Yesterday I removed the connections from the .02 ceramic to the 6.3 taps(leaving it in place for restoration later), I then put in place 2, 800 ohm 20 watt cements, configured the same as the .02, held in place with an added tie point in the corner of the chassis. The bias caps had been replaced 20 years ago with 100/100 Sprague Atoms.
I then removed the wires to the center taps of the bias pots and tied them to ground.
Next I moved the wires from points 11 and 14 on the board that went to the 4 pins on the front two EL34 sockets, placing them on the front sockets which are not wired for a preamp. I left the OPT on the pins winding in place. The board had been recapped 20 years ago with 4 .1 Solens and 2 .047, 716P Orange Drops(I may change the Drops to russian oils), the Solens will stay. The Can Cap is stock and was slowly reformed last month, when I rescued them from the shelf, where I now think they were for far to long.
I believe this completes the instructions found in the first post, this is also how I had the other ST-70 wired that I was asking in a post last month trying to id the mod I had made when they were recapped. I now realize it was for the Sylvania JAN 6B4Gs, those were returned to stock triode EL-34 form.
I waited until dark so I could monitor the lights in the tubes, and slowly, with my hand near the switch, ran it up to about 60 volts over a half hour, I had detected small glimmers of life then suddenly, very dimly, the burn in tones started from the Sheffield test CD, via an M4A file on the Iphone connected directly to the inputs. I ran it on up to about 100V without any bad signs. I took it to the main system and hooked it to a pair of Marantz Imperial 6's which are sensitive, and plugged it into an RCA isolation transformer at the 106V level. The Iphone was connected to an Audioengine1 blue tooth streamer, connected to the St-70 furnished with 4 Sylvania JAN 6B4G's Triodes(these are not like the earlier 6B4G's), a Mullard 5AR4 and 2 7199's. I selected the Statler Brother's Flower's on the Wall, there is something about the opening banjo twangs that tell me something. I was not disappointed, rather a bit shocked it sounded as good as it did, about 75 or 80 percent of the Iphone volume is a comfortable listening level, when there is a pause between songs there is no hum. This morning I plugged it into a 115V outlet and played Sitting Still Within, a meditation file with a gurgling stream and bell strikes in the background I have heard 1000's of times, I do not think I have heard it better, but who knows, we can be so influenced by different factors.
I am now doubly happy I was referred to Dave's,18 page base-line-test post, because I was seriously thinking about changing the driver board not any longer. The 7199s are doing well, the ST-70 sounds great. Right now I am listening to Sirius XM 50's on 5 it has been on for about an hour, no red plates, I can hold my fingers on the side(not just the top), of the PWR TRF, the can is just warm. I have not been able to find any voltage info on the 6B4Gs, and I have not checked any, I believe things are going quiet well. I should mention that the new 6's and the caps only have a few hours of playing time, it seems it already sounds better this afternoon, but again we all know about subjectivity don't we?
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/dynaco-st-70-base-line-testing.578485/page-1 Thanks Dave.
I also thank a guy named Jim on DIY, for posting the directions I used to do this, I must have reviewed a hundred posts on several sites before I came across something simple enough for an amateur to implement.