"banana jack" plugs for Dynaco a25's?
- Thread starter jeffp6155
- Start date
KevinJS
Lunatic Member
I use these from Monoprice. They don't require any soldering or screws. The body of the plug unscrews, the cable is fed into the lower part and clamped into place by screwing the two parts together. They will accept up to 10 gauge speaker wire.
I'm not familiar with your speakers, and am making the assumption that they have binding posts which will accept banana plugs. If so, just plug them in. You may need to remove a small plastic insert from the post before you can insert the banana plug.
If not, the same plugs are available with pins instead of plugs, or you may be able to use spades, like those from Sewell shown at the other end of these patch cables I made to replace some missing speaker parts.
All of these are available from Amazon.
I'm not familiar with your speakers, and am making the assumption that they have binding posts which will accept banana plugs. If so, just plug them in. You may need to remove a small plastic insert from the post before you can insert the banana plug.
If not, the same plugs are available with pins instead of plugs, or you may be able to use spades, like those from Sewell shown at the other end of these patch cables I made to replace some missing speaker parts.
All of these are available from Amazon.
musichal
poet emeritus
I didn't think A25's had binding posts? IDK.
Might need something like this:
https://www.parts-express.com/gold-...ir-extra-long-shaft-with-solder-tabs--091-340
or maybe a terminal cup.
Might need something like this:
https://www.parts-express.com/gold-...ir-extra-long-shaft-with-solder-tabs--091-340
or maybe a terminal cup.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
The A25 has standard 3/4" spaced dual binding posts that will accept wire or banana plugs. I would get dual banana plugs which are a standard 3/4" spaced and this will prevent a + banana plug from touching a - banana plug and damaging the amp.
The crappy chinese dual banana plugs will peel and if you use them with wire the screw is not threaded to the end and will not engage if you don't use small enough wire.
I would get a pair of Pomona dual banana plugs. They are the quality stuff.
To use them, identify the side of the wire you want to be the black, negative, terminal on the amp and speaker. Unscrew the grub screw in the banana plug, insert the wire and tighten the screw to secure the wire. Don't tin the wire except on the very end as under pressure the solder will flow and cause the set screw to become loose as the solder squishes under it.
Repeat the connection for the positive, red side of the wire. Hook them to the amp and plug em into the speakers and you good to go. Most dual banana plugs have a tab and label it gnd. This helps you keep the polarity of the system correct, doing both speakers the same.
The crappy chinese dual banana plugs will peel and if you use them with wire the screw is not threaded to the end and will not engage if you don't use small enough wire.
I would get a pair of Pomona dual banana plugs. They are the quality stuff.
To use them, identify the side of the wire you want to be the black, negative, terminal on the amp and speaker. Unscrew the grub screw in the banana plug, insert the wire and tighten the screw to secure the wire. Don't tin the wire except on the very end as under pressure the solder will flow and cause the set screw to become loose as the solder squishes under it.
Repeat the connection for the positive, red side of the wire. Hook them to the amp and plug em into the speakers and you good to go. Most dual banana plugs have a tab and label it gnd. This helps you keep the polarity of the system correct, doing both speakers the same.
thanks alot for all the informative suggestions! before i even get started with this, i need to resolve one issue that i'm hoping is simple: one of the two locking nuts is stuck on the post and by turning it either way to tighten or unscrew moves the post along with it. I would think that using a tool to hold the post in place while I gently attempt to align the nut properly so it turns is the solution.
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KevinJS
Lunatic Member
Well, it SHOULD be simple. The only reason for unscrewing the binding post would be to use spade connectors or bare wires. Banana plugs should just plug straight in. Loosening and tightening the post doesn't change the size. The plug itself grips the post.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
To tighten the binding post you need to pull the woofer which is a small project on reinstall.
Google images of the crossover and see that each post is bolted into the cabinet. The nut inside needs to be tightened and maybe loctite would keep this from happening again. But what you have is 45 years old give or take.
The deal with the woofer is not damaging the mounting location since the screws can pull out some of the particle board. No problem you can repair any issues as needed. Just ask if you need to.
If you want to install a new dual binding post don't let the shiny yellow metal glitter in your eyes and sway you away from professional quality like Pomona. This brand is all over professional test gear that has much lower and more critical signals than some speaker. Quality before shiny metal.
Google images of the crossover and see that each post is bolted into the cabinet. The nut inside needs to be tightened and maybe loctite would keep this from happening again. But what you have is 45 years old give or take.
The deal with the woofer is not damaging the mounting location since the screws can pull out some of the particle board. No problem you can repair any issues as needed. Just ask if you need to.
If you want to install a new dual binding post don't let the shiny yellow metal glitter in your eyes and sway you away from professional quality like Pomona. This brand is all over professional test gear that has much lower and more critical signals than some speaker. Quality before shiny metal.
spark1
Lunatic Member
I think you need to access the other side and tighten the nut on the inside (by removing the woofer).
I used and bumped these banana plugs. The problem I had with these was the threaded front section kept coming loose. I could not tighten enough. What you want is a one piece body. I have Nakamichi branded locking banana plugs they are very good. The only problem I have with them is they are rather long. The bottom line is as I said about you want a one piece body.
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IIRC ( and i certainly may not) i thought my A25s had screw terminals
Nope i'm wrong .
Nope i'm wrong .
Is this the speaker? If so their is nothing better than the spade connector.
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How much do you want to spend on plugs?
I use these
Neotech NCB-80. I got them from Sonic Craft. (site sponsor)
And these
Furutech FP-202G. I got these through Douglas Connections.
Neither are cheap but they are very nice, and are super easy to install on the wire. No soldering required and very secure.
I use these
Neotech NCB-80. I got them from Sonic Craft. (site sponsor)And these
Furutech FP-202G. I got these through Douglas Connections.Neither are cheap but they are very nice, and are super easy to install on the wire. No soldering required and very secure.
Going cheap on connectors does not always work out. As I found out with the Monoprice plugs. But things can get outrageous. I would have loved to have used Cardas binding posts on my 10B crossovers but it would have cost almost $100 dollars. After rebuilding the crossovers on the Wharfdale W35’s I was reacquainted with just how good, and simple an old school sold brass screw with a Thumb nut is. For the $50 bucks one pair of Cardas binding posts costs you can purchase enough copper screws, bolts, and thumb nuts to refurbish a bunch of speakers with a connection that is every bit as good as anything no matter the price.
i have a set of budget plugs i think i had bought from meritline a while ago and the wire doesn't tighten from within nor does the pin stay snug inside the speaker. so i'm hoping one of these options provides a good fit.
also, from what i'm gathering reading the comments not being to turn the locking nut is not an issue in terms of simply inserting a plug, so that's one less thing. thanks again for all the valuable responses.
also, from what i'm gathering reading the comments not being to turn the locking nut is not an issue in terms of simply inserting a plug, so that's one less thing. thanks again for all the valuable responses.
Good points on the Monoprice cheapies. I still use them routinely, securing the plug section with a bit of threadlocker. A more serious problem with them is that the spring steel in the plug deforms, quickly and almost totally losing its ability to "grip" the female jack solidly. Not good to have your speaker plugs rattling around loosely in their amp jacks. I've found slipping a smallish slotted screwdriver into the spring sections and re-bending each of them restores the lost grip (at least for a time).
Of all of the banana plugs I have used this is the best design. I use them on the vintage test equipment I have which uses banana plugs for the test leads. They work particularly well with sockets that are worn from years of use.
Source?
Sorry I normally include a link here you go for the above, you will like the price.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/banana-plugs/plugs-bp-sz-single-banana-plug-red/
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