JBL L250 Questions

zebra03

All Audio - NO BS
If you were to audition a pair of JBL L250's , what should you look for ? Weaknesses in any of the drivers ? How much Amp do you need to properly drive these guys ?
 
You really need 200 wpc + to wake them up but they will sound good with just about any amp 100 wpc up. I was driving a pair with my Marantz 2325 (125 wpc) a month ago and my 250ti's sounded great, normally I run 700 wpc.
 
Make sure you thoroughly check that you have the right drivers and oem cones. The health of the 108H would be the most important to me. The other parts can be up there in price and it may take a while for the part to come up for sale.

You really need 200 wpc + to wake them up but they will sound good with just about any amp 100 wpc up. I was driving a pair with my Marantz 2325 (125 wpc) a month ago and my 250ti's sounded great, normally I run 700 wpc.

I agree with the 200w + recommendation. Personally, a bit more volume and the larger 200w amplifier changed my thoughts on what they are capable of. It still seems that a little more would be good thing. The manual recommends 400 wpc max. and more power used responsibly is likely not bad either.

I've tried a 150 wpc Marantz ST7 and it didn't do much for me. It never had a complete checkup and that may have been a factor.
 
I agree with the 200w + recommendation. Personally, a bit more volume and the larger 200w amplifier changed my thoughts on what they are capable of. It still seems that a little more would be good thing. The manual recommends 400 wpc max. and more power used responsibly is likely not bad either.

I've tried a 150 wpc Marantz ST7 and it didn't do much for me. It never had a complete checkup and that may have been a factor.

I was running one Yamaha PC2002 (240 wpc) then added a second, bridged them @ 700 wpc and it really opened them up. One day I said to my self maybe I didn't need the second amp, I removed it and ran just the one amp again and they sounded very good but veiled comparatively.
 
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I know this asking a lot , but does anyone have a picture of one with the correct drivers ?


s-l1600.jpg


Is this correct ?
 
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The holes for the grills are throwing me off but 250ti's have 6 holes for the frame and those have four and L250's don't have any so they must have drilled them to accommodate the grills. The L250's have a paper cone mid and the 250ti a polypropylene cone.
 
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I have L250s with the ti upgrades.
They are the best speakers I've heard for all types of music.
I would test the speakers with music that is well recorded and has a good amount of instruments. Maybe Steely AJA album or some kind of fusion jazz.
Sound should be very precise, great imagery, bass is a little tight but not as tight as say the L100s. You're not gonna get the super lush sound of say ARs or older speakers.
Put your ear close to the ultra high frequency driver (Top one) and see if it goes in and out (off and on).
The ti upgrades have "ti" stamps in back of the drivers. send a picture of the crossover, the ti upgrades has larger components.
The top high frequency driver looks suspect.
Good Luck. Definitely great speakers.
 
Is this correct ?
Yes

They are the first L250 with a gold dome tweeter
The small 3" mid looks correct and really thats the cheapest driver there and quite a few others will work and look alike.

The woofer looks like it's never been reconed or they just did a very nice job.

The cabinet is walnut and thats correct, however someone drilled holes for the grills. It might be as simple as the originals and someone use 3/8th dowl to hold them on.
 
BTW I would just leave them alone and not do any mods. The speaker in the photo looks like it need nothing but music playing through it.
 
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The small 3" mid looks correct...
Is your model different from this one using a 5" midrange? It seems to possess the same challenge as other models of its day pushing that driver to a too-high crossover point (5.2 khz or a 2.6" wavelength) compromising its directivity up top.

The brochure included polar response curves, but notably absent is one at the crossover point. Sure, a 5 incher does just fine at 2 khz (about where the LSR6332 crosses today), just not an octave+ above.
 
Is your model different from this one using a 5" midrange? It seems to possess the same challenge as other models of its day pushing that driver to a too-high crossover point (5.2 khz or a 2.6" wavelength) compromising its directivity up top.

The brochure included polar response curves, but notably absent is one at the crossover point. Sure, a 5 incher does just fine at 2 khz (about where the LSR6332 crosses today), just not an octave+ above.
What does your question have to do with this thread? and the questions in the OP?
 
If the unit is a 3 incher, it would appear to not be standard.
Sorry I didn't break out a tape mesure, but now I did. The paper cone is 3 and 1/4 inches, the cone and surround is 3 and 3/4 inch, the frame from flat side to flat side is 4 and 1/2 inches, the frame from mounting point ends is 5 and 1/8. I think my description is closer than JBLs.
 
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