Marantz 2220 (non B) Complete Restoration

MBuras

Restoration is an Addiction
I've reworked quite a few receivers since my last thread documenting a Marantz 2325 restoration. Most of them are covered pretty well on AK but I didn't find much information on this model so thought I would contribute my experience documenting the boards and finding replacement parts.

The unit that I worked on was purchased on the "Big E" auction site as a functioning but scratchy receiver. True to the description it indeed had volume control issues when tested but otherwise functioned as expected. A perfect candidate for a straight up rebuild with no underlying issues to diagnose. A nice change from some of the junk I buy there.

Below I'll document each board and parts used from Mouser. These selections worked for me but your milage may vary. Hopefully some find it useful.
 
P900 Phono Board
Photo Feb 09, 5 04 22 PM.jpg

The documented contents of the original board are as follows:
C901/902 - 35v/2.2uf low leakage capacitors
C905/906 - 25v/22uf low leakage capacitors
C909/C910 - 16v/47uf capacitors
C919 - 50v/100uf capacitor
H901 thru H904 - 2SC1327 transistors
H905/H906 - 2SC458 transistors

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C901/C902 - WIMA 50v/2.2uf film 505-MKS22.2/50/10
C905/C906 - Nichicon 25v/22uf low leakage 647-UKL1E220KDDANA
C909/C910 - Elna Silmic II 25v/47uf 555-RFS25V470MG3#5
C919 - Elna Silmic II 50v/100uf 555-RFS50V101MI5#5 (watch out on this one - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)
H901 thru H904 - Fairchild 512-KSC1845FTA
H905/H906 - Fairchild 512-KSC1845FTA (watch the pinout on replacements - originals are BCE and new are ECB)

Photo Feb 10, 11 38 08 AM.jpg
 
P500 Preamp Board
Photo Feb 09, 5 04 29 PM.jpg

The documented contents of the original board are as follows:
C503/C504 - 50v/4.7uf low leakage capacitors
C505/C506 - 50v/1uf low leakage capacitors
C509/C510 - 10v/100uf capacitors
C511/C512 - 35v/10uf capacitors
C513/C514 - 25v/0.47uf low leakage capacitors
C515 - 35v/100uf capacitor
H501 thru H506 - 2SC458 transistors

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C503/C504 - Nichicon 50v/4.7uf low leakage 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA (watch out here - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)
C505/C506 - WIMA 50v/1uf film 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
C509/C510 - Elna Silmic II 16v/100uf 555-RFS16V101MH3#5 (watch out here - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)
C511/C512 - Elna Silmic II 35v/10uf 555-RFS35V100ME3#5
C513/C514 - Nichicon 50v/0.47uf film 647-QYX1H474JTP (normally would use WIMA but was out and these were handy)
C515 - Elna Silmic II 35v/100uf 555-RFS35V101MH5#5
H501 thru H506 - Fairchild 512-KSC1845FTA (watch the pinout on replacements - originals are BCE and new are ECB)

Photo Feb 10, 11 38 25 AM.jpg
 
P800 Power Supply Board

Photo Feb 12, 9 51 49 AM.jpg

The documented contents of the original board are as follows:
C803 - 63v/330uf capacitor
C804 - 35v/470uf capacitor
C805 - 16v/470uf capacitor
C806 - 50v/47uf capacitor
C808 - 50v/47uf capacitor
C809 - 50v/100uf capacitor
C810 - 16v/470uf capacitor
H803 - 2SC1213 transistor
H804/H805/H808 - S1B-01-02 Diodes
R802 - 270ohm/1watt resistor
R803 - 330ohm/1watt resistor
Notes: you don't have to replace the diodes or resistors. They don't usually go bad but I like fresh replacements.

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C803 - Nichicon Fine Gold 63v/330uf 647-UFG1J331MHM
C804 - Nichicon Fine Gold 50v/470uf 647-UFG1H471MHM (increased voltage based on availability)
C805 - Nichicon Fine Gold 16v/470uf 647-UFG1C471MPM
C806 - Nichicon Fine Gold 50v/47uf 647-UFG1H470MPM
C808 - Nichicon Fine Gold 50v/47uf 647-UFG1H470MPM
C809 - Nichicon Fine Gold 50v/100uf 647-UFG1H101MPM (watch out here - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)
C810 - Nichicon Fine Gold 16v/470uf 647-UFG1C471MPM
H803 - Fairchild 512-KSC2383YTA
H804/H805/H808 - Fairchild Ultrafast 512-UF4005
R802 - KOA Speer 270ohm/2watt 660-MO2CT631R271J (increased wattage and fits in same space)
R803 - KOA Speer 330ohm/2watt 660-MO2C331J (increased wattage and fits in same space)

Photo Feb 13, 1 48 28 PM.jpg
 
P700 Power Amp Board & other misc items

Photo Feb 10, 5 04 44 PM.jpg

I got a nice shot of the power board before I started work but forgot to shoot the finished product until it was installed. Sorry. Huge pain to get this board in and out so no redo's. Also never got a photo of the coupling/filter capacitors beforehand but they're in the finished shot along with the power board.

The documented contents of the original board are as follows:
C701/C702 - 50v/0.47uf low leakage capacitors
C703/C704 - 35v/220uf capacitors
C707 thru C710 - 50v/47uf capacitors
C711/C712 - 35v/10uf capacitors
C715/C716 - 10v/100uf capacitors
C717/C718 - 35v/22uf capacitors
H701/H702 - 2SC945 transistors
H703/H704 - 2SC1175 transistors
H705/H706 - 2SC371 transistors
H707/H708 - 2SA562 transistors
R713/R714 - 2.2Kohm/0.5watt resistors
R721/R722 - 3.3Kohm/0.5watt resistors
R723/R724 - 100Kohm/0.5watt trimmer
R729/R730 - 470ohm/0.5watt trimmer
R747 thru R750 - 0.5ohm/3watt fireproof resistors
R753/R754 - 10ohm/0.5watt resistors

Notes: you don't have to replace the resistors. They don't usually go bad but I like fresh replacements.

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C701/C702 - Nichicon 50v/0.47uf film 647-QYX1H474JTP (normally would use WIMA but was out and these were handy)
C703/C704 - Elna Silmic II 35v/220uf 555-RFS35V221MI6#5
C707 thru C710 - Elna Silmic II 50v/47uf 555-RFS50V470MH4#5
C711/C712 - Elna Silmic II 35v/10uf 555-RFS35V100ME3#5
C715/C716 - Elna Silmic II 16v/100uf 555-RFS16V101MH3#5 (watch out here - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)
C717/C718 - Elna Silmic II 35v/22uf 555-RFS35V220MG3#5
H701/H702 - Fairchild 512-KSC2383YTA
H703/H704 - Fairchild 512-KSC2383YTA
H705/H706 - Fairchild 512-KSC945CYTA (make sure to get the CYTA and not YTA - the extra C denotes center collector ECB which matches original)
H707/H708 - Fairchild 512-KSA733CYTA (make sure to get the CYTA and not YTA - the extra C denotes center collector ECB which matches original)
R713/R714 - KOA Speer 2.2Kohm/1watt 660-MO1C222J (increased wattage and fits in same space)
R721/R722 - KOA Speer 3.3Kohm/1watt 660-MO1C332J (increased wattage and fits in same space)
R723/R724 - Bournes 100Kohm/0.5watt 652-3386F-1-104LF
R729/R730 - Bournes 470ohm/0.5watt 652-3386F-1-471LF
R747 thru R750 - Vishay 0.5ohm/3watt fireproof 594-AC03W0R500J
R753/R754 - KOA Speer 10ohm/1watt 660-MOS1C100J (increased wattage and fits in same space)

Photo Feb 13, 1 48 18 PM.jpg

And then finishing up with 4 other system capacitors.

The documented contents are listed below:
C001 - 10v/33uf capacitor (on the meter leads)
C004/C005 - 50v/2200uf capacitor
C006 - 63v/4700uf capacitor

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C001 - Elna Silmic II 25v/330uf 555-RFS25V330MG3#5 (increased voltage based on availability)
C004/C005 - Nichicon Gold Tune 63v/3300uf 647-LKG1J332MESCBK (increased voltage & uf based on availability & person preference)
C006 - Nichicon Gold Tune 80v/4700uf 647-LKG1K472MESCBK (increased voltage based on availability. in hindsight this should have been a 40mm capacitor instead of 35mm. Luckily I had an extra clamp that fit properly.)
 
Last edited:
And that's it. Also replaced bulbs with OEM, cleaned controls, regreased outputs, etc. Fairly open case to work in but the amp board and power board require creative wire moving to get access to the back of the boards. Plenty of tips on AK about how best to do that.

Again, this is what worked for me. I don't claim to have the one and only answer. Just adding to the database of information available at AK. Enjoy!
 
Thanks for your efforts, that was a lot of work! The info will no doubt help someone out some day, especially that center collector lead part number tip. :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, after having just finished a 2252B and 2330B this one took longer than I expected. Mainly access issues for amp, power and filter/coupling caps. Lots of creative wire desoldering/pin desoldering/wire unwrapping to gain access. Oh, and the TO-3 output transistor pins are soldered directly to wire...UGH!!!!

I've learned so much from contributors like yourself I can't help but feel a need to give back. :)
 
This is a very helpful list, thank you. I'm finishing up a 2220 right now. I looked for a 40mm cap at Mouser, but they only have a few that are correct, and those are out of stock. I'm probably just going to replace the clamp like you did.
 
Yes. Those clamps come in handy when the proper size isn’t available. 35mm is still a good size and keeps it original looking.
 
And that's it. Also replaced bulbs with OEM, cleaned controls, regreased outputs, etc. Fairly open case to work in but the amp board and power board require creative wire moving to get access to the back of the boards. Plenty of tips on AK about how best to do that.

Again, this is what worked for me. I don't claim to have the one and only answer. Just adding to the database of information available at AK. Enjoy!

Hi, I just picked up a Marantz 2226 which looks to be pretty similar to the 2220. I have been looking for a parts replacement list and so far yours looks the best. I just purchased the service manual for a good price but don't have it yet. I have dug into it a little to clean it mostly and begin cleaning before I order parts. Am I correct in thinking that the 2226 is close enough to the 2220 that I can use your parts list which was great by the way, to get started? Thanks so much for the parts list if nothing else it is a place to start.
 
Hi, I just picked up a Marantz 2226 which looks to be pretty similar to the 2220. I have been looking for a parts replacement list and so far yours looks the best. I just purchased the service manual for a good price but don't have it yet. I have dug into it a little to clean it mostly and begin cleaning before I order parts. Am I correct in thinking that the 2226 is close enough to the 2220 that I can use your parts list which was great by the way, to get started? Thanks so much for the parts list if nothing else it is a place to start.

I wouldn't mess with trying to cross-ref the two units.
Get the 2226 manual, print out the various boards parts list.
Then open the unit up, find\pull the boards and verify installed parts match the parts list.
Then decide how far you want to go on re-capping, and order parts.

That's really the right way to do it, IMO. Otherwise, you'll be wasting time and ending up with boards that aren't exactly what you planned out (because you didn't have exactly the right caps at the right time and so substituted or just skipped it)
 
Nice selection of parts. And your notes are so valuable! I have a 2220 that awaits enough time to rebuild it. Your tips

You mentioned using a 35mm clamp. Here's the part number for a 35mm clamp that is close to the original in finish and the holes line up:

Mfg Kemet
Part PYC6041
Digikey 399-11537-ND
 
I wouldn't mess with trying to cross-ref the two units.
Get the 2226 manual, print out the various boards parts list.
Then open the unit up, find\pull the boards and verify installed parts match the parts list.
Then decide how far you want to go on re-capping, and order parts.

That's really the right way to do it, IMO. Otherwise, you'll be wasting time and ending up with boards that aren't exactly what you planned out (because you didn't have exactly the right caps at the right time and so substituted or just skipped it)
Thanks for your message and good advice. The unit works quite well as it is so I can easily wait for the service manual. I still liked your presentation of your work on the 2220. I found it interesting that you replace some of the resistors. That is the first restoration I have read about where the restorer specially mentions the resistor unless they are obviously bad. Thanks again and happy holidays.
 
That is the first restoration I have read about where the restorer specially mentions the resistor unless they are obviously bad
We have a current thread going about carbon composition resistors. And from the group and what I've read, my new standard is to replace the CC with Carbon Films as part of any restoration effort. Between not aging gracefully, a tendency to soak up moisture and then shift plus they are over 40 years old and not the highest quality to start with, it makes sense. Pretty much the same reasons 40 year caps need to go.
 
The dial pointer on my 2220 is not connected (got a garage sale) I think it is suppose to be connected to the selector switch? Do you happen to know? Tks
 
C809 - Nichicon Fine Gold 50v/100uf 647-UFG1H101MPM (watch out here - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)

Recapping my 2220 P700 now and came across your thread. Thanks a ton for posting this - it's very helpful.

This caught my eye though. Can you confirm that C715 and C 716 are orientated the same as their partners C717 and C718? I don't see a mistake in the polarity on either the 2220 layout diagram from the manual or the PCB in my unit. On mine, the negative leads on both the right pair and the left pair all face inwards towards the center line of the PCB.

Thanks.
 
Back
Top Bottom