AU-X1 old style board F-2772

Willy6

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Anyone out there against cutting the traces and drilling new holes to accept the Omron G5V-2 relay?seems like a better alternative to extending the legs of the new relay and crossing the two rear ones.
 
Or you could contact Ron (Ronito6) and ask him if he might sell/give you the artwork (or sell you a board) for his updated F-2772 board which includes the footprint for the G5V-2 relays?
 
Or you could contact Ron (Ronito6) and ask him if he might sell/give you the artwork (or sell you a board) for his updated F-2772 board which includes the footprint for the G5V-2 relays?
Got some already but been waiting to see how he populates it before I do.I was just looking at the old style board and it would be pretty simple to cut the traces drill 4 new holes and run jumpers on the trace side rather than extending the relay legs and crossing the rear ones.
 
Got some already but been waiting to see how he populates it before I do.I was just looking at the old style board and it would be pretty simple to cut the traces drill 4 new holes and run jumpers on the trace side rather than extending the relay legs and crossing the rear ones.
Or I could try to populate the the new board and hope I don't f#!%! It up because I've never seen the newer version of that board and I'm not exactly sure how it was populated.
 
Or I could try to populate the the new board and hope I don't f#!%! It up because I've never seen the newer version of that board and I'm not exactly sure how it was populated.
I have two of his boards seen here in these pics.20180611_030016.jpg
 
So does anyone have an X-1 with the newer style F-2772 board who could enlighten me on what components and their values I need to populate the new boards?

Well, if I understand you correctly I do, I have the later OEM version of the initial (troublesome) F-2772 Phono Mother board.

As I understand it, the replacement Phono Mother board (courtesy Ronito) is exactly the same as the version I have - but the relay footprints have been corrected - so it's simple really - IF you have other than the Mk1 board to work from. ;)
 
Well, if I understand you correctly I do, I have the later OEM version of the initial (troublesome) F-2772 Phono Mother board.

As I understand it, the replacement Phono Mother board (courtesy Ronito) is exactly the same as the version I have - but the relay footprints have been corrected - so it's simple really - IF you have other than the Mk1 board to work from. ;)
I only have the early version to work from and it doesn't look anything like ronitos copy of the later OEM version is what I'm trying to say.Are the components and their values still the same as the early version ?Looks to me like there are more capacitors on it.
 
The next X1 I do, I think I will cut the traces, it was a lot of fiddly and difficult work to do it crossing the legs over....
 
The next X1 I do, I think I will cut the traces, it was a lot of fiddly and difficult work to do it crossing the legs over....
Yes it would be a lot easier that way and if you have20180610_214544.jpg 20180610_214419.jpg a Dremel drill press like this one you can drill small holes really easy.
 
I have two of his boards seen here in these pics.View attachment 1209408

Those look familiar. ;)

Yes it would be a lot easier that way and if you haveView attachment 1209803 View attachment 1209804 a Dremel drill press like this one you can drill small holes really easy.

That alone will not work. The G5V footprint is different in spacing and orientation. Only 2 out of the 8 leads will fit. You might be able to force the leads in but that is certainly not best practice.

I guess my point is...make clear that this is all experimental.

Make certain and provable that your approach will work so that only good info for everyone is shared.

The new boards are the real way to go. Seeing them installed and working will very cool I think.
 
Those look familiar. ;)



That alone will not work. The G5V footprint is different in spacing and orientation. Only 2 out of the 8 leads will fit. You might be able to force the leads in but that is certainly not best practice.

I guess my point is...make clear that this is all experimental.

Make certain and provable that your approach will work so that only good info for everyone is shared.

The new boards are the real way to go. Seeing them installed and working will very cool I think.
Thanks Ron now that I have the component info I need I'll be populating the new board and using it instead of the old style one
 
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