Yet Another M-80 Restore With Opinions Needed

ivandezande

AK Subscriber
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This guy somehow hasn't blow up yet. Glue, corrosion, broken binding posts waiting to short out, you name it, it's got it. Serial 3301.
My main question is; is it worth dealing with? Looks to be +60 components from diodes to jumpers that I'll have to replace. Feet are gone. Side panels are gone. Binding posts are kaput.

But if it is: what's a good binding post solution that you've seen? Feet seem impossible to find, is there a rack mount kit for the side panels or something?
It's looking like a 6 month mess at this point.

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You can make your own posts much like those fancy ones.
There are nice machined aluminum feet for sale cheap on eBay you can buy. Side panels I'm not so sure but you should be able to source them from any of the M amp line.
Other than that, I'd fix it up just for fun especially since it's not actually blown up.
 
Sorry forgot to update - couldn't even get it going again yet, just so many parts I had to replace I must have goofed somewhere. It's not shorted but it won't come out of protection, I'll get there eventually.
 
Did you check or replace all the bad fusibles? Diodes ( zeners)?
 
Have you got it on a DBT while testing?
If not, would definitely be wise, but if so, remember it needs a 150W bulb (or for the bias pots to be set to 0mV / minimum with 100W bulb) before it'll come out of protection.

When you say it hasn't blown up shorted though, does that mean it originally did come out of protection, and doesn't anymore?
 
Have you got it on a DBT while testing?
If not, would definitely be wise, but if so, remember it needs a 150W bulb (or for the bias pots to be set to 0mV / minimum with 100W bulb) before it'll come out of protection.

When you say it hasn't blown up shorted though, does that mean it originally did come out of protection, and doesn't anymore?
It used to work fine. I have it on a 100W right now I believe, I'll try adding some wattage.
 
It used to work fine. I have it on a 100W right now I believe, I'll try adding some wattage.
Is the bulb staying bright when it stays in protection?
If it is staying bright then this could be the problem, but if it's dim it won't be.

I'd try zeroing the bias pots first (i.e. no bias: 0mV) with the 100W you have, that way you can't send any more current through and make any existing problem worse. If that doesn't work, try a 120-150W. Class A switch needs to be "off" obviously.
 

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