Door baffle installed
- Thread starter opusarlo
- Start date
DaveVoorhis
Addicted Member
Though the lack of doorknob now means you have to go to the bathroom outdoors...
opusarlo
Active Member
The gap is engineered there to accommodate power and signal wires that will feed at least one amplifier behind the door. I will install a flexible "mudflap" on the bottom of the door with holes cut in it for the wires. Not trying to sound too much like a D-bag, but I would rather install the pro amps behind the baffle so I can look at the McIntosh blue lights on the rack without distraction. The door will remain functional with a barn door handle installed to open and close it. Cam locks will hold the door securely closed.
quiet
Addicted Member
Decorate it, tapestry.
Marine0811
I love it loud!
That’s cool! My wife would never go for that
nyhifihead
Well-Known Member
nice ultimaxs, those move a lot of air, I would be concerned with how airtight the door is, perhaps retrofitting some type of shower door rubber seal?
Also the mudflap idea is pretty cool but you are going to get a TON of loss through it, not to mention it will be blowing around and making noise constantly.
I'm not sure what's behind that wall but I would drill through and snake the signal and power cables (run dedicated outlet if need be) through the wall to the left of the baffle door, use something like this low to the ground, I am assuming there's room back.
It'll have better function & form than runningrwires on ground
If your going to go all out on an IB system the last thing you want is sealing/vibration/mechanical noise issues
Also the mudflap idea is pretty cool but you are going to get a TON of loss through it, not to mention it will be blowing around and making noise constantly.
I'm not sure what's behind that wall but I would drill through and snake the signal and power cables (run dedicated outlet if need be) through the wall to the left of the baffle door, use something like this low to the ground, I am assuming there's room back.
It'll have better function & form than runningrwires on ground
If your going to go all out on an IB system the last thing you want is sealing/vibration/mechanical noise issues
gdmoore28
Super Member
That's a cool idea. And all the suggestions have been quite good, as well. But I'm sure the OP will work thru any problems that pop up as he integrates this system. IB used to be quite commonly used in the 50s and 60s, with many speaker manufacturers offering guidelines for installation in walls, ceilings, attics, and basements. It'll be interesting to hear how this works out.
To the OP: Is that a solid core door? What kind of amps will you be using to drive the subs? What kind of subs are they? How did you decide to use those specific speakers? Do you have an estimated crossover point that you will use for these? Will you be using active crossovers?
I like your idea and will be waiting to hear the results. And I certainly don't blame you for wanting to make your McIntosh gear the center of attention. That kind of gear is very expensive, looks like it, and deserves to be shown off!
GeeDeeEmm
To the OP: Is that a solid core door? What kind of amps will you be using to drive the subs? What kind of subs are they? How did you decide to use those specific speakers? Do you have an estimated crossover point that you will use for these? Will you be using active crossovers?
I like your idea and will be waiting to hear the results. And I certainly don't blame you for wanting to make your McIntosh gear the center of attention. That kind of gear is very expensive, looks like it, and deserves to be shown off!
GeeDeeEmm
opusarlo
Active Member
Absolutely zero WAF on this. No sir...that will never happen.
opusarlo
Active Member
It is infinite baffle. The room is 1000 cubes if empty, but it is not nearly empty. Going to move stuff around to find out just how many cubes work best.
opusarlo
Active Member
The mudflap will be on the inside of the door so the pressure only creates a tighter seal.
opusarlo
Active Member
Absolutely a solid core door and 3/4 plywood on top and bottom as well for 3.25" total thickness. I am using a Behringer iNuke 6000 on Dayton UM 18 subs (1k wpc rms handling). The amp claims 3k wpc, but it bench tests closer to 2k wpc. I chose the Daytons because they were capable when plugged into winISD, and the other manufacturer's site was hacked. I was also considering Stereo Integrity, but the daytons priced out better and performed well on the Data-Bass. I currently have the subs crossed at 80, but will likely be fiddling around with it until I find the sweet spot. I will be using the DSP/active crossover that is built in the iNuke unless I find it is lacking - Behringer is not known for super high quality gear. Thank you for taking the time to look.
opusarlo
Active Member
very clever idea. Thank you.
JP
7480 74111110101115
The cones move in and out, and so will the air.
