3.3 v and it does respond to KVR 51
Aha ! - nice
Please check kR60, kR62, kR76, kR78, and if not already checked kR64 & kR66 - lift one end of each to check.
Report and/or replace any that are faulty.
3.3 v and it does respond to KVR 51
As always you are spot on sir, R62 was open, I have replaced it with 100 ohm resistor and now I can adjust the bias and it's set to 16mv across all 4 output resistors.Aha ! - nice
Please check kR60, kR62, kR76, kR78, and if not already checked kR64 & kR66 - lift one end of each to check.
Report and/or replace any that are faulty.
Done as suggested, Still the orange protection light is blinking I am afraid. DC offset is 00.19 L and 00.10 ROK - well, I am going to take a guess that there is nothing wrong with the protection circuit, and that it will operate normally when connected to full mains.
Please disconnect any speakers, volume to minimum, no inputs connected.
So, please connect the amplifier to full mains - and we'll see what we get.
DC offset is 00.19 L and 00.10 R
I am measuring at TP1, Pin 1 and 4. It is mV.Is this 0.19V L (or 190mV) and 0.1V R (or 100mV) ? - and where are you measuring - from the centre point of one dual emitter resistor (red probe) - to chassis (black probe) ? anywhere else may be the wrong place - especially at the speaker terminals = wrong.
Once again a warning about probes - be careful.
Are you able to adjust that at all? - just so we can be sure you are in fact monitoring DC offset.I am measuring at TP1, Pin 1 and 4. It is mV.
These are very low readings - possible - but nevertheless outstandingly low - so I am suspicious.measuring between the centre point of dual emitter and ground on each side it is -1.7mV
Yes, I can adjust the dc offset using KVR1 (hot-cold) on both Right and left side. I can take it right down to 00.00 mV but my hands are not that good, it just shifts to +/- 00.50mV.Are you able to adjust that at all? - just so we can be sure you are in fact monitoring DC offset.
These are very low readings - possible - but nevertheless outstandingly low - so I am suspicious.
Also the instruction to do this was wrong. TP1 pins 1 & 4 are correct, or the centre of emitter resistors as described above. (not centre of emitter resistor to chassis)
Ok - that's fine.Yes, I can adjust the dc offset using KVR1 (hot-cold) on both Right and left side. I can take it right down to 00.00 mV but my hands are not that good, it just shifts to +/- 00.50mV.
Yes, important ones are now boldedJust to double check that
Volume is minimum
tone controls, zero
speaker A button "on"
Power Amp Direct is set to "normal"
Source Direct Button is set to "on"
CD selected as source.
I hope this is how I should be attempting settings.
Thank you
Just to check a few things:-
If you alter the speaker select switches - can you hear relays clicking at the rear of the unit?
You still have the flashing protector light ?
Do you have headphone output? - plug in headphones if you have any? - connect a cd player or something and see if you have output.
It is possible you will have speaker output as well ! - but with a flashing protection light.
Yes, I did change them as Q31 was physically broken and I could see the innards of transistor.Please see post no 9, it has a picture of broken transistor.What led you to change transistors on the small protection board located on the power amp board? - I believe you changed 4 on one of the boards.
The substitutes on the protection board are from Digikey , however I do have the "original" or "original looking" transistors from China as well, shall I replace them in protection board ? Their hFE matches the original ones.What led you to change transistors on the small protection board located on the power amp board? - I believe you changed 4 on one of the boards.
Yes I was careful with the replacements, just to check again pin out of originals and replacement transistors were same.Ah yes, I see. - wow.
I assume you checked the pin-outs on the replacements - and took note of the fact that there are 2+1 x NPN and 2+1 x PNP and they have to go back in the right places? - just seen your post above - no, no need to put the originals in - as long as you are sure of the above.
I think we will stop here if that is ok with you, the next bit will be even more difficult and you will have to remove the rear panel to get at the protection board.