220v to 110v step down converter for thorens?

Aladdinsane

Active Member
i have a 220v thorens td-150 mk i, when I bought it it just came with an adaptor at the end of the plug so it could be plugged into a 110v socket. Recently I was noticing some hum and when I tried to unplug it and plug it back in it wouldn't spin, now it only spins if I hold the plug a certain way. I'm guessing he adaptor just isn't making good contact.

My question is, should I get a step down converter and use the original plug, or should I just look for another one of those adaptors? Any recommendations either way?
 
You might just be able to rewire it. There were 2 versions, one with a 50hz motor, and one with a 60hz motor. The difference being the size of the pulley. If you've been running the 50hz version off 60hz, it's likely your records were spinning too fast. Could be as simple as replacing the power cord, and moving a couple wires around, or jumping a resistor.

ThorensTD150AB_09.jpg
 
You might just be able to rewire it. There were 2 versions, one with a 50hz motor, and one with a 60hz motor. The difference being the size of the pulley. If you've been running the 50hz version off 60hz, it's likely your records were spinning too fast. Could be as simple as replacing the power cord, and moving a couple wires around, or jumping a resistor.

ThorensTD150AB_09.jpg

The previous owner swapped out the pulley. I'm not confident enough in my electrical skills to rewire it myself, seems way easier to just get a step down converter
 
Whatever, this is about as simple as wiring gets. As you found out, adding a converter makes reliability problems. You could probably fix your existing converter by bending the contacts back in shape. Any electronics repair place would be able to do it, just show them that schematic. Probably wouldn't charge much.
 
Whatever, this is about as simple as wiring gets. As you found out, adding a converter makes reliability problems. You could probably fix your existing converter by bending the contacts back in shape. Any electronics repair place would be able to do it, just show them that schematic. Probably wouldn't charge much.

My local electronics repair place charges 75 dollars to even look at turntables. Maybe I'll do it at some point.

Is there any chance of the current adaptor being the source of a hum? Or is it most likely a grounding issue?
 
I don't know for sure about the hum. Do you have a ground wire separate from the rca cables? Most turn tables do. It is a possibility the converter is causing a hum.

If you were close to me, I'd switch it for you just for the halibut.
 
Wonder if your motor is a multi-voltage model. Some European model Thorens motors are. If so, then you could change the motor over to 120V.
 
(...) when I bought it it just came with an adaptor at the end of the plug so it could be plugged into a 110v socket.

What kind of adaptor? Because if that's just a simple plug adaptor (like for example this type: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Insten-5...Charger-Plug-Universal-5-pack-Bundle/44414259), it would seem extremely likely, that your TD150 has already been internally reconfigured to 110 V and just the power plug hasn't been swapped - in which case you simply could either grab another of these simple adaptors or cut off the original plug and install a US plug instead.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini

P.S.: If you're in doubt regarding the type of your original adaptor, simply take a pic or two and add it/these to this thread for identification.
 
What kind of adaptor? Because if that's just a simple plug adaptor (like for example this type: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Insten-5...Charger-Plug-Universal-5-pack-Bundle/44414259), it would seem extremely likely, that your TD150 has already been internally reconfigured to 110 V and just the power plug hasn't been swapped - in which case you simply could either grab another of these simple adaptors or cut off the original plug and install a US plug instead.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini

P.S.: If you're in doubt regarding the type of your original adaptor, simply take a pic or two and add it/these to this thread for identification.

That's exactly what the adaptor is like. The guy I bought it from said that all he did was switch the pulley. He seemed pretty confident that that's all that needed to be done.

Wonder if your motor is a multi-voltage model. Some European model Thorens motors are. If so, then you could change the motor over to 120V.

How would I be able to tell if that's the case?
 
I am reasonably sure your European version does have a multi-voltage motor. See if you can find the service manual for information on how to wire it for 120V.
 
Ok, this isn't making any sense. The type of adapter from the link doesn't actually change the voltage. That means somebody wired the motor for 120v, but left the 220v plug instead of changing a $2 power cord while they were in there. If you actually plugged it in to 220v, you'd fry it. For safety reasons, you should change the cord. Or, the motor is still wired for 220v, which would run hot on 120v, if at all.

Also, the pulley is supposedly permanently attached to the motor according to the page from the manual I posted. I've seen it where the company just refuses to sell the pulley separately so they can gouge you for a new motor, but I'd have to look to see if the pulley is even removable at this point.

I don't think the guy you bought it from had a clue what he was doing.
 
Ok, this isn't making any sense. The type of adapter from the link doesn't actually change the voltage. That means somebody wired the motor for 120v, but left the 220v plug instead of changing a $2 power cord while they were in there. If you actually plugged it in to 220v, you'd fry it. For safety reasons, you should change the cord. Or, the motor is still wired for 220v, which would run hot on 120v, if at all.

Also, the pulley is supposedly permanently attached to the motor according to the page from the manual I posted. I've seen it where the company just refuses to sell the pulley separately so they can gouge you for a new motor, but I'd have to look to see if the pulley is even removable at this point.

I don't think the guy you bought it from had a clue what he was doing.

That's kind of why I made this post, it didn't seem right that all it needed was an adaptor and a different pulley.

I wouldn't know how to tell if it had been re wired or not. Do you want me to open it up and take some pictures?
 
If you want to, yeah, that would eliminate the guesswork that we have going on here.

If you could get a part # off the motor, that would be great. It should be s 804 550 for 60hz, and s 800 550 for 50hz. Both motors are dual voltage.

Have you played a record on it? It would be noticeably fast if it was the wrong motor or pulley.
 
If you want to, yeah, that would eliminate the guesswork that we have going on here.

If you could get a part # off the motor, that would be great. It should be s 804 550 for 60hz, and s 800 550 for 50hz. Both motors are dual voltage.

Have you played a record on it? It would be noticeably fast if it was the wrong motor or pulley.

It's 50hz, says it right on the plinth. It plays totally fine. I've been listening to it every day. Sounds really nice. It's just the adaptor that's kind of janky.
 
It's 50hz, says it right on the plinth. It plays totally fine. I've been listening to it every day. Sounds really nice. It's just the adaptor that's kind of janky.

Ok, so somebody actually did change the motor or the pulley. Why would they leave that cord? Sometimes I have to wonder what goes through people's heads.
 
Ok, it appears they make aftermarket pulleys, and they're not permanently attached to the motor.

So should it be fine with just the adaptor? I mean I'll definitely switch the cord out at some point because why not, but should I be worried at all until then?
 
I don't know. It depends on if they converted it or not. I don't understand why anyone would convert it, and not replace that cord. They spent more on the adapter than a cord would cost. I'd bet they didn't, and that could eventually burn up the motor.
 
(...) I'd bet they didn't, and that could eventually burn up the motor.

Rather not. The other way around (i.e. unnecessarily running the thingy with a step-up, if it's already in 110 V configuration anyway) would be dangerous - whereas if it's in 220 V configuration and fed with 110 V, the motor would see an even lower operation voltage due to the drop-down resistor in series, and I don't really see, how that could fry the motor...

Well, and regarding the adaptor, maybe the owner at that time simply wanted to keep the unit as original as possible - and those simple adaptors aren't exactly expensive, either. Or that owner deemed it possible, that he might move to a region with 220 V mains voltage again sooner or later...

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
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