I questioned them. Never said they were fake. Buyer beware is all. I base my cautionary standpoint on pricing rational and severe lack of communication by the vendor to provide proof.What proof do you have the Maverick 627's are fake besides guessing the pricing?
Where I work we do...its called Certs.I can't imagine any manufacture would provide an invoice copy of where they get their components as requested.
For one it would be a great way for competitors to find better sources.
Where I work we do...its called Certs.
What proof do you have the Maverick 627's are fake besides guessing the pricing?
Pray tell you tell me how to prove if you have fakes or not. It's about time we get some healthy discussion on this topicWhat do certifications have to do with telling your competition where you source your products. why would I tell you where I get my supply, and for how much?
Please do report back. I just ordered the OPA827's from the same place and everything I've read says they sound a tad better than the 627's. Too each his own I guess.Call it an educated guess - Maverick offers the OPA627 option for $15 each - that's TWO chips mounted on a plug in SO8/DIP8 adapter. Actual BurrBrowns mounted up on OEM Browndogs sell for $60 each. I'd think any bulk discount that would explain that difference would be spectacular indeed. So, are we talking re-labelled AD744's? Da shadow know ...
Not that I have any complaints about what they provide - still a quantum leap over the original op amps in my Plus - but it'd be interesting to plug in the "real deal" and see what happens.
Oh - the OPA 827 is sort of the country cousin of the OPA 627. Can't imagine it being an improvement over an actual OPA 627. The specs look similar, and I wouldn't be surprised to find out they both come from the same die and the more expensive version just tests better. Same holds true with a lot of electronics.
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Ah, crap ... this thread just cost me $60 ... <G>
Ordered one OPA627 populated browndog from Cimarron - I just use the dac side so that's all I need. Let ya know if there's any difference.
Pray tell you tell me how to prove if you have fakes or not. It's about time we get some healthy discussion on this topic
Please do report back. I just ordered the OPA827's from the same place and everything I've read says they sound a tad better than the 627's. Too each his own I guess.
Being an engineer myself after reading that thread I wasn't convinced that that was a definable way to certify. I had more questions than answers after reading that thread. But thanks for sharing it with me because I've never seen that one.
Similar story here, Skizo. I got some "Alps" resistor-ladder attenuators; they're counterfeit, but they test perfectly. Their action is too stiff, but a little WD40 improved it. I haven't used them yet, but all the resistors match with even less than the 1% error spec, so they should work fine. Replacing the resistors with Vishays or other top-grade resistors might improve the sound a bit, but how much?I got a bunch of "bourns" multi turn pots some time back that were a fraction of the cost of the real deal, just fer shitzengiggles. They all tested out right on the money, with smooth linear motion and tracking top to bottom ...
Have you had other Burson products that failed, or was this an isolated incident? I've considered maybe trying one or two, but maybe I should cross them off the list...?And yes, the Burson's DID sound better than they were working, but I wonder how much of that is due to the quality of the IC's they were replacing. I'll know soon enough.
I have a feeling that was it--whatever the Bursons were potted with had leaked out. I was only wondering if the Burson op amps were generally unreliable, but now I see how close it is to the tube. I don't really have a use for upgraded op amps in anything as of yet, but I've still kept them bookmarked for future use.I'd think a lot of it was heat related as the socket is really close to the tube. Not an issue with the browndog OPA's as they're much shorter and don't get anywhere near the glass. The "corrosion" may have been the epoxy melting and leaking? It didn't get on the board, and the socket cleaned up decent anyway.