottom, but meter size seems to be the same.They look a bit smaller (not sure) and the scale is different.
Thanks, how about CA-810 looks the same to me?
I'm not sure whether you can compare it like that, because the faceplate of the 1010 is larger than the one of the 810 (435x160 mm VS. 461x170 mm).I have just looked closely, yes scale on 1010 shows extra mV reading at the bottom, but meter size seems to be the same.
Left meter`s front plate window cutoff starts and ends at the same points relative to the lettering above.
That is why I was using the Yamaha logo and lettering (which should be the same size) as a reference, will see if one pops up for sale. Improving my chances to get one .I'm not sure whether you can compare it like that, because the faceplate of the 1010 is larger than the one of the 810 (435x160 mm VS. 461x170 mm).
(which should be the same size)