Kappa 6.1 cabinet refinish/repair

[Natertots]

I am looking for advice on how best to refinish/repair what appears to be some water damage to some Kappa 6.1 series II’s I picked up a while back. I have done some searching and the advice I have found is to hand sand with 300 grit and use Howard's Restorafinish Golden Oak to refinish. This approached worked well for the OP of that thread, but the cabinet damage was some fading, not darkening of the veneer like mine.

Are there any other suggestions on how to approach the marks on these cabinets? I appreciate any advice or suggestions ya’ll may have. Thanks!




P.S. The last picture is only some scratching and paint on the cabinet. I feel like I have a better grasp of how to deal with this, but any suggestions specific to this finish/veneer are greatly appreciated.

 

[goodolpg]

The "dark" discoloration may be into the wood "a ways"...that's relative of course.
Not sure if bleaching would give a consistent tone. Sanding would if deep enough, but how thick is the veneer as you don't want to sand through it.
Maybe others can offer some help.

 

[Natertots]

The "dark" discoloration may be into the wood "a ways"...that's relative of course.
Not sure if bleaching would give a consistent tone. Sanding would if deep enough, but how thick is the veneer as you don't want to sand through it.

That is my concern. The veneer is not especially thick, I know this from inspecting it when refoaming the woofers. Assuming the stain goes all the way through, would sanding and treating make the spots any better, worse, or make no difference?

 

[goodolpg]

I doubt the stain has penetrated all the way through the veneer.
If they were mine I would sand the tops (is it the tops or the bottoms that have the darkened areas?) trying to get a fairly consistent raw wood on the whole panel. If it's the tops I'd want them to look pretty good, I'd be not so picky if they were the bottoms, I'd just settle for better there if pretty good wasn't possible. But that's just me.
Them MAYBE try a true wood bleach, not a clothes bleach, if there is still some darkened areas, keep the bleach contained to only the darkened areas. Maybe even try a weak mix of it first as a test. Then you could stain the tops to match the rest of the cabinets.
The last picture, I see one little blob of paint on a flute, then two flutes over maybe a small bare spot.
I'd try fingernail or plastic putty knife to get the paint off. They do make felt tip touch up pens now for wood, those little spots you could probably just hit with the proper color pen.

 

[Natertots]

I doubt the stain has penetrated all the way through the veneer.
If they were mine I would sand the tops (is it the tops or the bottoms that have the darkened areas?) trying to get a fairly consistent raw wood on the whole panel. If it's the tops I'd want them to look pretty good, I'd be not so picky if they were the bottoms, I'd just settle for better there if pretty good wasn't possible. But that's just me.
Them MAYBE try a true wood bleach, not a clothes bleach, if there is still some darkened areas, keep the bleach contained to only the darkened areas. Maybe even try a weak mix of it first as a test. Then you could stain the tops to match the rest of the cabinets.
The last picture, I see one little blob of paint on a flute, then two flutes over maybe a small bare spot.
I'd try fingernail or plastic putty knife to get the paint off. They do make felt tip touch up pens now for wood, those little spots you could probably just hit with the proper color pen.

Yes, it’s the tops. They are not very large cabinets so I might do exactly as you have suggested. I was getting ready to start working on them and I think you are correct, the staining doesn’t appear to be as deep as I originally feared. It’s still too soon to know, and I have been pulled away to work no, but I feel better about things. Thanks for your advice.

 

[goodolpg]

I have no doubt you can make them better, do try to get the tops as consistent (bare) as possible before doing any color (stain or restor-a-finish).
You did mention 300 sandpaper and you can start with that, you may need to try 220. Less abrasive, 300 is less abrasive than 220, is better as long as it works. Don't go real rough like 60 or 80 grit, as any scratches made by the sand paper will show once you do add color. Scratches from rough grit could be sanded out but the depth of the veneer is a factor as you are aware.