Back to the rabbit hole with a Pilot 240

hwystar

Super Member
127_3916.JPG 127_3912.JPG 127_3913.JPG Hmmm, I was just thinking about taking the wood from the console this came out of and making a cabinet for this. If so I'll post pictures. It's a nice Mahogany. 127_3916.JPG 127_3912.JPG 127_3913.JPG

One reason I got out of tubes before was for the lack of time and resources to do the restore work myself and couldn't afford to pay someone. Couldn't be that difficult but it would be my first attempt at such. To date I have only replaced one resistor and one capacitor, I'm thinking I could repeat that about 50 times. The good thing is it works now. Tips or advice?
 
I've been thinking about it. I think I can make something that will work and the faceplate is just kind of dangling out there. Needs some support behind it.
 
The tabletop models attached the faceplate to the metal lid. I had the same issue with my FA-590, my fix was to lay hands on a lid for some other piece of Pilot gear.
 
That metal lid you're talking about would be preferred if it were available. Quick easy fix and originality to boot.
 
Pilot used that same size chassis on several integrated amps and tuner/preamps. I think the tuners were not as deep so the lid stops short. I can't remember what mine is from, but its about 2" shorter than my FA-590 tuner/preamp chassis is.
 
I came to realize I was just kidding myself about the recap. I can't even find the time to recap a pair of speakers. And the Pilot is a good bit more complex than these speakers. So I took it to a tech about an hour and half away. I know it will be well cared for and I will have greater peace of mind. Someday I'll try it maybe with something a little simpler. It was good I was going that way anyhow so dropping it off not a problem. But in my haste I did forget to take some critical measurements so I could start working on that case.
 
It shouldn't be long now, a!l electrolytic and signal coupling caps replaced along with a slew of resistors. It's almost ready for me to pick up. Probably next weekend.waiting on a new volume control to replace the one I had. It was a little wacky and i think it will be much more enjoyable with a good one.
 
It shouldn't be long now, a!l electrolytic and signal coupling caps replaced along with a slew of resistors. It's almost ready for me to pick up. Probably next weekend.waiting on a new volume control to replace the one I had. It was a little wacky and i think it will be much more enjoyable with a good one.
The Pilot el84 amps are very nice sounding. Very pleasant and enjoyable. They have that weird front plate that is all loose because of the console mounting but with efficient speakers they are an excellent match. Enjoy!
PS, i think working on speakers are harder than working on tube amps. With speakers you sometimes need to be a contortionist to get at stuff, and i am always worried the magnet will pull my screwdriver right through the cone. What i mean is that working on amps and such is not hard at all once you are familiar with the territory.
 
Maybe I can be some inspiration. Here's a wood case I made for my Pilot SM245. Close enough to the 240 to act as an example of what it might look like...

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I had the same "dangling faceplate" issue- I solved that by using a vertical frame of wood, mounted inside the case, to provide the same mounting for the faceplate as the original console did, and I made some slots in the bottom of the case, so that I could secure the chassis to the case, through the holes in the original amp bottom cover.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
My Pioneer CS63DXs were a piece of cake to recap. I agree that if they were ARs. they would be more difficult. With the 63DXs the back of the cabinet is removed and everything is right there on the back.4 caps per cabinet.

Gordon, I can't see the pics. But when I get the amp back I'm going to try some ideas with a case. One idea is a donor case from a Sherwood solid state receiver. If it happens to fit (what are the odds?) I won't have to build from scratch.
 
Maybe I can be some inspiration. Here's a wood case I made for my Pilot SM245. Close enough to the 240 to act as an example of what it might look like...

index.php


I had the same "dangling faceplate" issue- I solved that by using a vertical frame of wood, mounted inside the case, to provide the same mounting for the faceplate as the original console did, and I made some slots in the bottom of the case, so that I could secure the chassis to the case, through the holes in the original amp bottom cover.

Regards,
Gordon.
Beautiful case Gordon!
 
Amp is back from repair and it sounds nice. I painted the knobs that had lost their paint.and for now I'm just giving a good test listen. I am still planning to make a cabinet.127_5280.JPG
 
Pilot units outperformed Scott and Fisher consistently and I wish you well trying to bring your unit back. IF you don't want to tackle Mac or Marantz, Pilot is your best choice has been my experience way back in the past.. Its just takes time, research, patience, and $$$$$$$$$$$$$.
 
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Update on the wood case project. My wood working abilities are just barely adequate I guess but I did manage to make this happen using wood from the original console and some wire mesh "gutter guard" stuff from the building supply store. I had some fun doing it. And it is a big improvement over no case at all.IMG_5730.JPG IMG_5731.JPG IMG_5733.JPG IMG_5732.JPG
 
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