REL Acoustics Subwoofer

yamahafanatc

Active Member
For the record: this is in an audio-only system

So I have been using my current system for awile and decided the woofers in my Yamaha Ns-670s weren't cutting it as they are not even 10"ers. I did some research and was stunned at the prices. I just wasn't willing to spend $300+++ dollars and WAY up on a good audio sub. So I began looking around at ebay and thrift stores. Then I was on a trip and decided to check out the goodwill. They had several subs but most were designed for home theaters (3 ohm) and my Yamaha CA-600 can only handle one pair of 4 ohm, but i have to run my NS-670s on that amp as well. Then I saw down on the lowest shelf a larger sub for $30. After a bit of looking I decided to take the chance of it not working and get it. I got it home and hooked it up and wow! Then after a close examination i realized there was no port at all. I had never seen or heard of a sub without a port. I looked up the model online and learned for the 10" model(the one i own) new they are $1600! I also noticed the brand to be " REL Acoustics" I have never heard of this company before, but am blown away by the performance.

Can someone give me some more info about REL subs?
 
Congratulations, sounds like you scored on a really good sub. Rel subs are known for being a very Musical subs and have been the go to sub for those wanting one of the best Subs for integrating with there 2ch rigs . Although I have not personally owned a Rel sub ( I have a Velodyne Hgs 12 , which is a sealed sub also ) I have heard them and they are very nice .

Audiofreak71
 
There are plenty of sealed subwoofer designs, and I prefer them for music-only systems.

REL has a great reputation. I had one of their upper-tier models on loan for about a month, but in my room and with my speakers, I could never get it to blend well without dropping the crossover point and the volume so low that the sub really didn't add much to my system.

I ended up going with a pair of Vandersteen subwoofers instead.

But it sounds like it's working out well in your system....and it was a steal at that price (or many multiples of that price!).

You could of course simply Google the company for more info...or here is a link to their website:

https://rel.net/our-purpose/
 
That's a great sub, and a nice Score. REL subs come highly recommended, and get solid reviews in the press.

One question though? Is the new sub powered, with it's own amp? If so, there's no need to worry about it's impedance, and matching it to your receiver/amp. That would only matter if the sub was a passive unit, with no internal amp, that needed to be powered by your receiver. Otherwise, no need to worry about the load of the sub on your system.
 
You scored:banana:

REL are very good, and non ported is the best(imho) for music..fast and punchy
I agree, Some people believe in the benefit of the "reaction time" you gain with a port, but its milliseconds that are inaudible. Sealed also allows it to go lower and be within audible volume.
That's a great sub, and a nice Score. REL subs come highly recommended, and get solid reviews in the press.

One question though? Is the new sub powered, with it's own amp? If so, there's no need to worry about it's impedance, and matching it to your receiver/amp. That would only matter if the sub was a passive unit, with no internal amp, that needed to be powered by your receiver. Otherwise, no need to worry about the load of the sub on your system.
The REL is active, i was meaning most of the subs there were not and so would need amp power, but this particular one doesn't.
 
I agree, Some people believe in the benefit of the "reaction time" you gain with a port, but its milliseconds that are inaudible. Sealed also allows it to go lower and be within audible volume.

The REL is active, i was meaning most of the subs there were not and so would need amp power, but this particular one doesn't.

I thought you said that you had never seen nor heard of a sealed box subwoofer? What is "reaction time" in the context of a ported speaker?
 
Last edited:
I thought you said that you had never seen nor heard of a sealed box subwoofer? What is "reaction time" in the context of a ported speaker?
I was talking about sealed cabinets in relation to regular 2 ch speakers. The woofers go lower and still maintain volume, so the same would be true with a sub, i just never knew sealed ones were out there. Some people believe the cone can move more freely because it can suck air into and push it out of the cabinet, they think it moves quicker and thus gives a better punch.
 
If you say so...WIN_20180821_13_12_38_Pro.jpg
beside my left Yamaha NS-670...what do you guys think of the stands?
WIN_20180821_13_13_12_Pro.jpg
With grille
WIN_20180821_13_13_17_Pro.jpg
Without grille

From what I found on their website, this is one of the lower models.
I dont want to move it to show, but the low level inputs on the rear are gold plated.
These are supposed to use a special connector for the high level input but it did not come with it(the goodwill way) and i found to buy one on ebay it would cost $80+ so i just have cables from the pre-out jacks and even with the coupler on to run the speakers, they have power!
Also, it is not a traditional "cone" more of a flat surface with a stiff surround. Not sure if that is common with subs.
 
I was talking about sealed cabinets in relation to regular 2 ch speakers. The woofers go lower and still maintain volume, so the same would be true with a sub, i just never knew sealed ones were out there. Some people believe the cone can move more freely because it can suck air into and push it out of the cabinet, they think it moves quicker and thus gives a better punch.

I guess it depends on what is mean by "punch". I agree that ported subs have more boom, but for me the sound has an artificial feel to it. Sealed boxes sound more realistic/natural to my ears. I think most ported subs have to make some accommodation to avoid excessive cone movement below the resonant frequency, which I assume is the explanation for why they don't sound "real" to me.
 
CONGRATS! I've owned a REL sub for years. I really like what it adds to my system. If you do it right, you get a lot of extra musicality without specifically hearing the sub - you won't hear it pounding away in the corner. The only way I can notice the real effect of the sub is to turn it off. When it's off, the system does not sound as good.

I have not used my amp's pre-out to connect the sub. I have always used the high level connector. It is supposed to provide the best connection to your system. You might want to keep an eye out for one. REL sells them on its website but REL's price is probably higher than $80. Also, you might want to download REL's single sub set-up instructions. REL is unique, I think, in that it tells you to place the sub in a corner behind the speakers angled so it points to the opposite corner of the room (at least initially). Then you play with how far it sits from the corner using your ears. Then you can play with the angle so it might wind up pointing at your listening position - depending on your room. The instructions even recommend a CD track that has a long consistent bass note to help with the set-up.

Enjoy!
 
I guess it depends on what is mean by "punch". I agree that ported subs have more boom, but for me the sound has an artificial feel to it. Sealed boxes sound more realistic/natural to my ears. I think most ported subs have to make some accommodation to avoid excessive cone movement below the resonant frequency, which I assume is the explanation for why they don't sound "real" to me.
I agree, I think that sealed cabinets allow the frequencies to stay "cleaner" and not end up with "muddy" or "boomy" bass.

I have not used my amp's pre-out to connect the sub. I have always used the high level connector. It is supposed to provide the best connection to your system. You might want to keep an eye out for one. REL sells them on its website but REL's price is probably higher than $80. Also, you might want to download REL's single sub set-up instructions. REL is unique, I think, in that it tells you to place the sub in a corner behind the speakers angled so it points to the opposite corner of the room (at least initially). Then you play with how far it sits from the corner using your ears. Then you can play with the angle so it might wind up pointing at your listening position - depending on your room. The instructions even recommend a CD track that has a long consistent bass note to help with the set-up.

Enjoy![/QUOTE]
IMHO i dont think it really matters on clarity, but i suppose, if you get down to the nitty gritty, it would depend on which is better, the power amp in your system or the one in the sub.

Looks like a Q201E . Great sub I have 4 of them playing in my room .
You are correct. Also, 4! that must be a large room. One more question, I think it is normal but I will take the opportunity to ask an experienced operator, after approx. 20 mins. of operation at about 1/2 volume, does the heat sink become fairly warm? It isnt hot, but just enough to make me wonder. ( It may be worthwhile to note, I have the bass control on my amp set to 3/5 with the idea that the subs amp will not have to work as hard)
 
I agree, I think that sealed cabinets allow the frequencies to stay "cleaner" and not end up with "muddy" or "boomy" bass.

I have not used my amp's pre-out to connect the sub. I have always used the high level connector. It is supposed to provide the best connection to your system. You might want to keep an eye out for one. REL sells them on its website but REL's price is probably higher than $80. Also, you might want to download REL's single sub set-up instructions. REL is unique, I think, in that it tells you to place the sub in a corner behind the speakers angled so it points to the opposite corner of the room (at least initially). Then you play with how far it sits from the corner using your ears. Then you can play with the angle so it might wind up pointing at your listening position - depending on your room. The instructions even recommend a CD track that has a long consistent bass note to help with the set-up.

Enjoy!
IMHO i dont think it really matters on clarity, but i suppose, if you get down to the nitty gritty, it would depend on which is better, the power amp in your system or the one in the sub.


You are correct. Also, 4! that must be a large room. One more question, I think it is normal but I will take the opportunity to ask an experienced operator, after approx. 20 mins. of operation at about 1/2 volume, does the heat sink become fairly warm? It isnt hot, but just enough to make me wonder. ( It may be worthwhile to note, I have the bass control on my amp set to 3/5 with the idea that the subs amp will not have to work as hard)[/QUOTE]

Yes they do get warm . As for the 4 subs
http://www.gedlee.com/Papers/multiple subs.pdf
 
Agree...sounds like normal heat dissipation.

Don't know what connector you are talking about, but most high-end subwoofers (edited) have high-level/speaker-level connections.

REL's instructions would not do me much good..my subs are downfiring, employ a high pass filter, and have been "tuned" to the room and to the mains.

Regarding the tone control setting on your main amp...it likely has very little effect on the the subwoofer, which probably doesn't go up into the frequencies boosted or attenuated by the tone control.

Edit: I believe that REL advocates high level connections as best for sound quality.
 
Last edited:
Don't know what connector you are talking about, but most high end amps have high-level/speaker-level connections.



EJPepm5.jpg
 
it would depend on which is better, the power amp in your system or the one in the sub.
When using the high level connection to your sub, your receiver's amplifier is only providing the audio signal and is NOT using its amplifier to power the sub. The sub is using its internal amplifier.

It may be worthwhile to note, I have the bass control on my amp set to 3/5 with the idea that the subs amp will not have to work as hard
The important question here is what does having the receiver bass knob cranked up sound like on your main speakers? Listen with the sub off to see if it makes the bass too muddy. If so, turn it back down and let the speakers produce the mid bass and the sub the lower bass.
 
When using the high level connection to your sub, your receiver's amplifier is only providing the audio signal and is NOT using its amplifier to power the sub. The sub is using its internal amplifier.


The important question here is what does having the receiver bass knob cranked up sound like on your main speakers? Listen with the sub off to see if it makes the bass too muddy. If so, turn it back down and let the speakers produce the mid bass and the sub the lower bass.

In regard to your first response, when using high level inputs, the signal passes through both your pre and power amps, before entering the subs amp, when using low level inputs as i do, it only passes through your pre amp and the subs amp.

In regard to the latter, before the sub, i would run it at full, with no distortion until about 1/2 volume.
 
Back
Top Bottom