Onkyo A10 - Power OK, relay click OK, no sound

UPDATE:

Probably against the advice of AK, please do not shoot me :crazy:, i have gone ahead and recapped just the equaliser, preamp and protect board. Had the parts, unit sitting there so i said why not.
100% sure each cap is done perfect orientation wise and a lovely touch by onkyo is that, on the boards is that the minus and neg are marked on the solder side of the board, found no inaccuracies either. One cap at a time is how i did it.

I did not touch any of the transistors, slowly learning a lesson on this!!!!!

The i took another mad step and cleaned the preamp, equaliser, power and protect board with window cleaner (ammonia free) a super soft brush and rinsed in filtered water, followed by rinse in alcohol.
Far from perfectly clean but a hell of a lot better - unit is now sitting beside a good dehumdifier
It will sit there for a week or two anyway until i am sure everything is dry.

I have a bunch of resoldering to do, lots of ifffy looking solder joints all over the boards.
Question - Do you generally add a little bit of solder just to reflow, or soldapult and then redo the whole thing?




Once all this dries out, i am going to disassemble the rear of the unit and tackle the chassis.
Serious cleaning required. I just do not understand how it got so dirty - someone was using it as a plate for greasy fry ups, and or an ashtray for the old moroccan woodbines.

Meanwhile i am still on the search for the 250k linear dual gang balance pot.


Take the old solder off with desoldering wik clean with isopropyl alcohol and resolder is the best way to do it I've found.

While the boards are off and if your doing a full restoration replace any relays, zener diodes, fusible resistors clean and reseat any heatsinked transistors replacing mica insulators and new thermal grease, take plenty of photos label any disconnected wires, you can use a toothbrush to clean particularly dirty boards along with something like Mr muscle kitchen cleaner (the one in the orange bottle, it even smells nice) make sure it's rinsed properly after.
 
Like radio shack I suppose. A shame!
and tandy which are long gone .
radiospares are my go to but dont keep old style pots like they used to .. was a case of getting long shafts and cutting off whats not needed .
i will look through my stock to see if i have a pot to fit op.s unit if i get chance . no promises . most are old ones solid round shafts .
 
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and tandy which are long gone .
radiospares are my go to but dont keep old style pots like they used to .. was a case of getting long shafts and cutting off whats not needed .
i will look through my stock to see if i have a pot to fit op.s unit if i get chance . no promises . most are old ones solid round shafts .
You are very kind Pete, thanks, I will find one eventually so don't put yourself to any trouble
 
Dirty.
 

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Update, managed to get that pot ordered, from the akai unit as put forward by jheu02, thanks.
Had to use one of those services that set me up with american address .then its sent to me, no doubt at greater cost. Damn expensive. Let's hope it works, and unit sings immediately.
Lots of transistors on this that look to be hard to locate suitable replacements/sub's for. Power amp boards are untouched even for cleaning so in the end depending on what needs replacement, and if I have to get 4 new filter caps I'm well into this financially.

How people make money in this hobby is beyond me.
My A7090 is also now down a channel so projects are piling up.
The sa8500 I'm doing for a friend will hopefully be finished this weekend, I hope he likes it, he is in awe of this forum, he thinks its amazing how helpful and knowledgeable everyone here is.
This is audiokarma
 
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I know what you mean about projects piling up... anywho, hope the pot works for you. In the meantime, search for Kenwood Basic C2 balance pot. There's a bypass for it involving two resistors that basically completes the circuit, removing the non-functioning balance pot. You could compare the setup and traces and see if jumpering the pot gives functionality while waiting for the new (used) pot to arrive.

Edit:

Here's a thread. Post #4 shows the bypass.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/kenwood-basic-c2-balance-adjustment-pot.509349/
 
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Update, managed to get that pot ordered, from the akai unit as put forward by jheu02, thanks.
Had to use one of those services that set me up with american address .then its sent to me, no doubt at greater cost. Damn expensive. Let's hope it works, and unit sings immediately.
Lots of transistors on this that look to be hard to locate suitable replacements/sub's for. Power amp boards are untouched even for cleaning so in the end depending on what needs replacement, and if I have to get 4 new filter caps I'm well into this financially.

Good news on that pot.

R.e transistors unless there faulty or known to go bad dont replace them, absolutely no need to. I measured the big caps before deciding what to do with this amp, they both measured down on value, esr was fine, to get the amp tested and working they would be fine but wil need replacing down the road.
 
Ok Quick update - the pot finally arrived it is about 8mm longer than the original so i will use jumpers to run to the board.
I will change out those 2SA726's with some KSA992FBU's on the preamp board and then the unit will go on the DBT
Ill try get to this asap,as i am very eager to see if we have life.
 
So don't think I can make this work, new pot is much larger, won't be able to fit this and make it through front panel, no matter what orientation I put it.
 

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Wow, that is enormous compared to the other. Question: if the chassis hole was enlarged to take the threaded portion of the shaft, and if you used double hex nuts, one on the inside of the chassis, and one on the outside to be able to set the shaft length correctly, could you then run jumper wires?

Other option would then be to use resistors across the circuit ala Kenwood Basic C2 balance issue, to at least complete the circuit with fixed balance to test on the DBT. If you're keeping it for personal use, you could then just keep your eye out for an exact parts unit.
 
Nope, won't work in any way, body of unit is way way too big. I'll go visit that thread, I'll take a resistor solution now, spent way too much on that pot.
On the bright side if anyone wants that pot i got one all cleaned up and ready for use
 
OK so how do I go about this the resistor way? One leg of resistor either side of the wiper, with a single piece of wire going where wiper should be, and connected to one leg of the resistor???
Trying to wrap my head around this.
Or do I need 4x 250k ohm resistors and just put one end of each leg where the wiper goes??
 
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Unashamed bump
Some people bypass the balance pot in the other thread without using resistors.
If i use the picture as in the other thread and replicate the same with 2x 250kohm resistors and 2x jumper wires, will that work, jumper going from the wiper terminal to one leg of each resistor?
 

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Why not try and rebuild the pot? If your not sure post it over and I'll see if it could be saved? Nothing to loose with it at this point.
 
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