Questions about Fisher FM-1000 Tuner.

sruddy

Super Member
Hi all, Sorry I haven't been around much lately but I just picked up an FM-1000 and am having trouble finding certain info. I found a service manual on http://www.fisherconsoles.com/ but it's for serial number other that mine. See photo. Also I can't find any user manual and don't know what the terminal tie on the back panel does. The seller had it hooked it so it works, but I think I should go thru it. Anyone know how many were made. I was under the impression from the service manuals serial numbers that there were only 250 made but my serial number ends with an A, so seems like quite a few were made, not even considering how many of the FMR-1 are out there. Here are a few photo's

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Steve; Disregard the letter on the end of the Serial. As nobody is sure what the he** it is, just forget about it. Your's is one of the 1st 500 out the door. As for the link on the back you could hook up a Field Strength meter(FSM) to the Screws (I imagine with the Jumper open). When not in use for a FSM, whether the jumper is closed or NOT is anyone's guess, except Dave. Check with him directly and ask him to comment in the thread.. Inquirng minds DEMAND Knowledge.
 
That is one gorgeous Fisher! I know you'll enjoy it immensely!!

Regarding the External Field Strength Meter connections, the terminals should normally be shorted together, or the front panel tuning meter will not read correctly. When the terminals are used, the shorting strap is disconnected, and the terminals connected to a recording device (primary intention of the connections) so that stations could monitor their signal strength over time at a glance, but an external SS meter can be used as well. Such a meter should have a DC resistance of 2000Ω, and an inductance of 200 µH.

Good luck with your FM-1000!

Dave
 
Very nice FM1000! I would be happy to copy the user/owners manual I have that came with mine if interested. Just send me a message with your email.
 
Steve; Disregard the letter on the end of the Serial. As nobody is sure what the he** it is, just forget about it. Your's is one of the 1st 500 out the door. As for the link on the back you could hook up a Field Strength meter(FSM) to the Screws (I imagine with the Jumper open). When not in use for a FSM, whether the jumper is closed or NOT is anyone's guess, except Dave. Check with him directly and ask him to comment in the thread.. Inquirng minds DEMAND Knowledge.

Hi Larry, Nice to see your still hanging out, and thanks as usual form the info! The service manual says for serial numbers 21001C-21250C. Based on your info would this mean the manual was for the 11001- 11250 units to leave the factory and why a specific manual for only 250 pieces?

That is one gorgeous Fisher! I know you'll enjoy it immensely!!

Regarding the External Field Strength Meter connections, the terminals should normally be shorted together, or the front panel tuning meter will not read correctly. When the terminals are used, the shorting strap is disconnected, and the terminals connected to a recording device (primary intention of the connections) so that stations could monitor their signal strength over time at a glance, but an external SS meter can be used as well. Such a meter should have a DC resistance of 2000Ω, and an inductance of 200 µH.

Good luck with your FM-1000!

Dave

Thanks Dave!

Very nice FM1000! I would be happy to copy the user/owners manual I have that came with mine if interested. Just send me a message with your email.

I'll pm you, Thanks very much!

I'm a little disappointed that the tuner won't fit in my FM-202-B cabinet. Here is were I was planning on putting it.

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if I ever find a cabinet with a beveled edge I'll see if it looks ok here. If not I'm afraid it may not get much use until I find an X1000 or possible two 50A amps and a preamp. The likely hood of that happening at a cost I could afford is highly unlikely but you never know! When I came across the add for the tuner I figured I would be able to get it, but after 5-6 months the owner contacted me. After many emails, he decided to accept my offer because he wanted to sell to somebody who was going tom keep it, which I definitely will! It was his fathers who he said was an audiophile and he is not. He said it was in a console with a tape player and other stuff which is long gone.
 
Hi Larry, Nice to see your still hanging out, and thanks as usual form the info! The service manual says for serial numbers 21001C-21250C. Based on your info would this mean the manual was for the 11001- 11250 units to leave the factory and why a specific manual for only 250 pieces?



Thanks Dave!



I'll pm you, Thanks very much!

I'm a little disappointed that the tuner won't fit in my FM-202-B cabinet. Here is were I was planning on putting it.

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if I ever find a cabinet with a beveled edge I'll see if it looks ok here. If not I'm afraid it may not get much use until I find an X1000 or possible two 50A amps and a preamp. The likely hood of that happening at a cost I could afford is highly unlikely but you never know! When I came across the add for the tuner I figured I would be able to get it, but after 5-6 months the owner contacted me. After many emails, he decided to accept my offer because he wanted to sell to somebody who was going tom keep it, which I definitely will! It was his fathers who he said was an audiophile and he is not. He said it was in a console with a tape player and other stuff which is long gone.

Very nice looking stereo! The Empire is a good match.

Yes the cabinet for the FM-1000 is larger than the standard cabinet that fits the X-202B or FM200B. It only fits the FM-1000 and X-1000, but the X-1000 has a different (raised) top screen so they actually fit only one model depending on the top screen. I used mine for a while with my X1000 (as they match) but now use it with a separate Fisher SA-100 amplifier and 400-CX2 preamp.

I received your message and I'll copy the manual tonight and email it to you :)
 
Owners manual sent to your email Steve!
I may have the correct service manual as well. I know there was more than one.
 
Fisher usually made their manuals for units in 10000 unit batches, but there were units manuals that covered a limited # of units (end of run units with major changes. As the FM-1000 was a semi limited unit (mainly for Broadcast replay or comparison of Broadscast quality), it appears that Fisher probably made the 1st 9900 (10001-19999) of one design and the last 250 or so with major upgrades. Dave might have a better idea on that. I would get all the manuals you can for it, and compare the manual(s) with your unit, using the one that matches the closest.
 
Very nice looking stereo! The Empire is a good match.

Yes the cabinet for the FM-1000 is larger than the standard cabinet that fits the X-202B or FM200B. It only fits the FM-1000 and X-1000, but the X-1000 has a different (raised) top screen so they actually fit only one model depending on the top screen. I used mine for a while with my X1000 (as they match) but now use it with a separate Fisher SA-100 amplifier and 400-CX2 preamp.

I'm going to put a wanted in the forum here after I update my subscription. I haven't seen any cabinets like that come thru the online places and I have been monitoring for years. Let me know if you run across any.

Owners manual sent to your email Steve!
I may have the correct service manual as well. I know there was more than one.

I received it, thanks very much. I searched forever and only found one reprint for $75 :yikes:
 
Fisher usually made their manuals for units in 10000 unit batches, but there were units manuals that covered a limited # of units (end of run units with major changes. As the FM-1000 was a semi limited unit (mainly for Broadcast replay or comparison of Broadscast quality), it appears that Fisher probably made the 1st 9900 (10001-19999) of one design and the last 250 or so with major upgrades. Dave might have a better idea on that. I would get all the manuals you can for it, and compare the manual(s) with your unit, using the one that matches the closest.

Thanks Larry, I figured you would be the one to know. I think of you as the Fisherpedia!
 
Larry is the Fisherpedia :) I'll look in storage and see if I still have any of the large Fisher cabinets. I think I still have one missing it's top screen as I had 3 extra FM1000 parts units..
 
Larry is the Fisherpedia :) I'll look in storage and see if I still have any of the large Fisher cabinets. I think I still have one missing it's top screen as I had 3 extra FM1000 parts units..

It would be amazing if you had one. Please let me know!
 
Hi all,
I just purchased a X-1000 to use with this tuner so I need to get the tuner finished. So far I have only removed the dial glass, replaced all the lamps and soldered in two 40/40/40 cans. I have discovered several of the original carbon composite resistors attached to the filter caps are out of spec. I don't know if the resistors in the power section effect the sound quality much but if they do I would like to replace them with a quieter type. This goes for the rest of the unit as well. FWIW I rebuilt two 500C receivers. One with a complete McShane kit and one with just a power section rebuild using parts from him as well. I don't know what type resistors he supplied, they are a bit ruff feeling, with a matte finish. I have emailed him to find out. The point is when comparing the two receivers the full restoration blew away the one with the power section rebuild. Lots more detail with the full kit, the other sounded way warm with a covered veiled sound. Jim doesn't make kits for the FM or X-1000. Let me know your thoughts and what type resistors your using for your rebuilds.
Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve,
For replacing 1/8 through 1/2 watt resistors, I use metal film resistors (blue colored, smooth surface usually, tolerance 1%). Very quiet. For 1-3 watts, I usually use metal oxide resistors (usually light colored with the rough finish you mentioned). These are usually 5% tolerance, but you can get tighter if it's really needed and also quiet. Over 3W, you're generally looking at wire wound power resistors, tolerance 5% or 10%.

Pay attention to the voltage across the resistors in the application and make sure that what you use can stand the delta and absolute voltage where you install it (on the data sheets). Above a certain threshold, voltage tolerance is a function of power. Also, new stock resistors can be quite a bit smaller physically than the old style carbon comp, especially metal film resistors. Look for the size of the units in the data sheet if you think the small ones will look odd.

Alternately, you can use carbon film resistors for 1/8W through around 1W. These are usually smooth tan finish and are quieter than carbon comp resistors, but perhaps not reputed to be as quiet as metal film. Finally, some folks tout using only the original carbon comp resistors for grid stopper duty due to their more non-inductive properties--one of the duties of grid resistors is to prevent oscillation. I still usually use metal film and haven't had a problem.

The rule of thumb is to size the power rating of resistors at 2x what you expect to see in the application.

Others may see it differently, but this is what I've evolved to, but I'm always interested in other experience and points of view.

Dave
 
Steve,
For replacing 1/8 through 1/2 watt resistors, I use metal film resistors (blue colored, smooth surface usually, tolerance 1%). Very quiet. For 1-3 watts, I usually use metal oxide resistors (usually light colored with the rough finish you mentioned). These are usually 5% tolerance, but you can get tighter if it's really needed and also quiet. Over 3W, you're generally looking at wire wound power resistors, tolerance 5% or 10%.

Pay attention to the voltage across the resistors in the application and make sure that what you use can stand the delta and absolute voltage where you install it (on the data sheets). Above a certain threshold, voltage tolerance is a function of power. Also, new stock resistors can be quite a bit smaller physically than the old style carbon comp, especially metal film resistors. Look for the size of the units in the data sheet if you think the small ones will look odd.

Alternately, you can use carbon film resistors for 1/8W through around 1W. These are usually smooth tan finish and are quieter than carbon comp resistors, but perhaps not reputed to be as quiet as metal film. Finally, some folks tout using only the original carbon comp resistors for grid stopper duty due to their more non-inductive properties--one of the duties of grid resistors is to prevent oscillation. I still usually use metal film and haven't had a problem.

The rule of thumb is to size the power rating of resistors at 2x what you expect to see in the application.

Others may see it differently, but this is what I've evolved to, but I'm always interested in other experience and points of view.

Dave

Thanks for that Dave. Looks like I have an assortment of the blue metal film, but none in the values I need, so off to the store. Not sure if I know how to determine the correct voltage across the resistors. If I replace the 1/2w carbon composite with 1w metal film should that give me 2x what is expected from the application? I'm buying only 300v-500v as I don't see anything higher on the schematic. I ended up buying these wirewound https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-RS02B330R0FE70 no votage rating in specs but data sheet says PxR=voltage I also got a few of the metal oxide @500v https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-CPF3330R00JKE14
 
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Voltage drop can be measured or generally determined from the schematic. You can replace like wattage with like wattage (eg. 1/2 w for 1/2 w) if you have no reason to believe that the prior resistor was undersized. Sometimes with power resistors it might be good to bump them a little. For example, there's a 1200 ohm output tube screen dropping resistor in Fisher receivers rated 7W that's better to be 10W. These are by exception.
 
I finished the power section. I also replace the safety caps, and lamps as well as a complete clean and lube. I tested the voltage coming off the new rectifier and am getting 248v spec is 222v. I'm wondering of I should knock this back??? I tested on the bench with tubes installed but no speakers or antennae attached. Last night I set it on top of my FM-200-B to give it a listen. I was expecting about the same quality as the FM-200-B however it's a lot better. It pulls in way more stations without static. The sound quality is better with very low to no noise in the background. It's most definitely the nicest sounding tuner I have ever heard. I'm wondering if my FM-200-B is working as well as it should. I put more work into the B and even had it professionally aligned. I also wanted to mention I replaced the incandescent lamps with warm white LED and like the look. It has a nice pop which makes the unit look newer. I found the jewel lamps to be too bright so I slipped a ND gel filter in front of them.

I still have a few issues to figure out. The AFC is not going off when tuning the stations. I think it worked the first time I turned the tuner without a knob. Now it's not working even if I take the knob off. I also think I have a shorted EF86 tube because if I flick it one channel will get real loud! I'm going to test it for shorts today but I purchased 2 new tubes as these didn't test the greatest. I'm super excited about this tuner and can't wait to get it paired up with the X-1000!

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