Ahhh, yes, andother of the gold-tone amplifiers, all birthed in the same Japanese factory during the Eisenhower administration.
Your unit is identical to the Calrad SA-2B, which is itself identical to units from Olson, Armaco, and a host of other mail-order companies.
While I do not have any documentation on this particular model, as I do for other Calrad units, having studied many of the similar amplifiers (mostly push-pull 6BQ5 and 6BM8) created in that nameless factory and then sold by these catalog companies I can tell you that the circuits are not only nothing fancy, but all have been extensively Muntzed. As a result, the circuits require some simple modifications for stability, reliability, and performance. I therefore suggest you use a decent worked out 6BM8 design as a basis for a rebuild.
The design, in summary, uses the triode portion as a gain stage and the pentode portion as a low-power SEP stage. You should be aware that many of these designs push the power capability of the pentode portion to or beyond its limits, dramatically shortening the lifespan of both the tube and the output transformer.
The original specifications for many of these amplifiers are just delusional if one knows the limits of the tube. I just picked up a Japanese push-pull 6BQ5 amplifier of the same era which used fanciful ratings; 20 WPC (ha!) for a pair of tubes rated for about 16 WPC maximum. The unit shows obvious damage, as the chassis has scorch marks around the tubes, one output transformer is burnt up with scorch marks on the paper, and the other output transformer has obvious heat damage. Tubes and output transformers therefore require replacement, and I will modify it to limit the gain to a more reasonable 16 WPC max.
The Japanese single-ended designs of that time are even more prone to being overdriven because of the low efficiency.
These units do make excellent headphone amplifiers, where power requirements are low, so your plan is perfect. As for driving speakers, well, you'll likely be happier with something of greater power.
Because of the cost-cutting aspects of these designs I suggest you do a few things for stability and lifespan. Off the top of my head:
All of the Japanese electrolytic capacitors used for AC interstage coupling are bad and will consequently place a DC voltage (from the triode gain-stage stage's plate) on the grid of the 6BM8's pentode stage, blowing up the tube. These capacitors must be replaced if you want a stable amplifier. None can be saved. I suggest using PP film capacitors for coupling, or PTFE if you want to spend a few dollars more.
Add add individual bias potentiometers to the output stage, and possibly investigate Dave's EFB, to better match the outputs. I also suggest a 10 Ω resistor to allow you to accurately measure the current.
Add grid and screen stopper resistors for anti-arcing and anti-oscillation.
Add a Zobel to the input stage to ensure RF cannot get into the amplifier and cause oscillation.
Replace the screen supply, which is a dropping resistor, with a voltage regulator of some sort. A string of lower-voltage Zeners will reduce the noise of a Zener and improve stability. Do not exceed the published screen limits.
Replace all of the carbon composite resistors, which will have drifted, with 1% metal film.
Replace all of the ceramic capacitors, which are microphonic, hygroscopic, and have other defects such as capacitance varying with DC bias, with PP film.
Replace the sockets.
The 6X4 (like the 6X5) is a bad, bad, tube. It tends to fail as a short which rapidly burns out the power transformer. (A fuse won't help as it takes too long to blow, and the power transformers used in these units are not very robust.) This problem is infamous in the tube radio world. Many circuits overdrive the 6X4 by exceeding the maximum current ratings. (In brief, larger capacitors shorten the conduction angle, i.e. the time in which the filter capacitor charges. The 6X4 cathode can only handle about 40 uF, and even that is pushing it.) I would switch to solid-state with a delay, but another rectifier tube would be fine. Some research on the 6X4 will confirm the widespread problems of blown power transformers.
These changes will give you a nice headphone amplifier which is stable and reliable.