see aboverestore the finish ?
What do you mean ?
Front panels are anodized !!! Top,bottom and rear covers are painted.(M2/T2/C4 etc)?
T-2 body is completely anodized, except the bottom ;-)Front panels are anodized !!! Top,bottom and rear covers are painted.
T-2 is extruded anodized aluminum like the C-2's.T-2 body is completely anodized, except the bottom ;-)
Correct.T-2 is extruded anodized aluminum like the C-2's.
so are the side panels of B-1...T-2 is extruded anodized aluminum like the C-2's.
@amr2 : Would you mind sharing your process or the name of the firm who did the work for you? Thanks, SYes. I have re-anodized some damaged parts and also new machined parts.
For the silk screening I've been looking at uv paint printers since they also print white. The problem is price, maybe for a business but not yet there for a hobbyist. These uv printers are used to print custom art on the backs of smart phones so the paint is very durable. Of course you can just teach yourself silk screening, which is more affordable(but requires more space).The old finish must be removed (some thickness is lost in the process) before the new anodized is applied again. The finish can be matte, gloss, brushed...
The restoration of the silk-screen print is usually more problematic...
looks fantastic. I dig the black version much more than the originalIt can certainly be redone. I just went through this process last month. Re-anodizing the part will not remove a scratch if it's more than about .001" deep -stripping the original anodizing will remove about that much base metal. The anodizing builds about half of that back. Reanodizing - especially if you dye it black - will make a very fine scratch virtually unnoticeable. As said - if the lettering was originally screen printed that will likely be a deal-breaker. I had two Kenwoods redone in black. These both have stamped lettering so refilling the lettering was a piece of cake. The cost for each was $60 at a local anodizing shop. The hard part is finding a shop that will take on small projects and do quality work. The process was to take it to them and have the original anodizing stripped. Take it back home and prepare the metal and polish to my liking, then return it for anodize/dye/seal. A bit more info here http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/kenwood-model-650-rescue.818794/
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Thanks for the kind words! I was actually floored by how well it turned out - looks even better in person.
...and don't picture me sitting there with a one-bristle brush carefully filling in each letter. I just daubed on some paint and quickly wiped off the excess with an acetone (polish remover) dampened paper towel. Worked in small sections and it took about two hours including breaks.Some spots I had to go over a couple times. The only 'tough' part was the big KENWOOD logo and the tree emblem, as the towel tended to scour out the fresh lacquer.