CA-1000 Power Supply Caps

bobschneider

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I’m rebuilding a CA-1000 integrated amp I just purchased, and am having trouble tracking down replacements for the main power supply caps. The originals are 18,000uF 63V and are 50mm diameter and 80mm long, and there’s not room to fit larger ones in the amp. They also have solder tabs soldered into a PCB, although I think I could make snap in caps work.

Neither Mouser nor Digikey have a cap which will physically fit and meets these ratings. The closest I’ve found is a Nichicon “Super Through” from Parts Connexion, which is an exact physical fit (including the solder tabs) and 63V, but only 10,000uF. This is Nichicon’s top of the line power supply cap. Would the quality of the cap make up for the lower capacitance? I usually listen at low to moderate levels, and expect to use Class A mode a lot.

Parts Connexion also has some Mundorf caps at 22,000uF 63V which are physically a bit smaller than the stock ones. Would those be a better choice? Should I expect those to be as reliable as a Nichicon?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!
 
I've used united chemi-con SMH and KMH series with good results.
Downside is smaller diameter so need some foam around the clamp, also need to snip off the stabilizing tabs, minor PITA.

Also used the mundorf, also happy however they have 10mm leed spacing so need to do some drilling.

Haven't tried CDE(yet)

The CA-1000 is a nice amp, but a real PITA to refurb. You only want to do this once so make sure your list includes,
- checking FR's
- cleaning coupler switch
- replacing tants and C458 LG's
- multi turn trimmers
:
 
So this seems perfect fit for the brackets. I couldn't find such when restoring CA-1000 MKII. I went for Nippon 22000uF/80V which were I think 45mm dia and 82mm height or close to that, can't find the invoice. But on the other hand it luckily happened to be perfect fit of the snap-in pins to the holes after original caps' lugs so didn't end up that bad, had to put some stuff around them to make things rigid in the bracket. capsca1000.jpg
 
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I've used united chemi-con SMH and KMH series with good results.
Downside is smaller diameter so need some foam around the clamp, also need to snip off the stabilizing tabs, minor PITA.

Also used the mundorf, also happy however they have 10mm leed spacing so need to do some drilling.

Haven't tried CDE(yet)

The CA-1000 is a nice amp, but a real PITA to refurb. You only want to do this once so make sure your list includes,
- checking FR's
- cleaning coupler switch
- replacing tants and C458 LG's
- multi turn trimmers
:
haha can confirm it's PITA to refurbish, it's like 2 other amps, remember to connect everything before every power-on or smoke will rise.
 
I've used united chemi-con SMH and KMH series with good results.
Downside is smaller diameter so need some foam around the clamp, also need to snip off the stabilizing tabs, minor PITA.

Also used the mundorf, also happy however they have 10mm leed spacing so need to do some drilling.

Haven't tried CDE(yet)

The CA-1000 is a nice amp, but a real PITA to refurb. You only want to do this once so make sure your list includes,
- checking FR's
- cleaning coupler switch
- replacing tants and C458 LG's
- multi turn trimmers
:
Forgot two Key parts....2 each new Omron snap-action switches (class A switching)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/V-15G-1C25-K?qs=sGAEpiMZZMumBvQ1hY/fBX0/HCAlxieV20E7oODCSWQ=
and 1 each new protect relay.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Industrial-Devices/HC2-HP-DC12V-F?qs=/ha2pyFadujjsO79fbUlxeP3XNSR2nf0tvKnYEsVRf6%2bWwFbxzrK0A==
 
Last edited:
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Thanks again, guys. I've now got the amp stripped down - I can't believe how much is crammed into it. I certainly don't want to have to do this more than once!

I was planning on doing most of what you have all recommended, including replacing the 2SC458s with KSC1845FTAs. Thanks to Avionic for the links to replacements for the class A switches and relays, as well as the main PS Caps (I hadn't thought to check for higher voltages).

I was planning on replacing the tants with either Wima poly caps (for the smaller values) or Os Cons (for the larger ones). Anyone have a better suggestion?

MBZ, what do you mean by "checking FRs"?
 
Thanks again, guys. I've now got the amp stripped down - I can't believe how much is crammed into it. I certainly don't want to have to do this more than once!

I was planning on doing most of what you have all recommended, including replacing the 2SC458s with KSC1845FTAs. Thanks to Avionic for the links to replacements for the class A switches and relays, as well as the main PS Caps (I hadn't thought to check for higher voltages).

I was planning on replacing the tants with either Wima poly caps (for the smaller values) or Os Cons (for the larger ones). Anyone have a better suggestion?

Tantalum caps range from 0.47uF (one on each main amp) to two 220uF/6.3V on mic amp but most are 1uF, 2.2uF 3.3uF 4.7uF on phono/function and tone, maybe two 33uF on tone too maybe one or two 10uF, not sure. Up to 4.7uF film would be ok, 10uF and 33uF I replace with new tantalum (Kemet) 220uF/6.3V on mic are too cute to replace :)
 
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