Whether it's worth the price or not is a matter of opinion.
I would imagine the sockets and pins would be fine. Just make sure they are completely dry.Can I use D5 on tube sockets and tube pins? Also on cassette heads?
And that's minus shipping. As I have stated elsewhere, it's still overpriced.
Get a $2.98 can of CRC "226" silicone lubricant and a can of CRC "Lectra Clean" (for $7.98: the BLUE CAN...not the red one to degrease engine parts) and give a small microburst of each into the pots'/switches' openings for the same result.
The notion of bathing the highly conductive innards -certainly around RELAY COILS- of an electronic component is what would really be IDIOTIC.
[P.S. the thorough way to get 45 years of tarnish out of a RCA connector is: to unravel the excess off an end of a Q-tip and lightly coat it in metal polish and work the Q-tip inside the jack (until it's completely black); then, unravel a clean Q-tip to buff the inner pin until you can see the reflection inside from a light underneath while the bottom pan is off. Clean any residue out with more unravelled Q-tips dipped in mineral spirits then blow it out with a (manually-operated) can of $5.98 compressed air duster. It's a tedious process of a restoration...but it's a detail to make sure EVERYTHING MAKES 100% "NEW" CONTACT.]
Get a $2.98 can of CRC "226" silicone lubricant and a can of CRC "Lectra Clean" (for $7.98: the BLUE CAN...not the red one to degrease engine parts) and give a small microburst of each into the pots'/switches' openings for the same result.
The notion of bathing the highly conductive innards -certainly around RELAY COILS- of an electronic component is what would really be IDIOTIC.
[P.S. the thorough way to get 45 years of tarnish out of a RCA connector is: to unravel the excess off an end of a Q-tip and lightly coat it in metal polish and work the Q-tip inside the jack (until it's completely black); then, unravel a clean Q-tip to buff the inner pin until you can see the reflection inside from a light underneath while the bottom pan is off. Clean any residue out with more unravelled Q-tips dipped in mineral spirits then blow it out with a (manually-operated) can of $5.98 compressed air duster. It's a tedious process of a restoration...but it's a detail to make sure EVERYTHING MAKES 100% "NEW" CONTACT.]
You can order DeoxIT from one of our distributors in Michigan: SF Supply, Audio Advisor or Apollo AV. Here is the link to distributors info: https://caig.com/distributors/Beautiful post and I Thank You for it ! Where can I buy DeOxit in the Royal Oak Ferndale area of Michigan ? I’m about out and I don’t want to start the cleaning of my Harmon Kardon HK505 without a fresh can in hand .
Beautiful post and I Thank You for it ! Where can I buy DeOxit in the Royal Oak Ferndale area of Michigan ? I’m about out and I don’t want to start the cleaning of my Harmon Kardon HK505 without a fresh can in hand .
Since I'm new to this, I too have seen those videos is it ok to spray it everywhere including the boards and all or did they just screw it up?If you watch YouTube, there are some who spray it all over, everywhere. I call them as "restorers by can".
it's great for thatNewbie here. Was at an estate sale and bought this Realistic STA-2100 to replace my now defunct SA-500. The thing is basically perfect sans the low filter button. I have to mess with it a bit to get both channels to play at the same time (regardless of which section I am using). I was hoping someone can tell me if using deoxit on a spring loaded push button the same as described here for switches is the right thing to do. Never have worked on electronics before and may end up selling due to divorce threats from the wife (Darn thing just begs to be played at half volume). Is this something for a novice to try-n-fix, or should I just pass it along to someone with skills.