JBL 2269H subwoofer build

[donprice]

The title pretty much says it all. I decided I needed to "upgrade" my JBL B460 and eventually pulled the trigger on a new 2269H driver. It is quite the beast though in hindsight I probably should have ordered the 4 ohm 2269G version. The basic plan was to build something similar to the JBL Sub 18 to go with my DIY M2 clones.

I built a CNC router kit a few months ago so everything was designed around the ~32"x32" cutting limits. As you can see from the photos, the CNC did lead to some excessively creative bracing. More photos to follow...

 

[donprice]

1/2" baltic birch plywood used. I doubled up the plywood to make the cabinet solid. And heavy. Picked up some scrap 5" PVC pipe for ports. Duratex for baffles and bottom. Rosewood veener for tops and sides. The veneer was already cut for another project so I wasn't able to wrap it around the way I wanted to. This will be good enough for rock'n'roll.

 

[Stan man]

Very nice !!
Do follow up through your progressions and ultimately their performance.

 

[Marine0811]

Sweet! Nice job

 

[donprice]

Now you can see why matching the top and side veneers was not critical. Given the size and location of the sub, it is going to get stuff set on it - drinks, tools, pictures, christmas decorations, and plants. 1/4" tempered smoked glass isn't cheap but it should eliminate any discussion of what is or is not appropriate to place upon my beloved sub.

Power is provided by a Crown XTi 2002 which is good for about 1600 watts bridged into 8 ohms. I haven't spent much time time beating on them but should get the chance this weekend.

 

[tarior]

Looks nice. Curious to hear you thoughts on whether it is a success.

 

[donprice]

I've been busy replacing the carpet in the house which required the teardown and reassembly of basically everything electronic in the house....so I'm just now getting everything back in place, wired, and tested. Currently working on adjusting the gain levels and checking connections to get rid of a little ground hum. The sub amp is currently running flat (no DSP enabled) though the Yamaha YPAO was allowed to do what it does during set up. Need to eventually work in a high-pass filter around 20 Hz to protect against over-excursion on ULF content. Currently using 60 Hz as the x-over to the M2 clones. A quick test with the Telarc sampler cut of the 1812 Overture was lots of fun. I think there in no doubt that finding the finding the performance limits of the system will require a mic and hearing protection

 

[donprice]

Having experienced some extreme paranoia regarding dust cap punching by visiting children, I decided it was time to work on a grill. Lots of scrap 5mm plywood in the shop so let's start with that. Here we are just getting started.


A flat frame would work but I wanted to come of with something three dimensional like some of the classic L series speakers of the 70s & 80s. I haven't figured out how to do surface profiles on my CNC router so I'll do it the hard way and cut up some pieces and glue them up.

The holes allow for a threaded rod to align them for easier glue up after cutting them loose on the band saw. And here's a shot showing them glued up. Notice the recess (~1 mm) for the grill mesh.

 

[donprice]

The expanded metal grill mesh gets 2-part epoxy to hold it in place. Here's one before the epoxy and I forgot the after shot.

George doing some QA/QC work and checking to see if I need more S-N Oktoberfest.

Here we are after some primer, paint, and glazing compound.

After some sanding we get this....

More to follow once I get around to the fabric grill cloth.

 

[nedseg]

Beyond inspiring - you've done a stunning job of it!
I'll be very interested in your observations about how it sounds compared to the B460.
What is it's external/internal dim's/volume??
If I hadn't stumbled on a bargain like new 4645C, I was going to go the DIY 2269 too...and now wonder if it might be worth it, if only for the space savings!
Do you really think you need a sub with the M2s? (Yah, I know, stupid question?)
As near as I can tell, I'm getting at least as good performance out of the 2216ND1s in my L200s as Scott is getting out of his DIY M2s (but I have a 'better' room), and those are stupendously tight down low....the 4645C can't quite match them, but does LOUD really well
Kudos on your craftsmanship - please keep the 'good news' coming!!

 

[donprice]

Thanks for the kind words!

External ignoring the pedestal is about 31.75" wide x 28" tall x 26.25" deep which works out to an internal gross volume of about 11 ft^3. I think closer to 9 ft^ once you figure in the bracing, driver, and the rather large 5" diameter ports.

Sound-wise I really can't say it is much different than the B460. It has more displacement, lower distortion, and more power available so I know I can get more output....but much like going from 250 to 350 hp in my truck, it makes no difference 99% of the time.

The sub is more about want than need. I figured I might as well build something that matches the M2 clones since they are in the great room and part of every day.

The house has an open great-room plan so I probably have 1200 ft^2 open to the system so the bass energy has lots of space to fill. No matter how capable the M2 clones are, I still like the idea of not worrying about them if the volume is cranked when aliens attack and blow something up. Later revisions of the M2 DSP curves include a 27 Hz high-pass filter (and current limiter?) to limit the risk of wrecking a 2216Nd when you pound the crap out of it with an iTech 5000 (beyond my budget or needs).

I always wondered why JBL didn't build a "subwoofer" version of the 2242 similar to the 2245 vs 2240. I would be tempted to coat the 2242 cone with Duratex (hillbilly aquaplas) to increase the mass and shift the Fs lower. Tuning the 4645C cabinet lower is also an option for home use.

 

[toddalin]

Thanks for the kind words!


I always wondered why JBL didn't build a "subwoofer" version of the 2242 similar to the 2245 vs 2240. I would be tempted to coat the 2242 cone with Duratex (hillbilly aquaplas) to increase the mass and shift the Fs lower. Tuning the 4645C cabinet lower is also an option for home use.

A 2241 makes a much better sub/stereo speaker than a 2242. I was looking for 2235s but the 2241 is not that far off for deep bass and the bass is much more tactle/real than the foam edge woofers. I wouldn't even consider the 2242. It's just a big loud bass driver. Mine are in ~6 cu feet.

 

[donprice]

Finally getting wrapped up in time for Thanksgiving visitors.

Don't think the mesh is quite neat enough for the living room...eliminate the center rib and it would be fine for a man cave. I cut the fabric too small the first time and almost screwed it up a second time.


Did not get the corners as neat as I wanted but no one will see them jammed into place. Neo magnets in frame and baffle so it can't fall out. Actually it is tight with nothing to get a grip on so removal will require sticking a screwdriver into the frame to pry it out. Anyone that wants to see the driver naked has to settle for photos.


So here is the final product. The rounded front and bevel mimics the style of the M2 waveguide to make them look like a matched set.

 

[toddalin]

Very nice, And the 2269 was an excellent choice for the sub.

 

[RCA guy]

On this "old" but venerable thread, the question was raised "With M2s, Is a subwoofer needed?" My answer is yes. Because the published f3 of the M2 is 37Hz, and piano A0 is 27.5Hz, 5-string electric bass goes to 30Hz, and double bass viol with C-extension to 32.7Hz. Furthermore unlike midrange perception of doubling\halving of loudness with SPL change of ~10dB, <<200Hz it is ~5dB, so even a 3dB change is critical. Finally, the very low harmonic distortion of the 2269 reduces likelihood that a 2nd or escalating 3rd harmonic will be perceived as louder than a fundamental at 30Hz.

 

[damacman]

Those are gorgeous!

 

[Ultima GTR]

Very nice build! I'm sure you posted on your DIY M2 build as well and I'll go find that thread next. I have a pair of M2 and a pair of SUB18s in my dedicated listening room and agree with RCA Guy with his reasoning for adding the SUB18. So many would say it has to do with ear splitting volume, but that isn't it at all. Even while listening quietly and to relatively simple acoustic instruments, it makes a difference in the weight of the music. I use the 27Hz London Architect file for the M2s and have them crossed at 70hz @ 24dB LR using a BSS BLU800 with a miniDSP SHD Studio handling the room correction below 250hz (traditional Harman Curve).

On this "old" but venerable thread, the question was raised "With M2s, Is a subwoofer needed?" My answer is yes. Because the published f3 of the M2 is 37Hz, and piano A0 is 27.5Hz, 5-string electric bass goes to 30Hz, and double bass viol with C-extension to 32.7Hz. Furthermore unlike midrange perception of doubling\halving of loudness with SPL change of ~10dB, <<200Hz it is ~5dB, so even a 3dB change is critical. Finally, the very low harmonic distortion of the 2269 reduces likelihood that a 2nd or escalating 3rd harmonic will be perceived as louder than a fundamental at 30Hz.

 

[Lalo57]

Mi enhorabuena, muy buen trabajo y profesional. Estoy admirado de ver estos trabajos tan profesionales.
Ese sub debe de dar buenas patadas en el pecho.
Yo tengo en mi sala 2 Monolitch de 15” y son muy terremotos, me gustan, pero estoy buscando algo que me dé esa patada seca y creo que este driver 2269H será propicio para encontrar esa patada.
Me gustaría hacerme este HUM de 18”.
Felicidades por tu gran trabajo.

Saludos;
Eladio.

 

[GordonW]

I just rebuilt and modded, a JBL 2258H for member Bobhorn. Basically, started with a 2258 frame, and installed a voice coil with longer windings (still the correct Differential Drive type), put in a slightly softer spider, and added about 2.7 ounces of mass (akin to the "mass ring" in the 2245). This should be fine- as it's not going to be abused like it would have been in a PA application- "loosening things up" a bit should be beneficial here.

Looks like it will make it into the high-20s, in about a 6 cubic foot enclosure, with similar sensitivity to a 2245.

This will be interesting, to see how the enclosure and the rest of the build, goes for Bob!

Regards,
Gordon.

 

[Mr Boochie]

The title pretty much says it all. I decided I needed to "upgrade" my JBL B460 and eventually pulled the trigger on a new 2269H driver. It is quite the beast though in hindsight I probably should have ordered the 4 ohm 2269G version. The basic plan was to build something similar to the JBL Sub 18 to go with my DIY M2 clones.

I built a CNC router kit a few months ago so everything was designed around the ~32"x32" cutting limits. As you can see from the photos, the CNC did lead to some excessively creative bracing. More photos to follow...

That is one of the most eloquent speaker builds. It makes my DIY sub look like a Neanderthal.