Mark Levinson 432 basket case.
- Thread starter Ds2000
- Start date
It was packed better than most things I’ve received. Impressive!
The face got its brackets put back into good enough shape, the switch bound wing straightened out and the slide in crimp connection for the power switch fully re-formed. Then the myriad broken aluminum studs from the standoffs were drilled out and tapped to number 8 thread size. Of course something had to go awry, the rapper snapped in the last hole. I tried a few things before I threw in the towel and bought a used Walton 4 flute tap extractor. Minor issue.
The good is that I’ve straightened the switch issue minus the square four pin plugs on each end which will be replaced. Once the new standoffs and plugs show up, the backside of the faceplate will be complete.
The face got its brackets put back into good enough shape, the switch bound wing straightened out and the slide in crimp connection for the power switch fully re-formed. Then the myriad broken aluminum studs from the standoffs were drilled out and tapped to number 8 thread size. Of course something had to go awry, the rapper snapped in the last hole. I tried a few things before I threw in the towel and bought a used Walton 4 flute tap extractor. Minor issue.
The good is that I’ve straightened the switch issue minus the square four pin plugs on each end which will be replaced. Once the new standoffs and plugs show up, the backside of the faceplate will be complete.
Are you going to size up all the fasteners you tapped out or keensert it?
The 5 I drilled out are now tapped for #8 threads. I’ll be ordering 4-3/8th inch hex standoffs and one at 3/4”. That’ll solve the standoff issue while keeping the sizes the same as the factory. So no keensert, just one size up.
I took the one transformer out and straightened the mount underneath so now it also sits where it’s supposed to. I think I’ll order a dynamat or similar substitute sheet to re-cut and replace the transformer pads. The original material has compressed and they both seem a little high centered. New padding will solve that completely. I’m going to buy a very long reach philips driver tomorrow to get to some of the buried screws. A few other things shifted and can easily be re-set.
I took the one transformer out and straightened the mount underneath so now it also sits where it’s supposed to. I think I’ll order a dynamat or similar substitute sheet to re-cut and replace the transformer pads. The original material has compressed and they both seem a little high centered. New padding will solve that completely. I’m going to buy a very long reach philips driver tomorrow to get to some of the buried screws. A few other things shifted and can easily be re-set.
This thing is going to turn out to be the deal of the year. This is why I love being able to fix things. Glad it's in good hands. 
Sound Dragon
Yawns and sets his couch on fire!
Great work!
A few parts ordered. New standoffs for the faceplate power switch board, the suppression cap located between the transformers (it looks like a little relay and a leg snapped when a transformer moved), a couple new Inrush suppressors as the ones in the amp have leads which look corroded and also seem really weak. Maybe it’s just the crappy pot metal, but they’re cheap and I want them to go, so gone they will be. Also—there’s a 10k 13v cap which I’ll replace with a same brand and rating item. The mains caps look fine, I’ll check with the tech on the usual procedure on this amp for their replacement. When the power board is totally removed, I’ll check all of the solder joints. It’s not a hard one to work on, it’s mostly modular, so stuff is removed in blocks and boards. Smart.
I’m going to order new rear handles in stainless for a nice contrast appearance.
I’m going to order new rear handles in stainless for a nice contrast appearance.
I love these threads! Good luck. 
restorer-john
Addicted Member
What was the story btw? A fall off a shelf?
