Pioneer HPM-100 Restoration Project (Veneer removal)

Wanted to give something back. Learned so much about the hobby. You wont find that screw info anywhere else. Save this.

This is a great forum and I also have learned a great deal here. Thanks for giving some of your knowledge back!
 
Good choice. I used original Weldwood Contact Cement for my veneer project and it worked fantastic. Be sure to use a roller to apply it - a brush leaves uneven applications behind and will create the very lumps you want to avoid. Coats that are too heavy will do the same. (Ask me how I know :dunno:) I learned to apply two medium-light coats to both surfaces, allowed to dry to the touch before bonding. Followed that with a veneer roller, which proved essential to the task.

Looking forward to seeing your work with that gorgeous veneer you've chosen.

Been watching lots of videos for tips. I'll be using a 1/8" Mohair Roller to apply the adhesive and pros say not to use a J-Roller. Use a spatula because you can apply 8 times more force.
 
Truly, thank you for the documenting of your project.... little tips here and there i picked up!!

I hope I can return the favor some day. I have some JBL L36's that need...
 
Additionally, I'm curious over the crossover work. Why update the caps at all? Original crossovers were only electrolytic to the super tweeter. I sort of feel you downgraded the caps.
 
4 x 8' raw Walnut veneer sheet, no backing, 3/16". These are speakers so I opted for thicker veneer. This isn't a TT Plinth 1/40 peel and stick veneer. Will adhere with spray adhesive and J-Roll it. Here are my supplies. UV Dye, Gel Stain, Gel Coat and Gloss Finish. Yes they will be gloss. That's what I want. View attachment 1230875 View attachment 1230876 View attachment 1230878

I LOVE that you kept it walnut, true to the original. I am truly in awe of your dedication to this project. I have a mint pair of the 200W model so if you need any measurements or pics etc let me know.
 
Additionally, I'm curious over the crossover work. Why update the caps at all? Original crossovers were only electrolytic to the super tweeter. I sort of feel you downgraded the caps.


I assure you this mod improved the HPM's. It's well documented on this site.
 
I assure you this mod improved the HPM's. It's well documented on this site.

Really a nice job you are doing there. One of the more enjoyable I have read lately. I have been studying up on the crossover mods and can't decide follow some of the recommended mods or just replace the existing components as is. Any advice or links to infor on what you finally decided to do with yours? Thanks again for the awesome job! Enjoy!
 
Really a nice job you are doing there. One of the more enjoyable I have read lately. I have been studying up on the crossover mods and can't decide follow some of the recommended mods or just replace the existing components as is. Any advice or links to infor on what you finally decided to do with yours? Thanks again for the awesome job! Enjoy!
I'll email you a step by step project for HPM-100 crossover mod. Has everything you need and parts list too.
 
I was just posting with questions about restoring a pair of these and someone pointed me to your thread. Glad to see it’s a recent and on going project. Keep us updated and I’ll be following this thread. How did you end up going about the veneer removal? I think you said solvents didn’t work so what did you do? Also, I’m not very knowledable on veneer installation but 1/16” sounds thick. Will you see edges when finished because of this or will your finishing compounds blend these edges in? I know the installation order is important but still wondering. I have some 3m backed veneer in storage but not sure if it’ll be a good choice or not.

Thanks for your time and information!
 
I was just posting with questions about restoring a pair of these and someone pointed me to your thread. Glad to see it’s a recent and on going project. Keep us updated and I’ll be following this thread. How did you end up going about the veneer removal? I think you said solvents didn’t work so what did you do? Also, I’m not very knowledable on veneer installation but 1/16” sounds thick. Will you see edges when finished because of this or will your finishing compounds blend these edges in? I know the installation order is important but still wondering. I have some 3m backed veneer in storage but not sure if it’ll be a good choice or not.

Thanks for your time and information!

My plan is to do a test piece and go through the entire veneer process. Then use my stains and test results. Acetone was good for the front "face" veneer strips but I used a belt sander, then orbital, then hand sanded for perfectly square edges on sides. Used my level and used wood bondo to make it true. I work for the airlines and summer flying is insane this summer. Everyone has money lately. The key is the glue. If its lumpy you will have lumpy veneer. No spray glue. Using gel glue and rolling it on. An expert advised this.
 
Really a nice job you are doing there. One of the more enjoyable I have read lately. I have been studying up on the crossover mods and can't decide follow some of the recommended mods or just replace the existing components as is. Any advice or links to infor on what you finally decided to do with yours? Thanks again for the awesome job! Enjoy!

Send me your email.
 
Decided to fabricate a new spec sheet and laminate it for the rear cabinets. Laminated it to prevent tearing. Used PDF format for high res printing, and transferred the MM/YYYY info to the top of the sheet near SN info. Sheet size from Pioneer was 10 x 7", and I used Arial Terminal Font, 30 point, to match original Pioneer font and size. My speakers were MM-YI-28469 Q and MM-YI26543 Q, indicating they were made in Sept 1978.View attachment 1230842



Do you have a PDF file you could send me of you operation guide sheet for the back of the HPM 100 speaker..
 
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