Purchased the Speaker Binding posts: Cardas ACBP S EU

transmaster

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I decided to take my own advice. I have always liked the finger nut binding posts you find on vintage speakers. Cardas has such a binding post. The ACBP S EU it does not except banana plugs it is designed to be used with crimp style spade connectors. I can use the marine grade crimp style connectors I have. I was looking at the Cardas spade connectors and I don't think they are any better, and in some ways not a good as the connectors I already have. Sonic Craft has these on sale 50% discount, $16.00 each pair. I Just ordered them.

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I decided to take my own advice. I have always liked the finger nut binding posts you find on vintage speakers. Cardas has such a binding post. The ACBP S EU it does not except banana plugs it is designed to be used with crimp style spade connectors. I can use the marine grade crimp style connectors I have. I was looking at the Cardas spade connectors and I don't think they are any better, and in some ways not a good as the connectors I already have. Sonic Craft has these on sale 50% discount, $16.00 each pair. I Just ordered them.

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They're actually designed to be torqued down with a fancy tool like this or you could just use a standard socket driver and save your money. :cool:
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They're actually designed to be torqued down with a fancy tool like this or you could just use a standard socket driver and save your money. :cool:

Oh goodie I can use my 1/4" torque wrench and really get fancy. I suppose somewhere there is a flame war going on just how much to torque them down.

Q: Man I torqued My Cardas Posts to 4.74536265 Nm and the highs are better, better sound stage, and the Low's are lower.
A: Oh ya, and you use Zip-cord for speaker wire. Everyone knows you should torque these posts to 4.9713323 Nm.
 
The nut is an 11mm. I could just stick a nut driver in my Hammerhead electric screwdriver driver it tightens to 35 in-lb (4Nm) that would be more than enough.

I am going to mount these posts separately using the Cardas single binding post insulators.
 
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I really appreciate Sonic Craft posting the drawings for these Cardas connectors. Checked my marine crimp connectors with a dial caliper and found that nothing I had fit. So I am going to order some Cardas crimp spades, might as well keep things in the family.
 
Didn’t get Cardas, purchased these instead. The Cardas were $6.00 bucks each. These are gold plated pure copper $1.25 each.
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It does not except banana plugs, it is designed to be used with crimp style spade connectors.
I have a Cary amp where the terminals didn't accept bananas. I like bananas, so I drilled a 4mm hole into the posts — they were copper so the drilling was easy. They now accept bananas. Also enlarged the holes for bare wire, while I was at it, to accept thicker gauge wire.
 
I decided to take my own advice. I have always liked the finger nut binding posts you find on vintage speakers. Cardas has such a binding post. The ACBP S EU it does not except banana plugs it is designed to be used with crimp style spade connectors. I can use the marine grade crimp style connectors I have. I was looking at the Cardas spade connectors and I don't think they are any better, and in some ways not a good as the connectors I already have. Sonic Craft has these on sale 50% discount, $16.00 each pair. I Just ordered them.

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My Muse One Hundred MOSFET amp has these.
 
I have to assume transmaster has me on ignore, so for those following this I'll say it again. Solder your leads to the hole in the Cardas posts. Using zinc plated ring terminals makes zero sense. You should also apply hot glue to the area around the posts on the back side of the binding post plate to ensure an air tight seal.
 
Ancor Marine grade crimp connectors are tinned, they are not zinc plated zinc corrodes in salt water. Hot Glue? The enlarged holes were drilled so the binding post cut threads as they went in they are very tightly fitted. A seal washer was used inside. Hot glue makes it difficult to service things in the future should it come necessary. Soldering in this application is not as good over the long term as a copper on copper crimp connection with in a sealed cover, as noted above the Ancor connectors have a tin metal wash to prevent corrosion.
 
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Tinned....still makes zero sense. Soldered is a much better mechanical and electrical connection. George Cardas is one smart dude and put that hole there for a damn good reason.

You still have to seal all of that with hot glue just like the factory did. What you've got now is not air tight. I've only done Polk binding post upgrades a few dozen times, so I just might know what works and what doesn’t.

BTW, hot glue is easy to remove in the extremely unlikely event the binding posts need service. Put a few drops of denatured alcohol on/around the glue and in a minute it'll peel right off.

Salt water? Are you planning on taking the speakers on a cruise?

Edit: I just noticed transmaster removed two of his posts from yesterday. What's up with that?
 
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